Spyder Forums  

Go Back   Spyder Forums > Spyder Markers > Discontinued Markers
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
  #1  
Old 12-31-2005, 01:12 AM
OtterSC's Avatar
OtterSC OtterSC is offline
Not dead yet!
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cyberspace far away
Posts: 685
Default True Response Trigger Mod...

OK guys, I moded my trigger frame last night and put a switch on it tonight and took some pics. I went to Radio Shack and got a small on/off switch(slide switch - #275-409). It's a small 3 prong dual switch which will serve my single needs. I used some wire from an old telephone cord. It's perfect because it's a very small gauge wire and it fit in the small holes for the connectors of the switch. I got lazy and just used the cutout window for the ESP e-frame rather than cut a small hole in the solid one for the slide switch. I use a Hogue grip sleeve that covers this area so I'm not concerned about paint getting in the switch. I'm going to make this as simple as possible and try not to drag it out too much. Alright....here we go:



First I removed the trigger frame, then the grip. I started to scribe the locations for the holes but decided it would be easier to just tape the switch on the window to hold it in place while I drilled it. It was somewhat difficult getting it in the right spot because the holes were very close to the edge of the cutout in the plastic window. It would have been much easier to position and drill them if I used the solid window but everything worked out.



I'm a fastener ho so I save about every screw, nut and bolt that almost gets thrown away in my house so I went through the abundance if extra's and found two small screws that would hold the switch in place. After drilling the two 5/16" holes I screwed the two screws in the holes to tap them before installing the switch.





After installing the switch the screws were a bit long so I cut them off with a Dremel and cutting disk. I had to have a small rag w/water on it to cool it down so it wouldn't melt the plastic too much when doing this....it got very hot and I had to do it slowly. You could just use a file if you don't have a Dremel to do this if needed. After this I filed the rough edges off the ends of the screws and inserted the window in the grip.



Next I made two wires 5" long and stripped 3/4" off of both ends of each and twisted the ends so they would fit through the very small holes of the switch connectors. I actually opened the holes a little turning my ex-acto #11 blade point in them. I then put the black wire through the hole in the top prong of the micro-switch and twisted it on. It was somewhat difficult because of the limited space to work in. then I twisted the red wire around the center prong of the micro-switch. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to help get it as tight as possible so there would be a decent connection. It would have been easier to solder them on but I didn't want it to be a perminent connection on either end in case I wanted to remove it.



Before connecting the other ends I removed the battery. Next I twisted the black wire to the outside prong on the switch that was already in the window and grip. Then twisted the red wire to the center prong on the switch. After that I put some cloth electrical tape over the ends because they were very close and didn't want them to touch and short the connection out. Next I put a couple of pieces of electrical tape 1/3rd of the length of the wires to hold them together.



After that I organized the wires in the frame, put the battery back in and tested it. Then I carefully put the grip back on the trigger frame. I actually did a lot of planning before I started this because you need to put the switch in just the right place or it's not going to fit. The spot that I put it was the only possible place that I could put that particular switch. There are prolly all kinds of different deviations of this as far as switches, ect but I wasn't going to run around too much looking for parts and what not. I think the worse part of the whole thing was putting the grip sleeve back on but hopefully I won't need to do that for a while. I can just curl back the sleeve to access the switch.





It sounds pretty good testing it and I'll run some paint through it some time today for the final test. It seems very easy to max the rof out just clicking it and prolly will take a little time getting used to it.

Originator of article - DRAGON

*Just a warning. Any attempts to modify any marker in any fashion will void warranty. Liability of personal injury and property damage is not the mistake of the originator of articles.
__________________
Markers: VS, Phantom, AutoCocker, PGP, AMG

Last edited by OtterSC : 12-31-2005 at 01:36 AM.
Reply With Quote
 


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:13 AM.