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Old 10-09-2009, 01:58 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: hiding behind my 114/45 :D
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Default Pure Excess Industries

Pure Excess Industries
Pure Marker OIL review
I filled a pre-order for a 100ml bottle of this oil. I was notified at the pre-order that an email would be sent when the product was shipped. Well, I received that email and 3 days later, the box arrived containing the oil. I’m sorry, the camera is dead and couldn't’t take pics at this time. Perhaps I can amend this review when it’s up and running but I’ve made some tests already that I should not duplicate [would be unfair].
Upon opening the package, the bottle was taped / sealed inside a plastic bag and then wrapped with brown packaging paper. There was no leakage inside the container.
Upon removing the bottle from the plastic, I noticed the liquid is a mild green color. The cap has a long, slender tip with a tethered cap to close it when finally opened. The tethered cap is small and the tether itself is thin. It does have to potential to get lost if you accidentally tear the tether because it dozen't’t “snap” into place on the tip. It is a pressure fit only type cap.
I used a safety pin to pierce the nozzle and placed one small drop on my clean [washed] fingertip [left hand]. I slowly and lightly rolled my index finger and thumb together to get a “feel” of the oil. It has a ‘buttery’ or ‘silky’ feel to it that I have not observed in many other oils. I continued to rub my fingers together to see how long it would remain silky and after 6 minutes, I gave up. I rubbed a little harder, adding additional friction to the oil. I did this for 2 minutes and the only thing I noticed was that it had absorbed into my skin…but it was STILL silky soft.
Marker test
Tippmann A5, APE E-Grip + board, RI trigger, X7 valve and power tube, Palmer Male Stab in tombstone, polished internals, Cyclone upgrades and 14” Freak barrel kit. Paint used is left over Skirmish paint. Air source was a full 20oz CO2 bottle.
I took the marker AS IS out back with a full 20oz CO2 bottle, goggles, pod of paint and chronograph. I added 2 drops of my everyday oil to the asa, aired it up, loaded it and set the velocity to 280fps.
1. I took the marker completely apart and wiped down the oil already present. I removed all O-Rings and wiped them clean as well. I noticed that there was slight debris inside the clam shells, much like fine dirt or grit. This is probably CO2 residue but the marker internals are now clean.
2. I added oil to the friction areas of the clamshells and rubbed it in with my [clean] finger. I then added oil to all O-Rings and reassembled. I did NOT add oil to the cyclone itself but I did add it to the piston housing O-Ring on the plunger. I did NOT add oil to my Palmer stab.
· Cocking prior to adding air. There was a LITTLE metal-to-metal rub on the cocking stroke but that dissipated after a few tries. I also had the clam shell screws a little too tight and loosened them. Once I did that, the “rubbing” disappeared all together.
· Airing up and firing. I screwed in my 20oz bottle and fired two shots [dry fire]. The marker responded very quickly. I set the APE to full auto [not my usual setting of ‘semi’] and pulled the trigger. I held that trigger until the bottle began to ice over. If I had to estimate how many shots that was, I’d have to guess it was around 100-150 and stopped.
· Adding paint. I took my goggles, chrono and a pod of paint out back. I added 3 drops of the PEI OIL into the asa, reset the board to semi and fired two shots over the chrono. 290 and 287 fps respectively. I reset the marker to chronograph at 280 and then switched the board to full auto. There was one barrel break (not cyclone) about half-way through the pod, so I stopped to clean it and continued to empty the hopper. I added one more pod of paint and emptied it without a break.
3. I broke down the marker to inspect the internals. Approximately 150 dry fires and 260 paintballs equals approximately 411 shots with CO2. There was oil in every location I originally put it in. The O-Rings were still hydrated, the clamshells were still slick and glossy and the recocking lever action was still smooth as butter.
· Marker test. 68 Pro Classic AutoMag. MiniMag valve, MM rail, CF single trigger frame, 9” twist-lock Freak barrel (8” back, 1” tip), and 12V Revvi hopper. Valve was recently rebuilt but unused except to test for leaks. Paint used is left over Skirmish paint. Air source is an HPA bottle and is a 114/45 Carleton with Guerrilla Air ***U regulator, containing ~4300 psi.
1. I took the Mag AS IS, dripped 3 drops of Mag-Juice into the asa and aired it up. I dry fired the marker for almost 1000 psi. If I had to estimate how many shots that was, I would have to say at least 100-125. Chronographing the marker is a waste of time because you have to disassemble the valve to clean and oil it.
2. I disassembled the Mag to see oil everywhere. I completely cleaned the valve (which is actually a pain…lol) and used the PEI OIL instead of the Mag-Juice. I added PEI OIL to the barrel O-Rings, to the bolt and bolt spring and the sear axle pin. I reassembled the marker and aired it up to test for leaks. None.
3. I took the marker, pod of paint, goggles and chrono out back. I dry fired 5 slow shots and it seemed UNNERVINGLY smooth shooting. I actually thought there was something wrong. I then added the pod of paint and chronographed the marker to 280 fps.
4. I fired the marker until the hopper was empty. No chops, no barrel breaks.
5. I returned to the indoors to inspect the presence of the oil. It was everywhere I put it.
I have to say that I’m VERY impressed with my initial testing of this oil. Obviously only shooting up to 2 pods of paint isn’t a true test of capabilities but it’s a good start. I can’t wait to get out into the field using this stuff…
Fit size - 10. I bought the 100ml bottle specifically to test on various markers but as it turns out, you don't really need a whole lot at a time. I used 2 drops per ORing [and the Mag has quite a few], 4 drops on each of the clamshells [A5] and it didn't even put a dent in the 100ml bottle.
Finish/Bling - N/A
Intall/maintenance - 9. My ONLY issue is the cap that seals the tip after you pierce it. It does not 'lock' into a dimple to keep it there and if the tether breaks, the cap will be lost.
Performance/Increase - 10. It has DEFINITELY improved the two markers I tried it on. The A5 isn't exactly a spectatularly designed marker but the Mag valve IS. I find that the buttery smooth qualities in the oil are what [probably] affected the performances so much. Both markers even sounded differently and I have to Mag is a little louder than the A5 under normal circumstances. It's hard to describe.
Value per dollar - 10. This oil would be worth it if it were $8 more than what I paid for it. I might buy a few more, just so that I have it on hand.
Well, there you have it. [Initially] Tested on two very different quality markers and it performed admirably on both. Both markers perform well on the oils that I used in the past but this PEI Oil is something else. I highly recommend it.
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