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#1
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Well I lost the cocking knob again. This time it was the one that sidekick made for me. Please understand it happened after prolly 3-4 casses of paint and lasted much longer than the original so great job sidekick. But on to the real reason for this post. The cocking knob actually broke the back of my acs bolt. Anyone else have this happen? If I knew how to post pics i would try and get a good pic of the crack so if someone wants to pm me and teach me how to post a pic or jsut post it for me go ahead amd pm away.
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Dragun T-1-clamping feedneck,Torp hpr,Micro-Rock LPR. Pilot ACS-Low-Blow bolt,cocker feedneck,T-1 Hpr, turbo valve,polished DragunFly-T-1 LPR,T-1 HPR Dragunfire-TES Hpr,Polished Rebel-Half-backed(by me) E99 Xraider Black LCD Fasta Feedback |
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#2
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I have a stock replacement if you're interested.
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Think about it: Click Me * My Feedback http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/resou...tspertank.html -------- These colors will never run.
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#3
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actually sandman i wanted to ask you a question about your bandit bolt.
have you or do you know anyone that has messed with their low-blow bolts? or should i stick with the standard bandit bolt that you used in your lp spyder
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Dragun T-1-clamping feedneck,Torp hpr,Micro-Rock LPR. Pilot ACS-Low-Blow bolt,cocker feedneck,T-1 Hpr, turbo valve,polished DragunFly-T-1 LPR,T-1 HPR Dragunfire-TES Hpr,Polished Rebel-Half-backed(by me) E99 Xraider Black LCD Fasta Feedback |
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#4
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i had my cocking knob lost just after 2-3 hoppers. and it was the first time i used the gun. i need a new one now
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#5
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I had great luck with the Bandit low pressure bolt. The stock acs bolt worked, but I couldn't drop pressures as low as I wanted and it fluctuated a lot in velocity. I remember someone here trying to modify their stock acs bolt by milling in o-ring grooves and it didn't work. I'd say if you are going LP get a good replacement bolt. I've never had a chop with the bandit (when my hopper was turned on-lol) bolt, only barrel breaks; which would have happened anyway.
Good luck.
__________________
Think about it: Click Me * My Feedback http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/resou...tspertank.html -------- These colors will never run.
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#6
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Sorry to hear about the problem Halucin8. I'm still on my first replacement knob. But I don't play as much as it seems you do. I looked at my ACS bolt and there seems to be a large amount of free play between the delrin body and the aluminum piece. This may be the culprit that caused the damage. This marker has such a heavy recoil, that with too much free play that it could be slamming aluminum body against the delrin body. I'm going to drag mine into work and measure the two and see what is exactly the amount of free play they have. I'm sure that there is wear involved also. My ejection problem didn't start until after couple 1000 rounds had been put through my marker and this sounds about the same for most folks.
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If you make it idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot. Feedback: http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=6645 |
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#7
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Go rear-cocking, its not as hard as you would think to do to your stock or aftermarket bolt (like the bandit bolt that is threaded for the set screw), if your lucky enough to get the set-screw to come out (if not than drill it out) find something that matches the threads and doesn't stick out to far (last thing you want is it smacking your mask and ruining your lense) and loc-tite (thread tape works but I'd recommend loc-tite) it in place. If you want, any of you guys can send me your ACS bolts to me and I'd do it for ya for free. You handle shipping and cocking rod if you want something different than what you see in the attached picture. I just enjoy tinkering and I am starting to run out of things to do to my marker and most of my friends.
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Never go Bear hunting without a sandwich...sandwich: someone you can out run or don't mind shooting ![]() Angel 1 Non-SOM Apr 07 Ripper 3 Non-SOM Apr 08 Family Photo My Feedback |
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#8
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actually i was thinking of going to a new bolt and i msged i think it was alamocity bolts about what rear cocking bolt would work with the pilot and they said i would need to buy the shutter bolt. does anyone know for sure the shutter will work?
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Dragun T-1-clamping feedneck,Torp hpr,Micro-Rock LPR. Pilot ACS-Low-Blow bolt,cocker feedneck,T-1 Hpr, turbo valve,polished DragunFly-T-1 LPR,T-1 HPR Dragunfire-TES Hpr,Polished Rebel-Half-backed(by me) E99 Xraider Black LCD Fasta Feedback |
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#9
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I took my bolt apart and measured the parts; the delrin bodies ID is .507" and the aluminum bodies OD is .495". With a difference of .012", almost 1/64 free play. That seem like a lot of slop.
__________________
If you make it idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot. Feedback: http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=6645 |
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#10
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Could someone please PM me a little more information on this cocking rod issue? I recently picked up a Pilot ACS and may be able to find a solution to your problems.
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X-Customs - President Quality Spyder Innovation X-Customs NV - The Pinnacle Spyder Trigger X-Customs Hall FX Kit - "Genius" Magnetic Trigger Switch System X-Customs SwiX - 50g Solderless Microswitch |
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