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  #1  
Old 01-10-2008, 05:33 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Default How to thread

Well the first post I guess is a PVC landmine that I make, this is how I do it.

This particular mine uses 12grm co2 cylenders and is a pressure activated mine.


The ST Cookbook


ST I

Materials- 2, 2” end caps 3.00$ each
1, 2” coupler .59 cents
1, 3/4 electrical pvc pipe 5.00$ for 10’
1, 11/16 dowel 2.50$
1, pvc cement 5.00
1, 2” screw (Your local hardware store will probably just give it to you)
1, ½ nail (Again your hardware store will probably give you one)
1, bic pen (you all have one of those laying around)

Total cost=16.10$ APROX. CND
NOTE: Keep in mind that lots of the materials such as the pvc cement, dowel and electrical pvc pipe you can use a number of times because they are only available in lengths so it is actually a lot cheaper once you start making additional mines.

Tools- Drill Bits ¾ 7/8 and 5/16
Drill
Screw driver bit (Same head as the screw you picked)


Directions

Unscrew both end caps, use the body of the end caps and cover them in PVC cement, place them into the coupler and leave for drying.
Because you unscrewed the caps you can work on them in the mean time.

Cut a piece of the electrical PVC about 3”, 3 1/2 long. Take your dowel and cut a piece just under 2” about 1 7/8 long. After you do that take your screw and drill it right down the center of the dowel, be sure to get it directly in the center and drill strait or your discharge pin wont be lined up.
Cut 1 piece of electrical PVC about ½ long, you will use all these soon.

Now take one of the caps that you unscrewed before gluing the ends to the coupler and drill a hole ¾ big directly in the center part of the cap, it will be centered in the square part that is used to tighten the lids. After that is complete flip the lid over and ream the inside of that square our to 7/8. Take the ½ inch piece of electrical PVC that you cut and glue it in the 7/8 hole. This will give your discharge pin more stability. After it dries take your dowel and pound the 1/2 nail close to the bottom of it, wear your screw point is, but on the side. This will enable the pin so that it doesn’t fly out once the air is discharged. Now slip it in through the bottom of the lid you were just working on with the discharge pin down.
Take your 5/16 drill bit and make a hole in that same cape beside the square that is used for tightening. Take your pen and cut it to a length that falls just short of the overall length of your mine, The overall length will depend on how hard you pushed the ends onto the coupler. After you cut it place it in the 5/16 hole and PVC cement around it. That cap is done.

Take the opposite side and ream out the center of that square on the inside of the lid with your 7/8 bit. Now place in the electrical PVC you cut approximately 3” long and PVC cement it good, this will hold your 12 gram CO2. Now you can screw it all together once it is thoroughly dried.

Directions of use

Now that it is made unscrew the top cap, the one that holds the discharge pin, and place a CO2 cartridge in the 7/8 electrical PVC with the puncture cap up.
Fill your paint solution up to the top of the CO2 and replace the top cap. The mine is now ready for use, simply burry it and when a player steps on the discharge pin, dowel with screw through it, the pressure will cause the screw to puncture the CO2 and set of the mine.


NOTES: This is a little tip, if you let your bic pen stick through the top of your mine you can make your own burst tubs to place on there. This will create a bang when the player steps on it and will duplicate the sound of a real landmine.
It should also be noted to that this style of mine can also use smoke powder, or its cheep counterpart, flour. This will create a large burst of powder rather than paint.







ST I Burst Tubes

Materials- ¼ Surgical tube 7.00$ for 5’
Haywire

Tools-Needle nose pliers

Directions

Take your surgical tubing and cut it approximately 2” long.
Cut a small piece of haywire about ½ inch long and wrap it tightly with the pliers around one end of the surgical tube. Make sure it’s tight.

You are now done the burst tube.

Directions for use

To use simply slide it over the ½ inch on bic pen you left stick out of the lid on your ST I. When the CO2 is punctured the air and paint will fill the burst tub until it pops and creates the explosion effect.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2008, 05:43 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
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Default Re: How to thread

I wanted to put this one because it really does work well and it is kinda funny if your the one throwing it. In all defence to the person who you threw it at, it doesnt matter who you are when you see a burning fuse all you wanna do is run!


ST M-80

Materials- Toilet paper tube
Fuse
Flour
Tape

Directions

Take the toilet paper tube and tape one end shut keeping the tube cylinder at the same time. Fill tube with flour for desired weight and tape that end shut. Now puncture a small hole in the side of the tube close to the top and stick in the fuse, after you put it in a small amount tape it so it can’t fall out. Your grenade is now done.

Directions for use

This grenade doesn’t do anything in the way of exploding, all it is used for is to scare the enemy into thinking that you just tossed some sort of explosive into there bunker when they see the fuse burning. The grenade itself doesn’t do a thing. All that is meant to happen is for the fuse to burn and scare whoever sees it into thinking it’s a live explosive grenade.
Grenades such as this one can help give you an advantage through a safe means and very inexpensive means.

Also i would like to note REAL explosives have no place in paintball, not firecrackers, fireworks cherry bombs or anything else that causes bodily harm, that is not the intention of anything I make. Anything you make for paintball should be compleatly safe for yorself and anyone else on the corse.
Everything i make i test myself with the most basic of paintball equiptment (Mask).
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2008, 05:07 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,239
Default Re: How to thread

STII

Materials- 2, ½ 90 degree elbows
1, ½ ball valve (The ¼ turn kind)
1, ½ hose fitting
1 piece of 4” diameter 1/8 thick steal walled pipe, approximately 4” high
2 pieces of 1/8 thick flat plate steal 4” diameter.
6 welding rods
1 tire valve steam

Tools- Welder, mask ect.
2 pipe wrenches
¾ drill bit and ¼

Directions

Take your Ball valve and turn a ½ 90 degree fitting into it so that when its tight the opening is facing the same way as the ball valve leaver when it is closed.
On the other side of the ball valve do the same thing except place this fitting the opposite way of the first one, then turn your ½ hose filling into that. Make sure all joints are tight and wrapped with Teflon.

Now take one of the 4” diameter flat plates and drill a ¾ hole in it close to the perimeter. Take your fittings and place the hose fitting through this hole and weld it good.
Now use your ¼ drill bit and make a hole beside your fitting assembly, pull your valve stem through that hole with the filling side faced out.

Take both 4” diameter flat plates now and weld them around the 4” diameter pipe. You are done your STII. You will probably notice right away it is a real heavy mine but real effective. I suggest painting it to, but you will have to factor that into your materials as well.


Directions for use

Take the valve stem cap off, open up the ball valve place a finger on the pin in the valve to let the air out as you dump your paint in through your fitting assembly. If you don’t push the valve stem pin in it will take a very long time to fill. After it is about ¾ full of paint close the ball valve. You can now use a bicycle pump to pressurize the mine to 30psi. DO NOT EXCEED 30 PSI(it doesnt do anything different in terms of spray pattern or distance, 30 PSI is optimal preformence). It should take like 10 pumps. The mine is now ready for use. Burry it and wait for someone to trip the valve.


NOTES: This is an expensive mine to make, its very heavy also. But it is also 100% effective, there is never a false discharge unless you did something wrong. I think this mine costs around 40.00 to make so its not cheep. I made 2 and love them both.

I would also like to say that pics of all these are on the "home made paintball mods and equiptment"
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-24-2008, 02:03 PM
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slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,239
Default Re: How to thread

Sergical tube grenade

Materials-Surgical tube ¼ diameter
Paint
Ball bearings 5/16
Tape
Haywire
Bottle cap
Syringe
Zip ties

Tools-Drill
3/32 drill bit

Directions

Cut surgical tube 5” long, fold one end over and hold it tight that way with a zip tie. Fill your syringe full of paint and fill surgical tube. Pinch end off and slip ball barring into the tube, make a small hole in the bottle cape to slide a piece of haywire through that you should create in the shape of a P for a pin. Fold the end over that the barring is in and set the cap over it, slide the pin through and you are done. The pin will keep the barring from popping out when its not supposed to.

Directions for use

Pull the pin and throw, upon impact the ball baring will be forced out and the paint will fallow in a spinning motion.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-01-2008, 07:07 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,239
Default Re: How to thread

Someone asked a whial back how I filled my grenades, I found a new way to do it now and thought i would share it with the rest of you. I would like to note that this is not my plan i purchased it among others off Ebay, but it does work

Grenade Filling Device
Well it's really not all that complex. It works off of an air compressor. It cannot be used with CO2 as the maximum pressure is 200 psi. It's a 1' section of 4" PVC. The bottom is a standard end cap. The top is the screw off type. I could not get the top to seal properly so I glued it on and threaded in a 1" close galvanized pipe and use a galvanized cap to close it off. This is where you fill it. The fitting sticking out on the right is where the compressor line goes into the filler. Notice I drilled where the PVC is 2-layers thick. It is also tapped and threaded to 1/4" MPT. The end cap at the bottom was also drilled and threaded to 1/4" MPT and a brass fitting was threaded in. A piece of reinforced clear hose (200 PSI) attached to the fitting and to make sure it stays I added a hose clamp. The line runs to the same fitting threaded into the blowgun and is also clamped in place. On the "out" end of the blow gun there is another brass hose fitting (1/8" MPT) which you slide the grenade tubing on to fill it. It works like a charm. This unit holds approximately 3/4 gallon of paint and was built specifically for someone. My new one is the same design but uses a 2' piece of the 4" PVC and holds 1.5 gallons. The only revisions I might make to the unit are a better filler cap (mine leaks a little air, no big deal) and a pressure release valve where the air fitting taps in.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-01-2008, 07:13 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
Life is peachy
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,239
Default Re: How to thread

This is the plans for making the mag setup that I have on a few various guns of mine(MR2,MR1, Trracer.)

go to your local hardwar stor and buy the fallowing...........

1 LB fitting 3/4 (its for electrical wiring) (3.00)
1 Langth of 3/4 electrical PVC pipe (5.00 for the langth)
12 strait 3/4 connectors (.49 cents each)
1 langth (I think there 2") 7/8 dowelrod
11 really light springs (I am having a horribel time finding as many springs as i need I only found 3 so far, they have to be very light and soft, like an Ariakon Overloards spring in its mag.)

First cut a foot off the PVC at the flaired end and set this asside, you can use this for other plans.

Now I am unfamiliar how thick a feedneck is on your gun either you can fit the LB right to the feedneck buy first wraping a few wraps of tape around it or if its thin enough like the MR series you cut a peice of the PVC 1/4 longer than your feedneck take a 3/4 drill bit and ream it out a little at a time until it fits real snug on your feedneck put your LB ontop of that.
cut a bunch of the PVC pipe 11 inches long and put the strait couplers on one end. Cut the dowel ror about 1/2 inch long and wrap it with tape until it fits real snug into the other end of the coupler attach your spring to the dowel. you could even drive a screw through the coupler into the dowel if you wanted to. thats it your done. I have 13 total mags for mine they hold I think its 17 in each mag and an extra 4 fit in the mag on the gun cuz of the LB you can experiment with the langth of the mags you want to they dont have to be 11 inches 12 inch after the coupler is on.

Just incase someone else is interested in the Mag setup
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-01-2008, 07:39 PM
interceptorMR2's Avatar
interceptorMR2 interceptorMR2 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 781
Default Re: How to thread

okay so im probably the "person a while back" that asked nearly 90% of the how to questions huh.....woops. im thinkin about making a different type of paint grenade with some pvc and some extra stuff.... ill get to it, lets just hope it works. im trying to get an effective grenade that works somewhat like a mine where it sprays... i have a good idea on how to do it, ill get to it and post some pics if it works
__________________
My Tac-SVD MR2

SNIPER

-A skilled military rifleman detailed to spot and pick off enemy soldiers from a concealed place.
-One who shoots at other people from a concealed place.

Those who that say a paintball sniper doesn't exist, haven't come across one yet.

View My Special Ops Brigade Page
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  #8  
Old 02-02-2008, 06:38 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
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Default Re: How to thread

I seen grenades like that its kinda like my PVC mine but it uses a trip spring like the TR 12 mastermine trip mine, when you throw it and it hits the ground it nocks the latch and the spring forces a sharp pericer into the Co2 causing it to spray they do work good but a short radius because the grenade never seems to land the optimal way for the hose to stay in the paint to release alot. Its very hard to explain but when you make one you will know what I mean.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-05-2008, 04:53 PM
interceptorMR2's Avatar
interceptorMR2 interceptorMR2 is offline
<<< my friend's idea of good camouflage...
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 781
Default Re: How to thread

well okay here is my plan, i plan to sort of make the bottom of the grenade bottom heavy, so it always lands that way, and make the bottom sort of like a hard to push button, and therfore on impact the grenade will be triggered to spray upwards, but Im still drawing up the plans right now
__________________
My Tac-SVD MR2

SNIPER

-A skilled military rifleman detailed to spot and pick off enemy soldiers from a concealed place.
-One who shoots at other people from a concealed place.

Those who that say a paintball sniper doesn't exist, haven't come across one yet.

View My Special Ops Brigade Page
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-06-2008, 06:52 AM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
Life is peachy
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,239
Default Re: How to thread

Thats a good idea i never thought about something like that it may just work. But keep in mind that you dont want a heavy bulky grenade that you have to pack around all day. next problem I see is if you are making your trigger mechanism on the bottom you are going to have to comeup with something that is compleatly water tight so you dont loose your paint. Im not sure how you would pull htat off but when you are done throw a how to list up on here for me and everyone else. I would apreciate it.
__________________
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Reply With Quote
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