Shady's guide to the MR2 for new users
(I made this up for Milsim Empire and they found it worthy of a stickie so I thought it may be just as usefull here, enjoy)
******THIS IS FOR THE SPYDER MR2 ACS VERSION (Not the New MR2 W/eye)*******
I thought i would throw this together for the MR2 users out there.
When you buy an MR2 there are a few thing that you are going to want to do right away..
-Break in the ACS- This can take anywhere from 24 hours to a week. To break it in you just compress the spring and use a zip tie to keep it compressed. If you dont do this your gun wont recock itself when it detects that a paintball isnt fully in the breach.
-Detents- As soon as possible you are going to want to get your hands on some Timmy detents they are a little tough to cram in there but are by far the best for the MR2. The stock ones are not as good as they should be and sheer often.
-Force Feed hopper- If you want to utalise your gun to the fullest extent you need a forc feed hopper this will alow you to use the high rate of fire fetures that comes stock with the MR2. A few of the most populare hoppers are...Halo B, Empire, and Q-loader. A cheeper force feed hoper would be the veiwloader force. With a good force feed hopper you must make sure you have good detents.
-Locking feedneck- This is an upgrade almost everyone gets right away. The only weekpoint on an MR2 is the cheep plastic elbow, other than that you could probably chop down trees with this thing! Some of the more popular kinds are, Trinity, CCM and Core. You undo the 3 allen keys (cant remember if the key size is 3 or 2.5) remove the old feedneck and bolt the new one on with the same bolts.
These feednecks will not work with the new mr2 with eye as they pinch the wires causing eye malfunctions however Trinity is due to release one for the new MR2 in the near future.
-HPA- As with all high ROF guns its a great upgrade. Personaly I think this is one of the most important upgrades if not the most important.
-Bolt- One of the more common upgrades and a cheep one, though it is not nessissary is a new bolt. getting a new bolt helps defet a few of the blowback problems the MR2 has. most popular bolts are the Alamo City bolts, either the low-blow bolt that adds a little more distance due to a backspin (but decreases accuracy) or a 2 or 3 o-ring bolt are all good and definatly worth the money.
-Barrel- Now you should be running pretty smoothly and probably want a new barrel you have to make sure that the diameter of the new barrel is 7/8 or under or it wont fit in the shroud(you could just remove the shroud if you dont want to do your homework) some of the more popular barrels are the J&J, Apex and MR series barrels. You could also take any barrel to a machinest and get them to turn the back down to 7/8 most wont even charge you for it. Make sure to check the other sticky on this page for a huge list of variouse barrels and other upgrades.
-stock- some people like to buy a new stock like the cammando stock or car stock. Alot of users cut the top of the origanal stock of so that they may use sites more effectivly.
-Grips- You can either get Dye stickys and modify them or the new MR grips.
*A COMMON PROBLEM* with the MR2 is over tightning grips if this happens your selinoid wont function as it should and your gun wont shoot. to see if this is your problem disconect your air get the paint out of the marker and then turn your switch on if it doesnt "click" when you pull the trigger thats probably what it is.
Another common problem is putting the valve in upside down after you clean your gun this causes your marker to hickup and act like your tank is out of air, just take the valve out and flip it over.
Something all MR2 users bump into once in a wial is the loss of Full auto and 3 rnd burst. This is caused by the little red jumper falling off the board pins. when you change to auto or 3rnd burst the LED will stay green and it will only shoot semi. To fix this Take your left hand grip off and put the pumper back on the pins, it should be bouncing around inside the trigger fraim.
In the off chance you lose the jumper you can pick up a pack of them from your local computer store or electronics store for a few bucks. They are the same as computer jumpers.
*About the shroud* The shroud on the MR2 is 2" deep and is 7/8 diameter if any of you are looking for barrels that will fit or extenders.
*MR2 Weight* This comes up alot, how to make the MR2 lighter. You can take the 2 plates off(One on each side at the back) you can remove the front shroud. If you are using a hopper such as the Halo grab the 9Volt mod that takes off some weight as well. Use a remote so the tank isnt on the gun and perhaps grab a sling. But the MR2 is just a heavy gun I would also sugest lifting weights.
If anyone has anything to add feel free.
General Shawn Wayne Tetz, Commander 187th Gaurds Mechanized Rilfe Division.
- Includes the 3rd armored brigade from the 34th Gaurds Armored Division. (APC's and armor as well as support elements)
-UCSF Armored Division Commander
-Deep insertion APC
-Killer "B" Battle Tank
-Troop Transport APC (almost done)
-Gun Truck heavy support unit (In the works)
-Order of Lenin (1st)
-Sector 4 team feild honor recipiant (UCSF)
Last edited by slim and shady : 06-12-2008 at 07:35 PM.