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Old 11-07-2010, 06:37 AM
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Default Electronic Trigger How-To and FAQ Thread

Microswitch Installation

True Response Trigger Mod
True Response Trigger Mod - Original Thread
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:37 AM
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Default Re: Electronic Trigger How-To and FAQ Thread

Everybody’s been asking how to install these little 50 gram microswitches so I suppose rather than repetitiously explaining it I would make a tutorial.

First having the correct tools always helps so here are the tools that will come in handy to complete the job.

1) Remove the grips, battery and don’t forget about the nuts under the grips so you don’t lose them.

2) Remove the plug connector from the electronic board. You can just use a small flathead precision screwdriver and put it between the plug connector and board receptacle.

3) Punch the pin that holds the trigger in out from the right side of the trigger frame.

4) Punch the microswitch pins(2) from the trigger frame.

5) Pull the microswitch through the front of the trigger frame along with the wires and connector. Be careful not to damage the connector when pulling it through the trigger frame.

6) Unsolder the old switch from the two wires going to the connector. After removed, heat the wire end and remove as much of the old solder as possible. You can either heat it and tap the wire on a hard surface quickly or heat it and use a piece of cloth to quickly wipe the solder off.

7) Solder the two wires back onto the new switch, black to the bottom and brown to the middle. No wires go to the top post unless there is an r/t mod done to your e-frame. Make sure that the button of the switch is at the bottom end where the black wire is soldered.

8) Touch the battery posts to the battery connector and turn the e-frame switch to the ‘on’ position and depress the microswitch button to be sure everything is working properly before proceeding to the next step

9) Pull the wires and plug connector back through the trigger frame being careful not to damage the connector when doing so.

10) Put the microswitch back in place making sure that the button is towards the bottom. Install the (2) pins through the trigger frame and microswitch holes. Tap them back into the trigger frame with a punch.

11) Install the plug connector back into the board receptacle after being sure that all of the wires are in their proper routing orientation.

12) I have 2 small squares if mylar(thin plastic) that I put between the trigger frame and trigger to reduce any wobble or side to side play.

Put the trigger back in and put the trigger pin back in the e-frame then tap it back in with a punch from the left side. You can choose weather if you do or don't want to put the spring back in.

13) Push the wires of the harnesses back into place then reinstall the battery, nuts and grips back onto the trigger frame making sure none of the wires are between the grips and trigger frame and/or battery.

Article originator - DRAGON

Microswitches can be found online at many paintball retailers as well as Radio Shack.

*Just a warning. Any attempts to modify any marker in any fashion will void warranty. Liability of personal injury and property damage is not the mistake of the originator of articles.
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  #3  
Old 11-07-2010, 06:41 AM
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Default Re: Electronic Trigger How-To and FAQ Thread

OK guys, I moded my trigger frame last night and put a switch on it tonight and took some pics. I went to Radio Shack and got a small on/off switch(slide switch - #275-409). It's a small 3 prong dual switch which will serve my single needs. I used some wire from an old telephone cord. It's perfect because it's a very small gauge wire and it fit in the small holes for the connectors of the switch. I got lazy and just used the cutout window for the ESP e-frame rather than cut a small hole in the solid one for the slide switch. I use a Hogue grip sleeve that covers this area so I'm not concerned about paint getting in the switch. I'm going to make this as simple as possible and try not to drag it out too much. Alright....here we go:

First I removed the trigger frame, then the grip. I started to scribe the locations for the holes but decided it would be easier to just tape the switch on the window to hold it in place while I drilled it. It was somewhat difficult getting it in the right spot because the holes were very close to the edge of the cutout in the plastic window. It would have been much easier to position and drill them if I used the solid window but everything worked out.

I'm a fastener ho so I save about every screw, nut and bolt that almost gets thrown away in my house so I went through the abundance if extra's and found two small screws that would hold the switch in place. After drilling the two 5/16" holes I screwed the two screws in the holes to tap them before installing the switch.

After installing the switch the screws were a bit long so I cut them off with a Dremel and cutting disk. I had to have a small rag w/water on it to cool it down so it wouldn't melt the plastic too much when doing this....it got very hot and I had to do it slowly. You could just use a file if you don't have a Dremel to do this if needed. After this I filed the rough edges off the ends of the screws and inserted the window in the grip.

Next I made two wires 5" long and stripped 3/4" off of both ends of each and twisted the ends so they would fit through the very small holes of the switch connectors. I actually opened the holes a little turning my ex-acto #11 blade point in them. I then put the black wire through the hole in the top prong of the micro-switch and twisted it on. It was somewhat difficult because of the limited space to work in. then I twisted the red wire around the center prong of the micro-switch. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to help get it as tight as possible so there would be a decent connection. It would have been easier to solder them on but I didn't want it to be a perminent connection on either end in case I wanted to remove it.

Before connecting the other ends I removed the battery. Next I twisted the black wire to the outside prong on the switch that was already in the window and grip. Then twisted the red wire to the center prong on the switch. After that I put some cloth electrical tape over the ends because they were very close and didn't want them to touch and short the connection out. Next I put a couple of pieces of electrical tape 1/3rd of the length of the wires to hold them together.

After that I organized the wires in the frame, put the battery back in and tested it. Then I carefully put the grip back on the trigger frame. I actually did a lot of planning before I started this because you need to put the switch in just the right place or it's not going to fit. The spot that I put it was the only possible place that I could put that particular switch. There are prolly all kinds of different deviations of this as far as switches, ect but I wasn't going to run around too much looking for parts and what not. I think the worse part of the whole thing was putting the grip sleeve back on but hopefully I won't need to do that for a while. I can just curl back the sleeve to access the switch.

It sounds pretty good testing it and I'll run some paint through it some time today for the final test. It seems very easy to max the rof out just clicking it and prolly will take a little time getting used to it.

Originator of article - DRAGON

*Just a warning. Any attempts to modify any marker in any fashion will void warranty. Liability of personal injury and property damage is not the mistake of the originator of articles.
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