How to get the best out of my RSX

[power_hitter18]

Hey fellow paintball fanatics,

I have just bought the '08 Spyder RSX and so far I am very impressed, this marker is truly of tournament level and for just less than a $400.00 price tag .

What I want to know is how to get the best out of this marker. Right now I am trying to figure out whether to go with a J&J Ceramic barrel or a CP Barrel upgrade. And what size barrel do you feel is best (12",14",16",20").

I also am looking at getting a Odyssey Halo V35 Rip Drive Hopper, but I am wondering if I'm getting too much hopper for the gun, meaning a cheaper hopper would do just as well.

I have been hearing about a chip that you can but on the Tadeo board, but I have no idea what this chip adds performance wise and where to find it.

This gun will be brought into tournaments, so I need to get maximum potential out of this gun. Any input will be great.

[bigred76]

Welcome to the forums!

Yeah, the RSX is truly the top of the line marker from Spyder, you cannot top it when it comes to out of the box performance on a stacked-tube blowback (STBB). Might want to check out the bright red URT link in my signature under this post, it's got a BUNCH of information. For the time being, and to make this post worth your reading, here are my suggestions for your upgrade questions:

14" CP 1 Piece barrel in a .690 or .692 bore. They're $30, and the performance is great for the price. Anything more expensive and I'd recommend a DYE Ultralight or a Proto 2 Piece barrel.

Empire Reloader B. It's sound activated VS the Halo B's eye activation system, which I find to be finicky. The two are exactly the same except for the source of activation, and the Reloader B comes stock with a RIP drive.

The Tadao VS chip is a software upgrade, and I personally don't feel you need it as the stock Tadao board is just fine. If you really want to upgrade to it (and gain additional modes, finer increments for settings, etc), then it can be purchased from any Tadao dealer or their website here: http://www.tadaotechnologies.com/pro...3&idproduct=52

Enjoy!

[power_hitter18]

Thank you very much, BigRed.

But your not done yet....

I am currently most interested in buying the DYE Ultralight Spyder barrel in clear or black, but I can only find the back part of the barrel and not the front and back together. Hopefully you know a site that sells both in one package.

Also, I currently use the standard .68 caliber paintballs and I found a brand that is rather good and I am found of. So do I need to get the exact same bore size that I use for the size of my paintballs? How does this work and what bore to caliber ratio, if not the same, would give the better shot?

Thanks in advance!

[bigred76]

Technically speaking.... a Barrel Kit is what you want for precise accuracy, and you must go through the case and see what size bore it is, pick out the right bore for the barrel, etc etc etc. I just find it's a pain in the ass for slightly better accuracy and a teensy bit better efficiency. What I recommended and still do is something called an "over-bore." If the bore is large, the only thing that can go wrong is a barrel break, which is nothing compared to hitting the one ball in the entire case that's larger bore than the rest, causing the entire marker to jam.

As far as I know... only a couple eBay stores have them together. You just have to find a store with both the back and the front and order at the same time, I guess.

[power_hitter18]

Ahhhh....

So if I use .68 caliber paintballs, but have a .69 bore it will be just as effective?

Is there a big enough difference between the Dye Ultralight Spyder barrel than the J&J Full Tilt Ceramic Spyder barrel? If there isn't, I may just grab the J&J Full Tilt because it is a one shot deal.

[bigred76]

Well, I love my Ultralites. I have an Ultralite, a Proto 2 Piece (which is the same darned thing, same honing, just different milling on the outside), Matchstick kit, Freak kit, UN1Tech mini-kit, 32* Ice Cold, Proto 1 Piece... basically a bunch of them. The ones I use mainly are the Ultralite and Matchstick, because they offer performance without questions, and have been the industry standard since they came out. If you want to save money, a J&J is a decent alternative, but if you ever decide that it isn't enough, you're out just that much you could have spent on a nice barrel. And yeah, that's coming from experience with buying crappy stuff to begin with and then getting better stuff.

EDIT: Forgot your other question, almost! In paintball, bores are rounded to the thousandth when talking about barrels. The .68 calibre is just a general throw-out, it means almost nothing except that it's in the same size range. When dealing with gelatin based projectiles, that thousandth of an inch matters a whole lot if it's too small for the ball! As such... the smallest bore I have kickin' around is a .684, but there is smaller. The largest bore size I have is a .692, as I couldn't get my hands on a .694 when I was looking. The bore sizes go by 2's (.684, .686, and so on), either on the even numbers or the odd depending on what brand you're looking at. What paint are you using that you like? I might be able to pick out a better bore size depending on what it is.

[power_hitter18]

Sounds like I'm going with the DYE Ultralight Spyder barrel than!!!

It's never fun to buy an upgrade, just to upgrade again later.

Do you have a specific bore and barrel length that is most effective in your mind with the DYE Barrel?

[bigred76]

Bore depends on the paint, length is always 14" on average. I normally use a .690 bore barrel. I'm a big guy and sometimes use a 16" depending on the field as sometimes it's hard to get behind smaller small bunkers.

[TheDarkShadow]

back to the hopper, halo is a good loader, but people like reloaders better, and they are about $20-$30 cheaper too

[Griff]

For the hopper Halo-B works great I have had mine for 6 or so years the only problem I have had is with the eyes, Get an Empire with a sound activeted board.but they work great and are built well.