View Full Version : Shimming
02-14-2007, 09:12 PM
I am messing around with lowering my pilots pressure. I don't have an gauge and need to get one but i am just trying to get it low. Not knowing what low is lol. anyway i have a evil detonator and polished my striker and even with c02 it is very consistent. not chrono wise but as far as accuracy it has helped a great deal. So here my question i have a spring kit (mad man but plan on getting 32 degrees for better tuning) and when i use the heavy spring my noid wont activate the striker. so i opened the grip and put a oring behind the noid so it can go all the way back and it activates the striker every time. Is this safe for my noid. and one more thing what would be the best upgrade that i should do next. Thanks
02-15-2007, 03:02 AM
People have shimmed the noid here on the forums, usually with a dime. You say you have the heavy spring, I assume you mean main- not valve? Your best bet is to get a gauge on that thing before you try to tune it. Pretty much anything under 400 psi is an "acceptable" low pressure for a Spyder. You may also find that it burps/jackhammers instead of re-cocking when there is no ball in the chamber; a common issue for lp Spyders as well. What ambient temperature are you trying to tune this CO2 lp in? What LP(upgraded) parts do you have other than a reg? Did you install a hi volume valve and/or ASA? What VA are you using? [My questions are in the hi-flow area of LP tuning]
Read up Otter's site for sure.
02-15-2007, 05:26 AM
Shimming your noid is perfectly fine. I use to do it when I had my Spyders and never had any problems with it. Now as for why your marker won't fire when you have a heavy spring in, thats a very good question. Usually when the sear won't release the striker that is a battery problem. Only other thing it could really be is damage to the inside of the marker where the striker is. Inspect that and also make sure you are using a 9.6v battery. 9v usually don't have what it takes to operate the noid.
02-15-2007, 07:21 AM
It is the 9.6 battery. I will inspect the seat and striker. I ill probably order a new Batter soon. I have a blue Asa i got of ebay. i got it to match my gun. I dont think it is high flowing i will soon drill it out thought.basically the only mods i have are the asa and the polished striker. I think i am going to buy the bandit bolt with oring and the valve combo.
02-15-2007, 12:32 PM
I've never heard of anybody drilling out their asa. I'd be extremely cautious.
02-15-2007, 12:57 PM
I did it on my stock ASA; I followed Otter's site directions.
02-15-2007, 02:53 PM
i drilled out mine also and works. the not firing thing with the heavy spring concerns me because my e99 started that and when i finally figured out what was actually causing it i needed a new capacitor. which i found an imagine board cheaper than just the capacitor. so check the wires coming from the capacitor. just as a precaution.
02-15-2007, 05:29 PM
I've never seen an ASA mod on Otter's site. Are you guys talking about the Vertical Adapter?
02-15-2007, 05:42 PM
I meant the the vertical adapter sorry for the confusion. My board has giving me trouble since i have had it. Fist the contact between the board and the charging port broke so i had to wedge paper in the cause my soldering skill aren't good. no my switch that changes modes changes them automatically. I was considering the lucky spitfire board. But it just seems to me that the after market boards seem difficult to use.
02-15-2007, 08:12 PM
I had a T Board in my spyder and it wasn't very difficult at all to use. Just read the manual and follow the instructions and you should be fine.
As for the soldering problem. You should be able to take that down to a electronic repair shop or computer repair shop and they could solder it for you. Probably for pretty cheap too.
02-15-2007, 10:11 PM
i am not sure i read it on otter's site but i read it on one fo the boards. just ahve to drill from 2 directions and carefully because they are at different angles