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#11
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Pressing on
Never argue with an idiot; they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience." ~ Anonymous |
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#12
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lol i found that you can do the entire mod with 2 tools. a hammer, and one of those small flat tipped scrwedrivers. use the screwdriver to smack the pins out, then use that same screwdriver to pop the switch open, and to bend the tabs ^^. i also found that a hose clamp bent in half makes a great pvc saw (oh the things you learn when you really need to fix things)
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#13
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Great info !!
Took your lead on going into switch, and along the way looked a tad deeper into the switches mechanics .... The way in which the tension spring attaches to the top of moving contact really pretensions it to go up .... You are bending the top right tab downward slightly to get closer to the bottom right grounding tab, and making the effort to get contact to snap down less. All Good What I found was if you removed the grounding tab (center of switch) and bend it down very slightly making it snug with case, you can bring the top tap down lower yet making the TOTAL travel of switch from trip to reset much shorter. But keep the spring tension on left tab damn near stock. This made a VERY crisp switch with SUPER low travel distance to operate. My modified switch when placed on a scale was @55 grams, but even there is still very positive in it's action. I use it with a custom Delrin trigger thats very light weight. This has not yet been an issue getting rebound trigger activation. Scott
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2K4 Green Spyder Imagine. Palmer Pursuit Shop 2K RF BLAZER. Sheridan PGP pump. Classic Auto Mag. CCM S-5 Pump. Paintball ... Most fun you can have without taking off your pants ! |
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#14
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wow, ive been looking for this thread for weeks. i was expecting it in the ESP section...never thought to look in here until last night. and otter doesnt have it on his site.
again!
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8/23/03 OS KUSA #10898
Spyder to pump conversion tutorial! Project LP Reposted! Sales Thread Feedback Quote:
- from Ray Bradbury's Something Wicked this Way Comes |
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#15
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hmm. interesting. think i might try it
![]() Thanks, Sonix |
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#16
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this does make a big improvement on my trigger
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PBAZ Video of all of Kingman's Spyders as of 2008 VS2:Stock, red body kit, 14" 32* Whisper barrel, Fasta Victor 2:halfbacked, ESP Frame T- Board, VS2 Barrel, Magna Valve, ND Valve Pin, Drilled VA, Polished Striker, Bandit 2 O-ring Delrin Bolt, Custom Trigger, Rex Expansion Chamber, ND Feedneck, T-board |
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#17
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i did this on my VS1 switch. wow, what a difference. it makes a much quicker contact than before. more sensitive. adjusted my trigger so it was close to the frame and Boo-yah. Good job on the tutorial.!!
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#18
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Hi I have a little problem. It all went fine untill one of the last steps, i went to put the cover back on to the switch, one side went on esaily but the side by the switch had to be slightly forced on. When I looked at it there was a small gap, then when I pressed the switch down it just sunk in with out a click or returning so I pressed it again it just sunk in more until it was level with the sides. So I took off the cover and checked everything put it back on and basiclly did all of that about four times!
. So if someone could help me out that would be great. Thanks |
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#19
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did you bend the plastic??
One more thing you can do to is flip the purple button 180*.. |
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