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#1
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Well I was looking at OtterSC's trigger mods, and I can't figure out how to do the front and rear slack thing. I was thinking of a better way to do and I thought, what if I just take a small metal rod, put it on the back and front of the trigger so that it is just enough so it stops the trigger when it hits the switch.
If anyone has done this could they tell me what they used, and where they got it? I was going to go to the hardware store tomorrow. Here is a picture for an example. This is a different trigger but the same concept. ![]() The red is the little rod.
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"Lord, I believe; help my unbelief!" -Mark 9:24 |
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#2
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Are you doing this for a mechanical trigger or electronic trigger? I did the trigger mod on my mechanical Shutter trigger frame and it worked great. I could take pictures for you if you like.
I could see it getting in the way, but it would work. I would try to find something that is threaded so you can adjust it.
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#3
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Ya its on my completely stock TL-R so it is mechanical. I am planning on buying a new spring, Home Depot didn't have one, and every other store I went to was closed. I was thinking of drilling a hole on each side of the frame and getting something threaded to use. Pictures would be great!
Also, just to make sure, the spring that I get is the one that the actual trigger pushes down on right?
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"Lord, I believe; help my unbelief!" -Mark 9:24 |
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#4
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when you have the frame off the marker body, look inside the top of the frame. Do you see the tom of the trigger? Drill and add a screw to that top section. When the body is mounted on the frame, it pushes against the screw head, forcing the trigger back. The higher the screw is, the further back it will go. Screw it in further and the more "front" it will be.
As for the back-travel, add a grub screw to the lower-middle of the trigger. Remove the trigger and drill a small hole straight through it. Thread in the grub screw (allen head set screw) so that it sticks out the back of the trigger and touches the frame. Look at Ion triggers to see what I mean...
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#5
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I'll get some pictures of mine up in a bit so you can see exactly how I did it. Its actually a lot easier than you would think and the pull on it is awesome.
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#6
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Thank you shunut.
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"Lord, I believe; help my unbelief!" -Mark 9:24 |
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#7
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also, i would try getting a maddman spring kit, because it comes with a sear spring, which cuts your trigger resistance almost in half and creates more slack, meaning less travel is needed. i have one, and compared to my buddy's MR1 in front of me, it makes a world of a difference.
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8/23/03 OS KUSA #10898
Spyder to pump conversion tutorial! Project LP Reposted! Sales Thread Feedback Quote:
- from Ray Bradbury's Something Wicked this Way Comes |
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#8
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What is the price on the spring kit?
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"Lord, I believe; help my unbelief!" -Mark 9:24 |
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#9
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got mine for 12
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Proudly Surrendering people at 25 yrds
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#10
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yeah, i got mine locally for $12. i think they're like $8 online.
__________________
8/23/03 OS KUSA #10898
Spyder to pump conversion tutorial! Project LP Reposted! Sales Thread Feedback Quote:
- from Ray Bradbury's Something Wicked this Way Comes |
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