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#1
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![]() Do you guys lubricate the delrin stock bolt that comes with the marker directions say it is not need. I was playing last weekend and I noticed my ball velocity was going all over the place it would shoot normal and then about every 5 shoots I would get a couple of rounds that would barely come out of the gun under 200 fps on a crono. I took it apart and found there was some scuffing on the delring bolt where the charge bar lines up with the vertical pin on the top of the bolt. Seems like it is being slowed down for some reason? I don't have the bolt over tightened that holds the chargeing bar on to the marker. Seems to do it on any fire mode.
I know your all going to say get a custom bolt but I don't have the cash right now. Any ideas would be great It really sucks when you hit someone and the ball wont break. Mike |
#2
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![]() Do not lube/oil delrin bolts. If there are orings, then lube them but not the bolt. Scuffing will happen period. Only thing you can do is deal with it. I would look in the upper bore just to make sure there are no burrs.
Are you using Co2 or HPA? Co2 pressure will change with each shot, worse at higher rates of fire unless you let it stabilize. |
#3
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![]() I am useing co2 but it is really drastic and doesn't matter if it is full auto, burst, or semi auto just does it like every three shots. First four times I played with it I never had any problems just the last time out.
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#4
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![]() Check your striker oring.
The delrin your bolt is made from is a thermoplastic polymer that has lubricant embedded into it. It will wear down, as all plastic on metal things tend to do, but it will function just like a brand new one. It should not be the issue.
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#5
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![]() Any ideas on why I am getting so much velocity variations remember first 3 times I played with it no issue.
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#7
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__________________
SOC (+41, -0) | PBN (+12, -0) | New PBN (+20, -0) URT... Ultimate Resource Thread! The [OFFICIAL] Manual Thread! BigRed Photography Quote:
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#8
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![]() checked and lubed it with synthetic grease. I use super lube o rings look fine
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#9
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![]() That could be the prob. Spyder's do not like grease, synthetic or not. Grease creates drag, STBB's don't like drag. When using Co2, it's intensified. The cold nature of Co2 tends to make grease even more cakey than normal, hence more drag -
Remove all the grease from all the parts and even from the upper and lower tubes, then use oil only. Gold Cup, PMI, any inexpensive paintball specific oil will do - If you're using Co2, get an antisiphon tube installed in the tank. You''ll have less liquid Co2 in your MR2, less velocity fluxuations and even better efficiency -
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![]() Registered: 6/26/02 Posts: 14,000+ before the old mothership went down Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius while feeling alone apposed to smiling adversaries.... |
#10
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![]() If you cant get ahold of any paintball oil goto Walmart & buy some RemOil. Its used on real guns & Ive used it on Spyders since 2001 without problems.
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