EM1 Resource Thread

[oldironmudder]

I know there aren't many around anymore but felt there should be a place for this info instead of searching for hours.



EM1 Picture thread

EM1 Movies

EM1 & Primal O-ring kits


O-Rings

LPR Outer -18
Inner -16
Valve Pin -06
Valve -16
Hammer Buffer -13
Hammer -12
Pneumatic Cylinder -15

Screws & Threads

Tray - Body M3.5x12 w/ washer
on-off switch M2x6
Feedneck M4x6
Valve body screw 1/8-27 NPT
Factory reg - frame 5/32" x 7/8" w/ washer
Air inlet to body 1/8-27 NPT
Barrel & LPR - M22 x 1.5
Noid Mounting - M1.7 x 17 (Ive called several suppliers & all say this is a really odd size or custom size.)

Factory Replacement parts


Doro Paintball

Replacement solenoid




Otter's - Basic Upkeep of your EM-1

Otter's - EM1 Upgrades - F.A.Q.

Otter's - How the EM1 Works



PBR reviews
EM1
EM1 Modify


Misc.

Factory Manual

LPR Break Down

Full Diagram

Kingmans patent for the EM1



Mods, if yall dont think its worth it just delete this.

[oldironmudder]

Modifications

Vertical Adapters

Bushmaster VAs bolt on

Frame/Tray

Can cut stock single trigger off & drill holes for Bushmaster, Angel of other frames.

Bushy trays are ~7/8" shorter (front to back) than EM1s. Holes will need to be drilled & tapped for it to work.

Angel LCD frame mod

B2k Frame mod

Valves

Bushy valve drop in

Bolts

Bandit makes two, one is a stock style without a venturi. Here

Their second bolt is the Cloverleaf Bolt. Here

Bushy bolts may work but not 100% sure.

Ram Assembly

Bushy ram assemblys will work with drilling & tapping to the body and some cutting to the ram housing.


Circut Boards
Boards from other markers, like Bushmasters, will work. Mounting & wire splicing is all that is needed.

You can use a stock Spyder board or Tboard, cut the capacitor off. If you are using the ver-c board, there is an EP jumper you can pull out.

Here is a "red" board that came out in early EM1s. The cap was set at 20bps.


This is the "blue" board. Its cap was at 13bps.



Low Pressure Regulator

Palmer used to install Rocks or Micro Rocks in place of the stock LPR. They would simply run an external line down to the bottom side of the body to feed the air to the noid. IIRC this ran around $175.

You can gut it & tap the cap for a cocker lpr.

Bushmaster pistons will work.

Bushy Caps will screw right in.

Stock LPR mod

Feednecks

Tabs with no holes.

This is one I found that would allow you to use an Impulse feedneck.


This adapter can be found here for $35 with a clamping feed neck.

[oldironmudder]

3 posts should be more than enough

[Nenkitsune]

also for bolts, i'm almost positive you can modify a bushmaster bolt to work, but I haven't gotten a chance to try yet.
and for LPR, the bushmaster pistons work

[oldironmudder]

Here is the board settings for the 'Red' Board.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...ch/reddips.jpg

[oldironmudder]

Found some photos worte being in here.

[pinkanese]

Seeing as how there is no link to a manual in the first post, and I think there should be one somewhere, I took the liberty of uploaded the one I recently acquired. Note, I did not actually scan these myself.

(I thought the pics might be a little to large to post directly, let me know if there are any problems with them).
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
Page 5
Page 6
Page 7
Page 8

I hope to provied some more information as soon as my new toys get here sometime next week, so keep your eyes peeled.

[oldironmudder]

Ill trade ya an oring kit for the manual

I bet your gonna do a tear-down & cleaning thingy page?? Oh well, it was on my list along with uploading a few pics i took like the LPR tore down.

[oldironmudder]

Here is the LPR broke down incase you ever have to mess with it. Be warned, When you put it back together, start the PSI low & very very slowy raise it up. I blew a noid gasket very easy when I was adjusting it.



Left to right : End cap - Spring - Piston with oring - Set screw on allen wrech - (not pictured is the seal clear in color) - Brass piece that seal on the seal - Spring - Inside cap

[Nenkitsune]

another tip, do NOT take the silver cap off the LPR UNLESS you are able to move the adjustment screw. this WILL alter the LPR setting, and WILL cause your gun to run bad (I almost blew my noid, because it would vent if I tried raising the hpr higher than 200psi since the LPR setting was so screwed up, which caused me to spend an agonizing amount of time trying to loosen the LPR cap)

haha I just realized my gun doesn't have the set screw anymore. must've been lost long ago

another tip is to polish the LPR housing. mostly where the brass plunger/oring sit. it helps it stay a bit more consistant and react faster (a common bushy tip)