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  #1  
Old 03-06-2006, 12:10 PM
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cov boy cov boy is offline
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What is a "T-Switch? I was just looking at upgrading my t-board from Scenario Dreams and that the t-switch is a must have upgrade "well so it says"

can sum1 help?


And it comes in 25g or 50g? whats that all about?

sorry but if i dont ask then ill never know.

Also what are "Break Beam eyes" And "bounce beam eyes"
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2006, 12:50 PM
ooglieboogliebob ooglieboogliebob is offline
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Default Re: T-switch

go here it'll answer all of your questions ... don't be lazy ... read about it

Last edited by ooglieboogliebob : 03-06-2006 at 01:24 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2006, 12:52 PM
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Default Re: T-switch

didnt help

but thanks

any1 else?
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2006, 01:04 PM
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colonel_moo colonel_moo is offline
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Default Re: T-switch

its probably just a lighter switch, im not sure how different switches can be besides being lighter. id get the 50 gram if you are going to get a new one. 25 grams is too light IMO, and just causes needless bounce.

break beam eyes is when there is a laser going across your breech, and when that laserbeam is broken, the board recognizes that a ball is in the breech. bounce beam, or reflective, is when there is a laser bouncing off the ball, then back to the "eye" where the board then recognizes that there is a ball in the breech. sorry for the poor definitions, but i dont know what else there is to it.

by the way, the "edit" feature is your friend.
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2006, 01:34 PM
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Default Re: T-switch

lol

thanks
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:19 PM
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thechubbss12 thechubbss12 is offline
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Default Re: T-switch

Yea maybe you know this or maybe not... to put in eyes you have to drill for the eyes or eye.
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2006, 03:39 PM
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Default Re: T-switch

I did read something on here about that
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:24 PM
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Default Re: T-switch

electro's use a microswitch behind the trigger to close (complete) a circuit...that's what makes the marker fire. by replacing the switch with a lighter one, allows the user to walk the trigger faster because the grams=the resistance needed to close the switch. A stock switch is around 250 grams...going to 50 grams means this switch is 1/5th as hard to close. A T-Switch is just a lighter switch with wire leads on it that you have to wire into the old clip to mount to the board...and it is compatable with the stock boards on spyders.

A 25 gram switch is way to light...either for a stock trigger or even an aftermarker because if you decide to tourney, it won't pass the "bunp" test (smack the back of the gun to see if it fires)...get the 50 if you get one at all.

GOING HERE ...not google...will help you better than all of us can....

eyes have been explained above...that a better set of answers?

Last edited by druid : 03-06-2006 at 07:31 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2006, 12:05 AM
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Default Re: T-switch

druid-

Thats the sort of help i was looking for, thank you.
so on a 05 electra rocking trigger i should just keep it stock?
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:47 AM
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Default Re: T-switch

the Rocking Trigger is an entirely different animal. First, there are 2 switches and they are each smaller than the TSwitch. Second, they are already (I believe) lightened to like 75 grams or so.

Your finger speed isn't necessarily the problem...the frame is. You have to spread your 2 fingers too far to comfortably walk the trigger. I suggest selling or trading away your Rocking frame and getting an ESP/Sprint frame and TBoarding it...and TSwitch it at the same time. Then replace any stock trigger (usually a chrome-plated brass) with a lighter, faster one like a Sweetspot, Shocktech, NDZ or similar type trigger. Since aftermarket triggers are comparable in weight (within their classifications - aluminum or delrin), it's really only a matter of choosing the design or style that you like. The "rollerball" or "bearing" triggers are reported upon equally....some say they are the shizzzzz, some say the bearings make no difference. You'll have to decide who you believe...a 14 year-old with parents+money=attitude...or those of us that are older (check my sig...LOL) and tend to be more analytical or at least fair in our observations. This isn't to say that there aren't crappy triggers out there, though...and consider their construction in your purchase. Delrin/nylon/nylatron=plastic......plastic breaks...especially where they put 'backslop' adjusting screws. Personally, I suggest an aluminum trigger. You can magnet-mod them as per Otter's site and they are great.
The whole rocking trigger thing is a marketing scheme...even the best players can't pull 30 bps...that's why they created cheater boards to begin with. The TBoard is really all you'll ever need. With the correct settings (which you will have to configure for you and your marker), semiauto+fast fingers=better than burst/full auto. Trust me. I TBoarded my Esprit and I outshot a ZBoarded egg...on SEMI. BTW...I'm TBoarding my Ion...what does THAT tell you? TBoards in ESP frames outperform the Rocking trigger, simply because of the trigger design.
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