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#1
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Ok, I have an E-99 Avant and I've been upgrading it for a while. I have everything needed to go low pressure. ( Stabilizer, drilled VA, delrin bolt, spring kit, barrel, air system, rocket valve, polished internals)
I've just purchased a Maddman Rocket valve and it hasn't changed my gun's performance at all, possibly making it worse. No matter what I do, I can't get the pressure lower than 400 without mad burping. I'm thinking I don't have the valve set up properly. My question is: can anyone give me a CLEAR way to set this valve up (I haven't found straight directions anywhere) I've tried two methods: 1: Start with the lowest possible cocking pressure and then continue to screw in the SRP until you have the velocity you want (lowest pressure was 410 psi) 2: Lower the SRP to match the length of the stock valve and THEN find lowest pressure from there. (this made it even worse, burping at 420ish) I've tried the medium and soft main springs as well. I'm just frustrated that I've put so much time and money into this project as others have, and I'm not getting any results. If anyone can help me out, I'd greatly appreciate it; until then, I'll be playing with the cocker.
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- Prospekt ![]() I wish I had a karnivor.
Last edited by Prospekt : 05-14-2006 at 01:06 PM. |
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#2
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Did you use the directions on the madman website?
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05 Imagine Palmer stabilizer Maddman Rocket valve Trinity Front block IPS Sunbear Bolt Dark Horizon titanium striker Green/silver VSC CCI Phantom Red/Black PMR SE |
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#3
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I've tried, but they're extremely unclear and ambiguous. They support both methods I tried. Anyone know of a way that worked for them?
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- Prospekt ![]() I wish I had a karnivor.
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#4
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drill out your VA more ... or get a CIP assault block .. your VA's not high flowing enough ... and there's only one way you can put in the valve so your fine on that part ...
Make sure there's nothing obstructing the airflow ... clean it well ect. Get rid of the derlin bolt .. .unless it has o-rings on it ... sunbear, aka lightning ... hell stock bolt would bet better ... light main, hard valve ... try this stuff first .. i'll go on after you finish |
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#5
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Tried the stock bolt..no difference. (Lol tried to pull the venturi out and bent the needlenose pliers in the act)
Everything is very clean - I fully disassemble and clean after every time I play. Is it safe to drill the VA more than 3/16''? I've got it the same width as otter reccomends. I'm pretty disappointed with the whole thing and I'd rather not have to buy any more parts for it.
__________________
- Prospekt ![]() I wish I had a karnivor.
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#6
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#7
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it's the delrin bolt...ditch it in favor of (any) one with O-rings on it and dish mod your striker
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#8
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KUSA Old School Alumni #4939Registered: 6/26/02 Posts: 14,000+ before the old mothership went down Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius while feeling alone apposed to smiling adversaries.... |
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#9
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Cool, I'll give these a shot and let you know how it goes.
The whole dishing the striker thing won't change much though, sure it'll let me crank the valve on max settings, but I tried them on max and there were no results.
__________________
- Prospekt ![]() I wish I had a karnivor.
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#10
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I just re-read your post. The SRP is to set the valve dwell...and set the spring tension. It should be open as much as the stock valve's was, perhaps a little more to let more air in (so the stem would be a little longer and the SRP unscrewed a bit). Compressing the spring stack will make it harder to open farther.
Dishing the front of the striker allows it to 'cup' the air and assist in forcing it back. Did you plug the bottom tube's exhaust hole that bleeds the air to the frame? ![]() Post a clear set of pics of your VA drilling so I can see it. Perhaps it needs to be opened more but I need to see. You might have to do this: ![]()
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