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#1
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![]() After i fire my gun and the bolt doesnt chop the pb, isnt it suppose to recock its self? Or is the bolt not broken in?
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#2
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![]() Your marker should ALWAYS recock, weather the ACS bolt had to do its job or not...
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Angels, Timmys, ICD Bushy, Pimp, and lots of Spyders Old Farts Club
Member #12 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() "Your marker cannot harm me...I'm the Juggernaut!!" KUSA Feedback +56/-0 New PBN Feedback +20/-0 Old PBN Feedback +92/-0 |
#3
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![]() Quote:
You may also have this problem if your bolt is not broken in. The easiest way to do this is, stick a swab in your feed tube and fire the gun around 500 times. I know this sounds weird but the spring is too tight and it really does work. Please read the threads, there is alot of useful information there.
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Sometimes you get the bear and sometimes you just gotta run!! Spyder MR2 J&J 14" Ceramic Barrel or Apex Barrel Halo B w/ Rip Drive & Victory Board Reflex Optic Sensor Sight Dye Sticky 3 Grips Trinity 6 Chamber Expansion Module Low Blow Bolt |
#4
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![]() Thanks jarhead after some searching i found this thread from Dragon. Ill try that since school starts tommarow for me
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"Why so serious?" |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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__________________
Angels, Timmys, ICD Bushy, Pimp, and lots of Spyders Old Farts Club
Member #12 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() "Your marker cannot harm me...I'm the Juggernaut!!" KUSA Feedback +56/-0 New PBN Feedback +20/-0 Old PBN Feedback +92/-0 |
#6
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![]() "There are several possible causes for your marker not recocking but none of them have to do with the ACS bolt".
Ahh.... actually vwjimmy, his marker failing to recock could have everything to do with his ACS bolt. When the bolt is new the internal bolt spring is too stiff to allow the striker to travel far forword enough to engage the valve pin if the bolt is stopped at the feed port by a ball that has not fully dropped into the breech. If the striker does not engage the valve pin there is no air discharge to blow the bolt back to the cocked position. Breaking in the internal bolt spring "weakens" the spring allowing it to fully compress when the bolt is suddenly stopped at the feed port by a misfeed. The bolt spring must compress enough to allow the striker to move forword far enough to hit the valve pin to cycle the bolt back to the cocked position. That is why it's called a "blow back" marker. In orher words, the main spring pushing the striker must be able to overcome the ACS springs' "resistence to compress" when the bolt is lodged against a missfeed at the feed port. Therefore, a stronger main spring pushing the striker forword allows the striker to "reach" the valve pin activating a gas discharge which in turn blows the striker and bolt back to the cocked position. That is why "breaking in" the ACS spring (making it weaker, compared to the main spring) greatly reduces and sometimes eliminates the "uncocking" problem. I have proven this to be true with my MR2. At first I had the same uncocking problem you hear so much about in the forums. I did the bolt breakin procedure by first leaving the ACS spring completly compressed for about 4 days. was not much better. Then I manually cycled the bolt spring about 2000 times. It would now accasionally recock if I would stop (jam) the bolt at about 2/3eds into the feed port opening. I then installed the TRINITY RED main spring behind the striker, screwed in the velocity screw until the bolt would recock even with the top bolt stopped (jammed) at the begining of the feed port opening! If you are wondering about the velocity with this set up because of the heavy main spring, it shoots about 270 -280 fps. Right on the money. That is how I got my MR2 to work as designed. The trick to the proper function of the ACS bolt lies in the relitive spring pressures of the MAIN SPRING compared to that of the ACS spring. SOFTEN UP THE ACS SPRING.....BEEF UP THE MAIN SPRING. IT WORKS! Last edited by jimbo001 : 03-27-2008 at 05:48 PM. |
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