No block spyder pump!

[QAZ123]

Millenium body spyder pump!


More pic's and info at the link!

I like it! It could use some touching up with better part's but otherwise me likey!

JB.

[DRAGON]

Interesting but what opens the valve dwell? I mean the bolt needs to be pulled back which pulls the striker back to engauge the sear. The bolt then needs to be pushed forward to chamber the ball and at the same time disengauge the striker. Once the trigger is pulled the sear disengauges the striker. It should thrust forward to hit the valve pin to open it for a short duration. Unless the pump/bolt is pulled back immediately, the spring tension of the striker will keep it forward and let pressure escape from the valve. I don't get it -

[QAZ123]

I copied and pasted your question's on scp maybe they will get answered cause I have no clue I just thought it looked pretty!

JB.

[tigerdave714]

I knew a few people were working on these over at SCP. This is the first one Ive seen completed though. Its a shame he had to hack up the BLM body (those are my favorite Spyder bodies) but it does look promising. I would have used a newer body like a Compact or a Victor, and installed a 12gram changer instead... but still, I can't knock the style and work that went into this one. Nicely done.

(Maybe if we get enough of these out there, Kingman will start making pumps again... or at least re-release the Hammer)

[phatphil]

That looks sweet sans the green va.

[Sgt Wolverine]

I just finished modding my Compact to a pump. The force of the main spring thrusts the striker into the valve pin, but there is not enough force from the spring to keep the striker pushing the valve pin. So it only opens briefly. I went a little further than most with my valve though, Instead of building a new pin without a flat spot I machined a slot in the front of the valve to hold an "o" ring then machined the stock valve pin completely round. I also did the otter low pressure valve mod to keep more air moving to the bolt. With the "o" ring and the valve mod I have absolutely no movement of the striker when the marker is fired.

[adrianm1188]

sick!!!

have you shot it yet?

[ethan82000]

hey guys,
imo. i dont think the bolt and striker are conected. the striker has a cocking nob on the side of the bottom tube and it will fire whenever the trigger is pulled whether there is a paintball in the chamber or not. then the pump is just to chamber the ball. it doesnt look that complicated to make.
Ethan

[Sgt Wolverine]

Well, the way I've made mine the striker is still connected to the bolt with the original pin, however, I cut the pin hole in the striker so the bolt can be moved forward while the striker is engaged on the sear. By not cutting the rear of the striker when the bolt is cocked back to feed a ball the bolt pin pushes the striker back to engage the sear. So it basicly works like any standard pump. By the mod I did to the valve, no air gets to the striker to recock it like it would if it were still semi auto.

It works great.

[leed]

Originally Posted by DRAGON

Interesting but what opens the valve dwell? I mean the bolt needs to be pulled back which pulls the striker back to engauge the sear. The bolt then needs to be pushed forward to chamber the ball and at the same time disengauge the striker. Once the trigger is pulled the sear disengauges the striker. It should thrust forward to hit the valve pin to open it for a short duration. Unless the pump/bolt is pulled back immediately, the spring tension of the striker will keep it forward and let pressure escape from the valve. I don't get it -

I realize this is VERY old, but theres a pin/screw sticking up from the striker that catches the back of the bolt when you pull the pumparm back. That's basically how it works. It's the same idea of cutting the slot in the striker, except much less work.