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#1
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Hey guys, new to the forum, and while I have been playing paintball more then once, I'm a total dunce when it come to maintaning or replacing parts on a marker. Every time I hook up CO2 to my MR2, I hear air hiss out the barrel. its not loud or coming out in large amounts, but its still leaking quite a bit. I tried replacing the cup seal and the stricker O- ring like the intructions say to do, and have even oiled up my marker, but the air still leaks from the barrel. Is there a way to fix this?
if nobody knows, is there anyplace where somebody can fix it for me? any help would mean a lot. ![]() |
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#2
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If you changed the cup seal and oiled it and it still leaks chances are you have a nick or bur on the valve where the cup seal sits. Does it hiss when the marker is cocked? Any proshop can fix it.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division. - Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements) -UCSF Armored Division Commander Armored Units -Deep insertion APC -Killer "B" Battle Tank -Troop Transport APC (almost done) -Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works) -Order of Lenin (1st) -Skyline Sergeant -YGP Rep! -Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF) |
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#3
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yes, it hisses when its cocked, but not as loudley
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#4
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ok, i thinks its the valve body. how do I remove it? i can see it when i removed the cup seal, but dont know how to get it out
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#5
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Try this first: cock it, put two drops of oil in the ASA, and gas it up fire it a few times (4-5) without a barrel or hopper in a SAFE direction. See if your leak is gone.
__________________
SOC (+41, -0) | PBN (+12, -0) | New PBN (+20, -0) URT... Ultimate Resource Thread! The [OFFICIAL] Manual Thread! BigRed Photography Quote:
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#6
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Sounds like the valve body to me.
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#7
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I use a special compound (tho I still dont know the name) that is ment for the perpose of removing improfections on the valve. It's an oily sand you place on a round glass and do figure 8's with the valve. I would just take it to your local proshop, they will fix it up in short order.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division. - Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements) -UCSF Armored Division Commander Armored Units -Deep insertion APC -Killer "B" Battle Tank -Troop Transport APC (almost done) -Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works) -Order of Lenin (1st) -Skyline Sergeant -YGP Rep! -Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF) |
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#8
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To remove the valve, you take out the brass screw at the base of the gun. Once that is removed, take out the striker and the front cap. You should be able to push it out with something long. Just be sure not to damage it or scratch the inside of the lower tube. Pay attention to the way it comes out because that's the way you'll need to put it back. Also, be sure to use Dow on the valve o-rings and not "gun oil."
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