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#1
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Seems a lot of Pilot ACS owners have been having problem with the cocking knob either ejecting or snapping off. Mine started ejecting also. So I put a longer spring behind the detent ball in the bolt. This solved the problem of ejecting but created a new problem. I managed to bend the cocking bolt, because there was no free play. I noticed the top of my frame had signs of the knob hitting the frame. So I milled the top of the frame at the slot. No more problems hitting the frame, no more ejected knob. Just to be on the safe side I also made a knob out of SS that was 1/8" taller than the stock.
I'll post pics as soon as I get them small enough to post.
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If you make it idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot. Feedback: http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=6645 Last edited by sidekick : 09-27-2006 at 11:34 AM. |
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#2
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It's nice having a machine shop at your disposal to do this kind of stuff. I didn't feel the need to knurl the knob, so I left it smooth.
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If you make it idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot. Feedback: http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=6645 |
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#3
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Nice! You could probally sell those knobs to some of the people on this forum.
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#4
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all i did to stop it coming out is use a screw driver and tighten the scres at the mack of the bolt.
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My 3 life mottos 1) Buy in bulk and save 2) Cutting in line gets you nowhere, except to the front of the line 3) If something has gone wrong. Its easy to blame yourself, but its EVEN eaiser to blame someone else. |
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#5
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I might be interested in 2 of them if your interested in making them. Myself and 2 other guys use pilots and 2 of us have lost the cocking knob already.
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Dragun T-1-clamping feedneck,Torp hpr,Micro-Rock LPR. Pilot ACS-Low-Blow bolt,cocker feedneck,T-1 Hpr, turbo valve,polished DragunFly-T-1 LPR,T-1 HPR Dragunfire-TES Hpr,Polished Rebel-Half-backed(by me) E99 Xraider Black LCD Fasta Feedback |
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#6
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If he doesn't want to make them you can still get them here:
http://www.sundragonpps.com/catalog/...47/2940653.htm
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Think about it: Click Me * My Feedback http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/resou...tspertank.html -------- These colors will never run.
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#7
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I'll try to make up a few this weekend.
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If you make it idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot. Feedback: http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=6645 Last edited by sidekick : 09-30-2006 at 03:40 PM. |
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#8
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soo where would i get a bigger spring for the ball detent, and i havent tried it yet, but do you think if i just heat up the screw on the bolt since its lock-tite and then tighten it for the spring action ball thing to go out farther make the cocking pin stay in? and i am interested in one of your pins if you make another.. and is that extra length to help the rubbing on the top rail which might cause some loosening of the pin?
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#9
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The longer spring created a new problem. Because the spring is coil bound the ball did not move at all. While this kept the pin in place, it did not allow the pin to move at all and caused it to bend.
I did not have to heat my bolt to remove the set screw. Tightening down on the screw will only load the spring up a bit more, it will not make the detent ball go any futher into the hole. Because the hole is not a tapped through hole, the threads only go part of the way in and that is as far as you can tighten the set screw. The taller cocking pin prevents the knob from hitting the frame when it travels back. The frame does not need to be milled with the taller pin. If you are seeing silver scratches on top of the rail at the back of the slot, then your bolt pin knob is hitting your frame. IMO this is what is causing the pin to pop out. I have tested it with my gun in semi, burst and auto. I have set my trigger up to bounce and held it on for quit a few cycle, dry firing of course, and have yet to pop the pin out. There is no more marring to my frame. Check your PM.
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If you make it idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot. Feedback: http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=6645 |
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#10
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how can i get one of these and how much?
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