Woodsball and Scenario tips

[druid]

It's true that there are diehard speedballers...and that loathe woodsball. If you have nothing usefull to contribute then by all means...go to another thread without posting here.

Camo
*Try to get away from the old school Woodland BDU. Everyone knows that they really don't help because of the "blotchy" colors. Tigerstripe is a better choice, Digital Camo is the latest design. It can be had, but can also be hard to get a hold-of.
*Ghillie Suits work very well...but must match the terrain.

EDIT 01Nov06: I played The Battle of Berlin on Saturday the 28th (at Skirmish, PA) and got to experience German "Flecktarn" camo (there are 4 different spellings of that) at it's best. I got to run with Team PennDragon who use it exclusively and I'll tell you what...I'm very impressed with the way it blends into forest/Fall folliage/ground imperfections and colors. It's a "blotchy" camo that really does break up your outline very well. I may just pick up a set from Sportsman's Guide for cheap...if I can get a set that fit.

Tactics-Sniper
*Flanking positions work best. Most people will go for the "high" ground-side. Either be there first or take the "low" ground.
*Pick positions that give concealment on 3 sides and cover on at least 2. Concealment is thick brush that hides you but breachable and cover is something impenetrable--rock, tree, etc. Have a rearward area so you can retreat as necessary.
*When you see your first "victim"...hold your urge and wait. There may be more a few yards behind them. If they are "singles" then wait for them to pass you and get them in the back.

EDIT 01Nov06: *Try to find a low profile hopper or lower your feedneck...or warpfeed your marker. Maneuvering in brush and reloading when **** hits the fan are difficult if you put yourself into a tight position and get surrounded.

Silencers-ARE ILLEGAL TO MAKE, POSESS OR USE WITHOUT THE PROPER CERTIFICATE FROM THE ATF. CONTACT THE ATF FOR THE PROPER AND LEGAL DEFINITIONS, AS WELL AS ANY REQUEST FORM.

Tactics-Forward positions/Recon
*Stay 4-8 steps to the left or right of any path. Groups/squads - Never cross a path at the same time...one or two at a time.
*"Skirmish" Lines don't work as well as you think. Instead, use a "V", or Inverted "^" formation called a "wedge."
*"Leapfrog" forward and in retreat. This allows you to "cover" then next team mate forward and minimalize casualties if you need to retreat.

Supression fire
*Allows team members to advance or retreat.
*Keeps heads (and markers) down while someone tosses a paint grenade or loads a mortar.
*can burn a ton of paint and air. Keep an eye on your tank gauge (if you have one...or get one installed with one of those "tank collars") so you don't run out in the middle of a fight.

Equipment
*Radios-Nice...but anyone with one can tune into you too. Skip the VOX feature and use the PTT button...no one wants to hear you breathing heavy. Firefox Throat mics are nice too.
*Paint grenades-IMO are a waste of money but can be usefull for large-scale scenarios. At many fields, you need them to take out tanks and vehicles because "marker-fire" isn't counted.
*Paint Land mines-are cool but a pain to set up...and they get stolen...or lost, or forgotten about. Save yer cash.
*Boots-are almost a must. Ankle support, mud, sticks, rocks on the forest floor...all make for some hazards. Skip the Cordura Nylon style and opt for an all-leather model. They are hotter, but give better overall performance. Waterproof them with "Sno*Seal" waterproofing paste and/or get GoreTex booties.
*Hydration-I use a Hydrastorm and love it.
*Optics-your choices are; Day or Night Vision Rifle Scope, Red Dot, Laser and H.A.L.O.
---Riflescopes are kind of useless because they normally have an eye-relief of about 3/4" to 1.5" and your mask lens is that far (or more) from your eyes. They can keep with a MilSim look but that's it. If you must have a scope, opt for a pistol scope. The eye relief is greater...to about 30" or so because they are designed to be utilized at arm's length.
---Red Dots are more paintball friendly. A 30mm is plenty but a 54mm gives a wider field view. They don't give any real magnification and they don't project a beam outside the body of the tube body, rather it shines a red light onto the front lense whre it stops. This is nice because a projected beam is detectable in the dark, in fog and in any mist or smoke.
---Laser sights should be AVOIDED AT ALL COSTS!! Ever read the sticker on your CD player? What's it say about lasers? Care to burn out someones eyes? DON'T USE THEM!!!

[Sandman_Bravo]

Nice thread Druid. I like your camo input. Although I have traditional camo, my vest is digital.
http://www.pbreview.com/products/rev...&page=1#149864
I find vests to be great for woodsball. You can carry pods, radio, water (mine has a hydration pouch), tools, grenades, remote tank, etc comfortably.

[rodeoshooter]

I wear a tree-bark camo that works well in our terrain. You don't see it around much, but I bought it at a garage sale!

[RomeNYRR]

I'll be sure to put some of your tips to use. good thread

[newkid]

nice thread!

[tater_salad]

I just use my hunting clothes which is all "Mossy Oak" camo and blends in perfect here. I agree with Sandman too vests are very helpful in woodsball.

[Gee Tee]

I used to play in a vest back in our pump tourney days. It is a good way to carry your pots and makes it a lot easier to reload in a hurry. The downsides are it makes also your profile more bulky from the front, making it harder to tuck in to cover or crawl without getting snagged. It also presents a lot more hard surfaces for paint to break on and reduces the chances of bouncers.

A lot of combat style utility vests available in the UK are supplied in black or other plain dark colours, which when worn over camoflage spoils the effectiveness of it. I now play in an elasticated 3 pot NXe rear facing pack for all my games. It gives me plenty of ammo (3 x 150) and much better manouverabily.

I've played in various camo patterns over the years. My first set was a US woodland jacket and trouser combo, followed by a couple of sets of Real Tree (mossy oak) which worked well. I did find the Real Tree pattern faded badly in the wash though. The whole team had DIY suits made for a 10 man series we played in in the late 90's, based on an Indian camo patten but using our own colours. It lasted well as the cloth we had the design printed on was good quality, and I still wear it sometimes now nearly 10 years on.

[Mistic67]

I use a mix of authentic military uniforms for camo, including BDUs, ACUs, & MARPAT.

I'm used to playing with small teams so I usually have small Vees going out. I usually tell them to stay about 8-10 yards apart.

I also have a crazy guy on my team that I use as a decoy. Problem is, he gets too excited and gives away his purpose by running sneslessly back & forth.

Another tactic I use is having a squad advance on the enemy while I sneak around behind them. By the time they see me, they're exposed. Works sometimes at the flagpost.

[Hossy]

you say silencers are illegal, and they are.

but what if you do a mod that makes the gun alot less noisey(if there is one), is that considerd a silencer?

[druid]

Hossy...please read...

http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthre...encers+illegal