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#1
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Hey guys, im tryin to do the trigger mod for my pilot 05 where you connect the top pin of the micro switch to the middle so that you get a type of response trigger. When you pull it fires when you let off it fires.
To do the mod all you do is connect the top pin on the switch with the middle with some thing that will conduct electricity. But as simple as that is I cant get it to work. It will only fire once then freeze. Is it because spyder updated the CAMD board to fight this mod or do I have a bad switch or am I to stupid to get this to work? Thanks for anyhelp. |
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#2
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I have not done this to one of the newer boards but all you need to do is wire the empty pin to the middle pin. I would highly suggest you wire a switch in the so every time you turn the board on it doesnt fire.
You may want to cross them & test it outside the frame. |
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#3
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Found this on my old site. Its simple but a little outdated to me as I have changed how I handle & do stuff now.
Reactive Trigger Response As you have read in ads & the manual that the kingman E-frames have this mode but after fiddling with it for a while you realize that its not on there. Dont get your pants in a wad, you can have it but only for a little bit of work. First a bit of history, RTR is when a electric paintball marker cycles on the pull & release of the trigger. It is a poor mans turbo mode really. WARNING: I suggest that you read all directions before you do this mod. I will not be held responsible if you mess up your trigger frame, hurt yourself or the family pet. All I did was provide the information to do this mod. Materials ~1 SPST switch ~1 10" or more piece of wire, 20gauge works fine ~Solder if you want to keep it a long time, other wise some electric tape ~Few inchs of heat shrink to cover the soldered connections Step 1:Take the grip frame off the body. Remove the grip panels & disconnect the battery. Look around inside to understand how the parts go. Find the trigger switch now. Step 2:After you have found the trigger switch look on the rear of it & you will see 3 leads, 2 have wires & the other is bare. What you are trying to do is connect the bare lead with the middle lead with a switch os a on-off. If you can tap out the pins holding the trigger & switch.Just leaving the switch in will make this harder because of the cramped space inside the frame. Step 3:Take your wire & strip between .25" - .5" of insulation off. Connect one wire end to the middle lead & the second wire to the bare end. If you are soldering the connection this is the time to do so. If not, cover bare wire with some electric tape. Step 4:Time to find a mounting spot for the switch. When I did this mod, this was the hardest step. You can drill a hole into the grip panels, mill out part of the frames by the body to help hide the switch. Just find a spot you like & wont be hit & come on by it self. The second time I did this I used a small SPDT slider switch, like stock on-off, & mounted it in the window ofthe panel. It was short enough so it wouldnt hit the dip switchs or any other parts of the board. Step 5:Put a battery into the frame & turn the frame on. If you hear the noid click the mod is working. If not & you installed a switch flip the switch & the noid should go off. Now go out & play with it a while. |
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#4
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ok I worked on this again last night with out any luck. I thought maybe the switch was getting a ground connection somewhere because the wire was touching the frame so I adjusted so that and still nothing, get one shot off then nothing else happens no fire on the let off and no fire on the next pull. Could it be just a problem with the switch.
If so im not changing it right now, this is my main marker and im not screwin it up cause I couldn't afford to fix it till the fall and would have to miss out a season of paintball. If anyone has any other ideas let me know, this would destroy anyone else on my speed ball field. |
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