spyder fenix wont fire

[TheDarkShadow]

it regulates the air pressure going into the marker, that may be part of the problem if its not adjusted correctly

[Talon]

Heres a online manual, everything you will ever need to know.
http://www.spyder.tv/section/support...yder_fenix.pdf

[titanbaseball13]

ok the manual shows how to adjust the regulator and it says the recommended setting is 500-600 psi. How do i know what the regulator is actually set on to see if i need to adjust it or not?

[Talon]

Put in a Co2 or HPA tank and find out your regulator pressure and adjust from there, 500 is abit to high I think. What I would do Is start off at is 250 pressure an work my way up. I've never owned a Fenix before though so not sure on the regulator pressure.

[titanbaseball13]

right now when i put in a co2 or hpa tank, the needle on the gauge is at the maximum it can be and still be in the green section. could my problem be caused by the pressure being too high? it seems like the marker would still recock if the pressure was too high, it just doesnt seem to me like that is the problem.

[Talon]

Depends on what the needle is reading on the gauge. If the pressure is to high in the marker what can happens is it can blow O-rings and/or, the air will not be stopped by the O-rings causing the bolt not recocking. Try turning the pressure in the Regulator down so it reads 1/3-1/2 of the gauge.

[bigred76]

The high pressure may cause the marker to not recock, or even fire. Think about it this way, the front spring is pushing with so much force on the cupseal to keep the valve closed (usually about 2-5lbs). When you pressurize the marker, it has all that air flow to keep it closed as well, about 400psi. Volume is about... eh, I'll pull 2in^3 out of my ass. That means that on top of the 2-5lb spring, it has an additional 5.5lbs of force pushing on it [(400psi/144)*2in^3]. The main (striker) spring then has to open it, and if you aren't careful with how much pressure you're giving the valve then the striker won't be able to open the valve all the way. If it doesn't open all the way, then it doesn't have enough air coming out the rear to recock the marker fully, and symptoms can vary somewhere between full-on jackhammering and nothing.

I would turn the regulator completely off (keep in mind that you need to clear the pressure after the regulator is adjusted down to get a proper reading), then raise it until it works properly with the velocity adjuster (on the back of the bottom tube) screwed halfway in, or even a little less if desired. The way to turn off the regulator is to turn the set screw counter-clockwise until it is about flush with the surface of the regulator. Attach the air source and slowly turn the set screw in, until it sits at about 300psi. Wearing your paintball specific mask, cock the marker and take one dry fire shot. Continue this process, raising it 50psi at a time, until it works. Then turn the regulator up another 25psi, and ensure that it works consistently. When you get to the field, adjust your velocity adjuster to match the field's limit. If your velocity is too high, unscrew the velocity adjuster. Too low, screw it in.

In cold temperatures, I would definitely recommend an HPA tank over a CO2 tank. The HPA is not as susceptible to low temperatures as CO2 is by a long shot.

[titanbaseball13]

ok thanks for the explanation big red i think i understand how it works now. ill try out what you said this weekend and let you guys know if i still have any problems.