..the best my E-MR1 can be with Spyder parts?...

[malJohann]

Hi, I'm new to posting on the forum, although I've been lurking for quite a while. Let me start by saying that you guys have a unique setup going here (like with the Therapy threads) and manage to stay on topic quite well. In today's flame/spam-littered online communities that's no small feat. Well done.

I'm busy with a project (in my signature) and need to know a couple of things regarding upgrading my base marker. I called the project a "black box" for two reasons, and no, one of them is not because it's going to look like a black box.

Reason number one is because absolutely no details will be released before it's complete apart from the paintball related parts, tools used and raw materials listed below. Reason number two is because the base marker will be enclosed with a shroud in such a manner that you won't be able to tell what lies beneath except for maybe the trigger frame (although that will likely be customised too).

Now onto a question I have, which in itself has lot's of right answers. What is the best my E-MR1 can be with Spyder parts? I don't mind milling, drilling and having at it with a hammer to customise it. What's important to me is that it must have high BPS capability and should not chop at all.

I know I don't have the ideal Spyder for this to begin with, since the MR2 with would have been spot-on, but the E-MR1 is what I have to work with since I don't have enough money to go out and buy a new marker just for the project, although I may switch the base marker later on for a better one.

It's important to note that the stock will be left off and that I'm willing to go full mechanical or to swap the electronics in pursuit of higher BPS and anti-chop if it's cost effective.

[irishwarrior]

Get some eyes, a new board or trigger frame, regulator, make it LP, timmy detents, new bolt (check-out the ACS), etc...

[malJohann]

Originally Posted by irishwarrior

Get some eyes, a new board or trigger frame, regulator, make it LP, timmy detents, new bolt (check-out the ACS), etc...

You're basically describing an upped MR2 with , no?

[irishwarrior]

Pretty much, but those things are all ROF boosters. Check out getting a high end board (Yakuza or Tadao, maybe) and trigger frame.

[meric]

Originally Posted by irishwarrior

Get some eyes, a new board or trigger frame, regulator, make it LP, timmy detents, new bolt (check-out the ACS), etc...

Hold on, wait, you can get eyes for an e-mr1?

How and where?

[meric]

Originally Posted by malJohann

Hi, I'm new to posting on the forum, although I've been lurking for quite a while. Let me start by saying that you guys have a unique setup going here (like with the Therapy threads) and manage to stay on topic quite well. In today's flame/spam-littered online communities that's no small feat. Well done.

I'm busy with a project (in my signature) and need to know a couple of things regarding upgrading my base marker. I called the project a "black box" for two reasons, and no, one of them is not because it's going to look like a black box.

Reason number one is because absolutely no details will be released before it's complete apart from the paintball related parts, tools used and raw materials listed below. Reason number two is because the base marker will be enclosed with a shroud in such a manner that you won't be able to tell what lies beneath except for maybe the trigger frame (although that will likely be customised too).

Now onto a question I have, which in itself has lot's of right answers. What is the best my E-MR1 can be with Spyder parts? I don't mind milling, drilling and having at it with a hammer to customise it. What's important to me is that it must have high BPS capability and should not chop at all.

I know I don't have the ideal Spyder for this to begin with, since the MR2 with would have been spot-on, but the E-MR1 is what I have to work with since I don't have enough money to go out and buy a new marker just for the project, although I may switch the base marker later on for a better one.

It's important to note that the stock will be left off and that I'm willing to go full mechanical or to swap the electronics in pursuit of higher BPS and anti-chop if it's cost effective.

Check out my signature, That's my E-MR1 setup. From a BPS perspective, the additions I've made to my gun is really everything you can do (aside from installing eyes, which I think is impossible but I could be wrong)

So, you're question: How does it work? Well, unfortunately it's a bit hit or miss on full auto. The thing works like a champ on most occasions, and other times it'll spit paint like a super soaker (about 4-5 balls a hopper). It's probably a matter of type of pant I've been using, considering that I use rather expensive paint that's brittle and breaks easy. Other times I use harder shelled cheap paint and don't get the chop, which I assume might be why I get varied results when on full-auto.

3 Shot Burst works fantastic. Dominates.

Semi works fantastic as well. Really fast. Seriously, it's a matter how you play your game, but it's been pretty rare that I ever needed to use full-auto - most of the time it's just when I want to **** around.

Also, since your new here, it's important to point out that many people here can be helpful morons and feed you conflicting information, fail to write a proper sentence, and generally act like they know what they're talking about when they don't. At all. So take the advice with a grain of salt.

Cheers.

[malJohann]

Originally Posted by irishwarrior

Pretty much, but those things are all ROF boosters. Check out getting a high end board (Yakuza or Tadao, maybe) and trigger frame.

Which high-end board supports eyes? Would those boards (or even the standard MR2 with board) fit inside my E-MR1 trigger frame? Is there any reason why I'd want ACS and eyes?

Originally Posted by meric

Hold on, wait, you can get eyes for an e-mr1?

How and where?

I'd think that by putting in a board which supports eyes, then machining the relevant part(s) of your E-MR1 to fit the eyes, you'd be able to make it work.

Originally Posted by meric

So, you're question: How does it work? Well, unfortunately it's a bit hit or miss on full auto. The thing works like a champ on most occasions, and other times it'll spit paint like a super soaker (about 4-5 balls a hopper).

My setup really needs to be 100% reliable ITO not chopping paint. In addition I'd like to achieve a true BPS of 25. This is going to be an assault setup.

[irishwarrior]

Originally Posted by malJohann

Which high-end board supports eyes? Would those boards (or even the standard MR2 with board) fit inside my E-MR1 trigger frame? Is there any reason why I'd want ACS and eyes?

I think that the virtue board would be good. I don't know if it would fit in the E-MR1 frame but I'm pretty sure some people have put it in their MR2's. And the reason I mentioned the ACS bolt is just in case you wanted more protection from chopping

I'd think that by putting in a board which supports eyes, then machining the relevant part(s) of your E-MR1 to fit the eyes, you'd be able to make it work.

That's pretty much what you'd have to do.


My setup really needs to be 100% reliable ITO not chopping paint. In addition I'd like to achieve a true BPS of 25. This is going to be an assault setup.

For 100% reliability, you'll need at least a reg, or two (one on marker, one on tank) and possibly go LP.

Hope that helps!