LILC where?

[WhatThaSmurf]

Originally Posted by yamaha cow

so and i dont care the most accurate part of your barrel is the first 2-3 inches

WRONG! The most important part for accuracy is the last 2 to 4 inches, but that comes after the 8 to 10 inch it takes for the paintball to get up to speed. So a short barrel is louder, less efficient, and less accurate.

[new_Faction64]

Originally Posted by yamaha cow

can i ask you what your getting and from where.

I got most of it from ActionVillage.com

[yamaha cow]

well that is not wat i heard from DYE, EMPIRE,and EVIL barrel makers

[Hob Hayward]

They're trying to sell you their barrel kits, the first several inches do make an impact on accuracy, but only for a paint to barrel match, Read up at www.ottersccustoms.com He's got info telling why those barrels will help you but also explains why 12-14" is the optimal length of barrel.

Edit: http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrels.html
Thats the barrel FAQ, and explains everything you want to know.

[yamaha cow]

yes i know i would never buy a 16 inch barrel it is farrly useless but i like barrel kits because i dont have to worry about what kind of paintballs i buy.

[lilc]

Originally Posted by DRAGON

May I just interject that an expansion chamber is useless when using an HPA tank. It's only function is to give C02 time to expand before it gets to the valve. They are also useless if you're not using C02 in cold weather. So......if you're not using C02 or not using the C02 in cold weather, there's no rational reason to add/purchase an expansion chamber to your MR1 -

I just got the EC because I was looking for a cheap gas-thru grip and it fit the bill. Since I first changed my setup from stock I found out 1) the stock bottom line and ASA can be fit to an ESP frame with only a $15 bottom line adapetr and 2) a Pro-Team Intruder foregrip puts the tank in a really good position off the vertical adapter for Dagger-style "front" play and allows you to completely delete any hose/macroline, drop, and ASA.

Originally Posted by DRAGON

A 4" barrel will make your marker extremely inefficient due to the fact that the ball doesn't have time enough to reach its full velocity potential in a barrel that short. This can only be resolved by using more pressure to push the ball quicker to reach that velocity. Did I mention very loud and inaccurate as well? -

I carry more air in a 70/4500 tank than I need for the paint I pack during a typical short game, so gas efficiency is a rather secondary consideration for me. So too is loudness. Unlike a woodball sniper who reconceals after a one- or two-shot ambush over and over, a Dagger player is usually using stealth only to outflank his enemy; once he opens up, he's going to be shooting until either he or the op-for gets eliminated. As for accuracy, while diminished it is sufficient to the task for the ranges at which I like to engage. What I get from a short barrel is good gun handling in tight quarters. I can hunker down behind the smallest cover, run unembumbered, squeeze through tight spaces, and bring my gun to bear quickly over and around my bunker for lightning snapshots. Loud schmoud. If I could use a 3" barrel (like on my Tippy) I would...

[yamaha cow]

what is between your foregrip and the gun?

[yamaha cow]

how do you connect that size forgrip into taht small hole
and i am not trying to be funny

[lilc]

Originally Posted by yamaha cow

how do you connect that size forgrip into taht small hole
and i am not trying to be funny

It's a Northwest Spyder vertical adapter that takes the standard threaded fitting and adapts it to an ASA. Lapco makes a similar product, and both have a curved upper recepticle that matches the contour of the lower part of the Spyder receiver. I think the NW is prettier, but the Lapco is easier to keep tight w/o Loc-Tite.

[yamaha cow]

do u have a link to 1 of those sites i cant find either of them.