Question about Valve screw / leak

[Bilbo]

I am a relative noob here, and have a spyder xtra I bought used. I took it apart to do some of Otter's mods (took out venturi, drilled larger air holes). When I reassembled, I noticed hissing sound from the barrel. Truth is, it may have been there before, but I don't know, as I wasn't listening that closely before I did the mods.
I tried the obvious first steps outlined on Otter's pages (inspected spring, valve cup seal, etc). Still had hissing. So I figured okay, I guess I'll have to take the valve out to look at it (hadn't done that yet).
When I removed the trigger frame to get to the screw holding the valve in, I found the screw very loose, as if it hadn't been tightened down.
Now my question: could this loose screw have been causing the leak? I am trying not to take the valve out if I don't have to, as I understand (perhaps wrongly) that is the most sensitive part of the marker and I really don't want to mess with it if I don't have to.
Thanks.

[Oscum Guy]

this could have caused the leak but probably not. it sounds like you have a bad cup seal. it is really hard to tell by just looking at it. a bad one can look exactly the same as a good one and still make it leak. the thing is that the place it leaks when it is bad is that it sounds like its coming from the barrel.

the way to take your valve out is to take the eraser side of the pencil and push it out from the back and through the front. it wont damage it.

[Hob Hayward]

Lube the o-rings on the valve, make sure they seal well, and then tighten the screw in. What could be happening is air leaking past the valve o-rings and escaping through the barrel.

This is somewhat irrelevant, but I just realized I should put teflon on my valve screw, because its possible air could escape out while using the rocket valve...

[Bilbo]

I'm back.
I replaced the cup seal, and still had a leak.
Replaced o-rings on valve, still have leak.
Kinda at my wits end here. The only thing I can think is maybe the tank I'm using is too low on co2.

But I still have a question, which may be related:
When you put the valve back, what orientation does the hole in it have to be in? I don't mean the "big hole points forward" orientation. I mean the hole that runs cross-sectionally through the valve. The way I have it now, that hole is lined up with the hole for the valve retention screw. So right now if I have the screw out, I look through the hole in the lower tube, and through the valve as well.

Is this the way it should be? Seems like this way there is a better chance of air leaking around the threads of the retention screw. I checked otter's page and don't see any mention of this, so I'm guessing it doesn't matter (?)

Thanks again

[pb34]

Yes that is the correct way the valve should be. When you screw in your air, try cocking your bolt and see if the leak stops. That's how mine is, I'm not sure if it is a bad thing but it seems fine when cocked.

[Bilbo]

Already tried that. When it isn't cocked, the leak is really loud. But even once I do cock it, still have a slight hissing.

[Pwgsx]

with the tank in and the gun cocked, apply pressure to the cocking knob and push forward.......does the leak stop??

[Bilbo]

It doesn't stop, but it does seem to diminish, although I may be imagining things. I've been listening to the barrel so much lately, I'd swear I hear the ocean in there sometimes.

[Pwgsx]

try shooting the gun for multiple shots..........your cup seal may not be seated good enough for a tight seal, especially if its new, it took mine a bit of time to not leak. Make sure its on tight on the valve pin and that the valve spring is in there correctly.

[killerpinecone]

most likely cup seal, always is with spyders