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  #1  
Old 12-15-2008, 08:00 AM
Neon Neon is offline
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Default MR1 chopping paint with ACP bolt

I own an MR1 (actually two, my gf and me) for a year now and when I was playing in spring and summer and autumn it was working great.

Last two games they both started chopping paint like crazy. We couldn't play. First time I managed to pinpoint a problem to Nel-Splat paint that was too large for our 14" JJ barrels so it cracked in the barrel. Some people recommended me to buy delrin bolts never the less. I ordered bolts from Alamo City paintball. MR1 bolts version with 2 o-rings so to be as similar to the stock bolt.

After installing those bolts both markers are chopping paintballs every 10 or 20 balls fired. I tried using Nel-Splat, RPS Stinger, RPS Premium, Draxxus Blaze and finally RPS Polar Ice. No difference, every 10 or 20 balls I get a chop but it is not a barrel break, it is a bolt break. As if the bolt just goes through the ball.

Has anyone have any problems with ACP delrin bolts for MR1?

I suspect that ACP bolt being the lighter then aluminium one from Spyder moves faster and gets the ball while it is dropping from the feeder (I use a gravity loader or ViewLoader X-Board.

Any ideas on improving my situation?
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2008, 09:59 AM
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slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Location: Wildwood, Alberta, Canada
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Default Re: MR1 chopping paint with ACP bolt

do you have the same sort of problem with the electronic loader? What is your velocity at? Are your detents in good condition? What is the temperature where your at is it very cold? if so are you using HPA or Co2?

i have never heard of a barrel cracking due to to large of paint that is unbeleivable to me. One other thing is there any burs or corse scratches in the marker body that could be damaging the paint?
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2008, 03:13 PM
Neon Neon is offline
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Default Re: MR1 chopping paint with ACP bolt

No problem, just that my electronic loader is not an agitated. It is just a mixer for the paint not to get stuck.

I do not have the chrono to measure velocity. Detents are in very good condition - checked them against a new one and no difference. Temperature here while I was having problems was 0 to 5 degrees Celsius (32 to 41).

I tried using HPA and CO2 - same problem.

I tried pushing Nel-Splat ball through my JJ barrel and it would stop at some point in the barrel. Tried three other JJs and same thing happened. Stock Sypder barrel accepted those Nel-Splat balls.
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2008, 07:26 PM
slim and shady's Avatar
slim and shady slim and shady is offline
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Default Re: MR1 chopping paint with ACP bolt

well if you dont have any problem using an electronic loader I beleive you found the answear to your question, buy an old revy should work great.
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General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander



Armored Units

-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)



-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Skyline Sergeant
-YGP Rep!
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
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  #5  
Old 12-18-2008, 07:20 AM
Neon Neon is offline
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Default Re: MR1 chopping paint with ACP bolt

I will borrow and electronic loader from a friend and try testing with it. I will post here when I do.
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  #6  
Old 12-18-2008, 01:56 PM
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bigred76 bigred76 is offline
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Default Re: MR1 chopping paint with ACP bolt

Ah, a Revvy is not an electronic blender for paint. It is the low level of agitated loader. If you wanted to try something else, use a Halo/Reloader B, VLocity, Magna, Pulse, Prophecy, Rotor, etc. Any force-feed loader will feed at about 20bps, which is far beyond an MR1's capability.

What velocity are you chrono'ing the guns to? CO2 or HPA? Regulator or no? Spring kits? Or are they just stock?

The problem with a delrin bolt over stock is just as you described: they're lighter. Because the bolt is lighter, it makes the moving mass lighter, making it easier to move (also because the bolt's lighter than the striker it can also cause some problems in some extreme cases with binding). As a result, in order to get your velocity down and thus your ball breaks, you need to do one of three things: turn down the velocity adjuster, get a better spring set-up (either by purchasing a kit or cutting the stock), or getting a regulator to lower the Operating Pressure (OP) of the marker.
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