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View Full Version : Different Q about Pilot Cocking Knob


Critical
01-22-2007, 03:07 PM
Does the Pilot have the same problem with the cocking knob coming out with aftermarket bolts?

ross * pilot
01-22-2007, 03:25 PM
ive never had one, or heard of one that has... except, i have heard problems about the NDZ equalizer bolt.. i think its too big and damages the chamber. Stay on the safe side and either get a Bandit Bolt or Alamo Bolt, or if you want, keep the ACS and knock off the backplate.

vwjimmy
01-22-2007, 03:53 PM
The problem seems to be caused by the cocking knob striking the back of the slot in the top of the body...if this is the case (and we are pretty sure it is) then it can and will happen with any bolt...
I think the most permenant cure for the issue is to slightly enlongate the slot in the body. You could file it out to make the slot longer toward the rear of the marker thus preventing the cocking pin from striking the body.
Good luck and welcome to the forums!

tnballer
01-22-2007, 06:08 PM
yes the problem still exist with after market knobs i have lost 4 total the stock and 3 after market i have now filed the groove and have not have any trouble yet i am pondering just keeping the knob in my pocket but if you need it in a hurry where do you want it in your gun so next step i will more than likely go rear cocking

hodni_sania
01-22-2007, 07:00 PM
I have the orange wasp bolt and yeah the pin still hits the front of the opening it hasnt come out but then again i havent used it all that much. You would think the manufacturers of the aftermarket stuff would see that.

Critical
01-22-2007, 07:44 PM
Okay, so even when I upgrade my bolt to the Bandit bolt (which is the plan, this will be my third Spyder and I'm ready to make the jump to LP) the cocking knob could still hit the slot ends. When I pull out the handy Dremel, I've got two questions; one, how much is it safe to remove at either end of the slot and still maintain o-ring seal but eliminate the strike? 1/8"? Secondly, what is the best bit to use?

Halucin8
01-22-2007, 08:41 PM
you should only hve to take off metal at the rear of the marker and you can take it out all the way to the back and have the slot not end. much like my dragun T-1

spyderaron
01-23-2007, 02:06 PM
I think I found out why the knob keeps falling off. I knoticed that when I had the velocity up high the knob would come off. When I turned it down it stoped. This could be it! I'm gona try it sometime and someplace where I won't lose the knob.

Is there any other way to keep the knob in without filling my marker?

sidekick
01-24-2007, 07:17 PM
In short, using the stock pin, no. Not without causing other problem. I put a longer spring in that would get coil bond and would not let the detent ball move. But it caused the pin to bend. I ended up making a custom pin, 1/8" taller and milled the top rail down. I haven't lost a pin since. But I eventually wound up making my gun a rear cocker. Actually it is both, top and rear cocking. I haven't shot any since Dec., we had a warm spell and I got a new Ricochet Apache hopper and had to test it out. I put 400 rounds through the gun with no problems.

Sandman_Bravo
01-24-2007, 07:48 PM
Just take a small round file and take about 3/16 off the rear of the slot. Don't change the spring to get it coilbound; you'll just be messing with the velocity if you do.

Critical
01-25-2007, 06:46 PM
What about using a tap and threading a set screw with threads on the inside into it? Then all you would have to do would be screw something with threads into it, locktite it in and it shouldn't move. Will delrin take threads? Aluminum should.

Sandman_Bravo
01-25-2007, 06:53 PM
What about using a tap and threading a set screw with threads on the inside into it? Then all you would have to do would be screw something with threads into it, locktite it in and it shouldn't move. Will delrin take threads? Aluminum should.

If you're going to try and do that, you might as well drill straight through and recess a fixed lock-nut in the underside of the bolt and use a threaded allen head screw for a cocking pin. = less parts and fabricating. If you drilled a slightly undersized countersink hole, then heated the nut and set it into the bolt; it would fuse in place.
All daydreaming aside, I don't think it would work.