![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
i will be posting this in both mr sections since this research relates to both markers. if the mods think it's inappropriate please close one but link them together somehow if you can even do that ha ha. thanks
just wondering how much you dislike the existing feedneck on the new mr's from kingman? i plan to get one of these in the very near future myself. the ones i have seen with the plastic elbow look a bit high and awkward. somewhat similar to the spyder's with plastic adapters for the vert feeds. the ccm lowrise feedneck on my imagine has made a big difference in the profile of my gin and totally keeps the hopper from moving in the least bit. would there be any interest in a quality all aluminum feedneck for mr owners that would lower the profile and prevent the hopper from swiveling? since the configuration to mill such a piece would be a bit more difficult, would you be willing to pay a bit more than the ones offered for the vert feed spyder's? another thing; since there are very little aftermarket parts available for the mr series spyder's, what types of add-ons would you like to see produced? by add-ons i mean improvement/functional ups and ups for meerly cosmetic milsim purposes. thanks in advance for any feedback you may provide on this topic.......
__________________
www.sundragonpps.com or www.sundragonpb.com spyder magnetic triggers, performance striker, best & solderless micro-switches largest selection of stock spyder replacement parts you’ll find on the www all the spyder upgrade parts you’ll ever want or need spyder electronics, tadao boards and upgrade chips reputable spyder modification & general tech info |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
i think something like the Rufus Dawg centre feed kit for the tippmanns would be nice for speedball setups, and a 45 degree, clamping feedneck to lower the hopper. in my opinion, the most desirable ubgrade for the MR1 would be an anti-chop bolt that allows you to still use the stock, as well as the quick strip cocking knob(which no bolt currently on the market can do). there's lots of things that would be good, and i encourage anyone else to voice their opinion. it's a well made marker, but it leaves a lot to be desired.
|
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
For uprated internals, I like a custom ringless Delrin bolt and lightened striker (Alamo City), an aftermarket valve (not LP though!), and a spring kit (Shocktech). This lets you tune up all the reciprocating parts and help your gun achieve smooth, high cyclic rates reliably. ![]() And don't forget an e-loader! Some people don't like the Halo TSA, but mine works more reliably than my Halo B, and it's rated for 15BPS, a good match for the ESP. And it's cheap ($50-$60)! Last edited by lilc : 04-20-2006 at 07:12 PM. |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
SupermanDan do you have a link to the Rufus Dawg centre feed kit that you speak of? if i'm not mistaken the mr1 bolts are the same as the older shorty style bolts. there are none of those available in the acs style from kingman. what do tou mean by quick strip cocking knob? doesn't the bolt pin simply pull out to release the bolt? thanks for your feedback, well taken.
lilc you're mentioning your existing setup while i'm asking for suggestions of new products that don't exist to improve the mr's. thanks anyways.
__________________
www.sundragonpps.com or www.sundragonpb.com spyder magnetic triggers, performance striker, best & solderless micro-switches largest selection of stock spyder replacement parts you’ll find on the www all the spyder upgrade parts you’ll ever want or need spyder electronics, tadao boards and upgrade chips reputable spyder modification & general tech info |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
you know how the cocking knob/striker pin comes out of the bolt if you want to disassemble the gun? since the MR1 does that, the slot cut in the body for the bolt/striker pin doesn't go all the way to the back, so a regular bolt wouldn't work(regular spyders have a slit all the way back so the bolt and striker come out as one piece). i think i know how to mod an existing rear cocking bolt to work, but i don't have any of the tools to do it. and i think you're right about the older bolt style. i think a bolt for the spyder compact might work, but i'm not sure.
and as for the Rufus Dawg kit, here's a link to their site: http://rufusdawg.com/Merchant2/merch...y_Code=MAR-ACC the centre feed kit puts the feed neck on top of the gun, instead of to the side. this eliminates the need for a bent elbow, allowing the balls to feed faster and easier. for a speedball setup, this would be really good. of course, with the MR1, you would need to do some milling to make it work. |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yeah, that'd be impossible to do for a buyable upgrade, but why would one need to, I'm pretty sure most people buy the MR1/2 because they want milsim...
Sundragon, you might an MR1 or 2 for yourself to see what works, probably easier to do it that way... I think your idea of a sidefeed clamp feedneck is good. Perhaps if the kingman ACS doesn't fir, you could make one. I doubt that theres copyright, because numerous companies make them, and the jam bolt was the first.
__________________
05 Imagine Palmer stabilizer Maddman Rocket valve Trinity Front block IPS Sunbear Bolt Dark Horizon titanium striker Green/silver VSC CCI Phantom Red/Black PMR SE |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ok I will probably chop balls all day tomorrow after posting this but has anyone had a problem with there MR1 chopping balls? I have put over 3K through mine with out a single broken ball. If you want to make something how a bout a stock with out a top rail and a built in velocity adjuster.
|
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
lilc is that a pro team expansion chambers
|
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|