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This took a little work but I am pleased how it turned out. If anyone has any questions don't hesitate to ask... and now, on with the show...
Here is the finished version... http://server.myspace-shack.com/d14/DSC01076_1.jpg Here is a shot of the venturi bolt with the rear cocking pin... If you noticed I cut the stock's adapter off and incorporated it to my design. I had to drill a 1/4" hole which gave the cocking pin plenty of room to slide through. The bolt is an eye bolt with a closed loop. I felt this would be better for not getting hung up on things but at the same time allowed for a good grip to pull while wearing gloves. The bolt I used has a 12x24 thread pattern and is 3.25" long from the end of the threads to the front of the ring (ring not included in measurment). I also used a nut to lock it to the V-bolt. This is not the correct size because the ball dent screw is metric (just like all the other screws). There is a screw chart pinned in the general spyder forum and some of the MR1's screws there have a number. The ball dent screw does not but I would guess that it is a #14 or #16. Don't quote me on that . At some point I will go to lowes and get the correct size but what I have works for now... I also used some LOCK TIGHT thread locker on the thing...http://server.myspace-shack.com/d14/DSC01063_1.jpg Next we have a picture of the Pull Pin Cocking Knob. I kept the original and just used a 1/4x20 bolt that has been cut down to fit. The groove was made by chucking the bolt in my drill and while spinning I lightly touched it to a grinding wheel that was also spinning. http://server.myspace-shack.com/d14/DSC01068_1.jpg Here is a rear view of the marker to show what it looks like... http://server.myspace-shack.com/d14/DSC01069_1_1.jpg And one more shot of the marker fully assembled... ![]() Last edited by deano 177 : 11-15-2007 at 04:01 PM. |
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#2
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looks good. Now, is it going to hit you in the eye??
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#3
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#4
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#5
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I agree, I would shorten the cocking rod a bit and make a beavertail for it. Right now you will be mindful of it but after a while you'll forget and with the speed the bolt moves at, it could really hurt you.
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#6
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#7
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look cool, i didnt think it would be that easy. i might try that if i get board of the stock
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-VS3: j&j 14", egg3, cut "wings", drilled foregrip, no co2 filter, 220 psi, red body kit, red macro, 68/4500. soon: sick body, feedneck. -MR1: trinity feedneck, mr series 16" riffled, no co2 filter, macro line, 48/3000 steely, remote coil. soon: j&j 16"-20", mr series stock. IF YOUR PARENTS DONT PAY FOR YOU TO PLAY PAINTBALL PUT THIS IN YOUR SIG |
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#8
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Hi im newbie!!
I try to buy a Delrin ACS Bolt Rear Cocking for my MR-1 but i don’t know what is the Right choice I try to buy in Amazon but I don’t know what is the right option Please help me!! Can you post the link of all a Delrin ACS Bolt Rear Cocking for the MR-1 (whit stock or with out stock) I really love my MR-1… I take a couple of picture to post here very soon! Thxs for the help! Jaws MR-1+AR-15 Stock+ Laser Sight and Red Point Sight + Spyder Tactical Rail, and more modifications incoming soon!! Spyder Electra ACS PD: Sorry for my bad English!! |
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#9
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Check this thread for most of the upgrade parts...http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=8340
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