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  #1  
Old 03-21-2009, 09:00 AM
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LiquidSteel LiquidSteel is offline
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Location: bluffton indiana
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Question drilling valve

by researching the various posts i find that drilling the valve lowers the pressure. now if i drill a spare valve i have how large should i drill the hole? should i drill all the way thru or just half of it? by drilling the valve what should i notice as far as performance? most of the rest of the gun im drillin it for is my mule so its mostly stock. i half backed it took out the venturie plan to pollish the bolt ect ect. i try to do all my own work "only way m gonna learn" are there pros and cons to drilling the valve?
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:35 PM
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oldironmudder oldironmudder is offline
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Default Re: drilling valve



The valve in the far back is a stock Spyder valve. Middle is a NDZ & the one closest to you is my hogged out valve. It started out as a stock valve & I took a dremal to it. I also have a ground down valve pin but no pictures. The difference between the two is alot, even from using the same pin.

When or drill, or cut like I did, keep it between the orings & leave atleast 1/16" between the oring & your hole.
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:35 PM
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DRAGON DRAGON is offline
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Default Re: drilling valve

Drilling is supposed to increase flow. I wasted my time doing it once and noticed very little if not no difference at all. If you want higher flow just get a NDZ or Magnaport valve. I would suggest the Maddman valve over those but sounds like you're new at this -
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:14 PM
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LiquidSteel LiquidSteel is offline
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Default Re: drilling valve

very new to this. willing to mod and try what i can to make my marker better. i use my pawnshop built gun as a mule so i dont screw up my emarker to the point of having to replace everything in it to get it back to warking order. drill both sides or just 1 side of the valve?
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:33 PM
ooglieboogliebob ooglieboogliebob is offline
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Default Re: drilling valve

Only one side on the cylindrical sides and the flat side. The reason that there's two holes for the cylindrical sides is so the screw on the body will keep the valve in place. For the flat sides, you want to drill the side that goes into the cupseal/valve pin. Otherwise you'll leak.

Now on the flat pieces remember to drill the bigger hole. This is for the valve pin + cupseal. Make sure when you grind it to go very slow. That way bores and rough edges don't occur. If it does happen you might have to go through countless trial and errors to get the valve flat for the cupseal.
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