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View Full Version : Crazy Question - Conversion of MR2 to Mechanical Trigger


zookman
01-29-2007, 02:09 PM
OK, I know I will probably take a bunch of heat for this and everyone is gonna say, just get an MR1, but bear with me.

Is there a way to convert an MR2 electronic trigger to an MR1 type mechanical trigger? I realize the whole benefit of the MR2 is the burst/auto fire and that is what separates it from the MR1. However, if you have a board failure, you are pretty much dead in the water, which is what happened to me. I'd rather have semi-auto fire instead of nothing.

Any creative suggestions on a low cost method to allow the gun to be shot manually? I'm not looking to buy a whole new trigger if it can be avoided.

I figure with as exposed as the electronics are in these guns, it would be nice to have a quick conversion in case you happend to drop your gun in the water or something. Whatdaya think!?!?!?

MVS1
01-29-2007, 02:24 PM
I don't know if it would work, but I'm guessing it would, just buy a MR1 trigger frame and have it available to swapout if needed. Its a thought.

pbgrandpa
01-29-2007, 02:33 PM
I don't believe any other e-frame or mech frame will fit the MR2. It's just it 's own animal if you get my meaning. Comparing the frame on my MR1 to the MR2 it doesn't look like a possibility.

BOOstGhost
01-29-2007, 02:42 PM
I don't know if it would work, but I'm guessing it would, just buy a MR1 trigger frame and have it available to swapout if needed. Its a thought.
It won't fit.

lucifer_sam
01-29-2007, 04:43 PM
Spyder ensures that their e-triggers fit the models that they intend to. I believe the MR2 is on the list of models that fit their new rocking trigger ("shoot twice as fast"), so naturally, one would think that the mechanical triggers for each would fit. There are quite a few models on this list, but one I'm sure of is the TLR, which fits fine.

If you would have a problem with one of those aforementioned triggers, it is simply the housing for your hose that is getting in the way. Sand it down, it's just cheap plastic.

Every Spyder model isn't exactly alike, but the number that are is astronomical. And every single Spyder (whether operated electrically or mechanically) has the same internal, stacked tube, blowback bolt system. I would think that a mechanical trigger could fire the hammer in the same way as an e-trigger.

MR2 Woodsballer
01-30-2007, 01:59 AM
If you read back in the old pages of this fourm around page 15 or 16 you will find your answer. I was reading old posts a week or so ago (just bored) and one of the Kingman representives said that the MR2 and MR3 trigger frames were specificaly designed for these markers. (someone wanted to know if they could put a rocking tirgger on a MR2) So if you have a MR1 any E-Spyder trigger frame should work to convert to electronic.

LyricalColt
02-02-2007, 06:39 AM
So does that mean you cannot put a rocking tripper on an MR2?

MR2 Woodsballer
02-02-2007, 08:06 AM
Exacly no E-frame trigger will fit on the MR2 or the MR3. (the trigger frames were designed special for these guns)

Nuwisha
02-03-2007, 10:16 AM
Without doing some serious milling on a mech frame, the best you can do is buy a t-board and only play in nice weather (and don't fall in the creek like I did). Then get a mech to play with in bad weather (I have a jt tac-5 I use when i don't want to bring out the MR2).

Custom made grips and a plug for the charging hole could create some resistance to weather. I'm thinking of doing some wood grips with rubber seals on them....and then sealing up all the other holes as much as i can.

lugate01
02-03-2007, 03:48 PM
OK, I know I will probably take a bunch of heat for this and everyone is gonna say, just get an MR1, but bear with me.

Is there a way to convert an MR2 electronic trigger to an MR1 type mechanical trigger? I realize the whole benefit of the MR2 is the burst/auto fire and that is what separates it from the MR1. However, if you have a board failure, you are pretty much dead in the water, which is what happened to me. I'd rather have semi-auto fire instead of nothing.

Any creative suggestions on a low cost method to allow the gun to be shot manually? I'm not looking to buy a whole new trigger if it can be avoided.

I figure with as exposed as the electronics are in these guns, it would be nice to have a quick conversion in case you happend to drop your gun in the water or something. Whatdaya think!?!?!?

I feel you. I am in the proccess of making my mr2 into a r/t system just like the a5 tippmanns. I have allready adapted the cyclone feeder because of the whole electric hoper thing. I will keep you posted when I make better progress.

Halucin8
02-03-2007, 04:15 PM
lets se the pics of the cyclone feed system on a spyder and a video of it shooting. I would love to see it as would most of the guiys here

Glasher
02-03-2007, 04:25 PM
Ya indeed prolly how you did it also cuz I would go tru all the trounble to have a cyclone feed on ym MR2

lugate01
02-07-2007, 06:43 PM
Hey guys sorry its been a while but I just got back into town. I am trying to post my picsa but im having a hard time. I'll keep trying.

Philly_Dog
02-08-2007, 09:10 AM
If you want a non-electronic hopper, just get a qloader. Up to 30bps and no batteries required.

As for a shorted out board, you could try to find a way to waterproof your trigger frame, or buy a second board for standby. How much do they go for?

ViperX
02-08-2007, 11:08 AM
***Hey guys, quick tip for all you E framers(should be everyone here)***

WATERPROOF YOUR BOARDS!!! It will protect it from moisture, condensation and water/paint, dust, the list goes on.

Cheap way:
Get some slow cure epoxy(fast cure gets too hot and may cause damage). Mix it up half and half(follow the instructions). Remove the board from the marker, and disconnect all of the wire connectors(do this before mixing the epoxy). Use a very small/fine paintbrush, like an artist brush(smaller the better) dip the tip into the epoxy and carefully apply it thinly and evenly over all the compenents of the board. Keep in mind not to get it into the switch or clog up your charge port or wire connectors with it or completely fill in the mounting holes. The idea here is to cover the legs of the components and any exposed wiring on the board and coat all of the components. Do 1 side at a time and let it dry completely before turning it over to do the backside. The entire process if you do it correctly will take 2 days if you allow 24 hrs to allow the epoxy to comletely cure.

~No, this will not cause any damage to your board as long as you don't get the epoxy someplace you don't want it. So use the fine tip, small brush and only mix up the epoxy when your ready to use so it is nice and fluid.

~Take your time and remember it's better to use small amounts and add on then to gob it up and then try to clean it out of switches and connectors.

~This same process is used to protect military grade electronics and aircraft components that are subject to a constantly changing environment that would allow condensation to build up on sensitive electronic equipment.

~There are MILSPEC products out there that made for doing this very thing, they are more expensive and sometimes harder to get a hold of. However epoxy you can buy at any hardware store or walmart can do the exact same thing. This process is known as CONFORMAL COATING.

Check these links out for more info if you still have doubts:

Conformal coating process video. http://www.dymax.com/products/electronic/conformal_coatings.php?gclid=CLfFvbK6n4oCFQk_gQodF w6Zhg

If you wanted to buy a specific product.
http://www.techspray.com/conformalcoatings.htm


Now if anyone would like to see an MR2 board with this done, let me know and I'll do one with pics so you can see the process.

MR2 Woodsballer
02-08-2007, 12:31 PM
I would like to see a MR2 board done. I would consider doing this to mine but I would like to see the process first. (I wouldn't want to screw it up) By the way great input.