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View Full Version : Anodizing the ESP...


aodsnyper
01-18-2007, 06:58 PM
is it possible to anodize the ESP grip frame well? they look cast and i'm not sure of the quality of aluminum used... has anyone tried or seen one re-anodized? pics would be great!

thanks,
Justin

kidonfire
01-19-2007, 09:01 AM
I think it would be able to get anno'd, but I'm not 100% sure. I don't know anything about the process, but I think you would have to take all the internals out of the frame before you get it done.

Hossy
01-19-2007, 09:05 AM
i dont think you can get it done....
but if you do get anything annoed, you have to take all parts out, so they dont get ruined in the process

shunut
01-19-2007, 09:31 AM
but I think you would have to take all the internals out of the frame before you get it done.
but if you do get anything annoed, you have to take all parts out, so they dont get ruined in the process

Wow, nothing like stating the obvious. Apparently you guys are too new to know AOD.


According to my sources, which I highly trust and beleive, it is aluminum, therefore you could anodize it.

Nenkitsune
01-19-2007, 10:21 AM
the only problem i can for see, is that even if it is aluminum, it's a cast, so it isn't that great of quality.

TheRedBarron
01-19-2007, 11:21 AM
I <3 you too Josh.

Hob Hayward
01-19-2007, 12:05 PM
Haha, AOD has returned? You know you never got back to me on that BL millenium body you had. :(

Only problem I can see is stripping off whats on there right now, its some strange powercoat stuff from the looks of it.

shunut
01-19-2007, 01:50 PM
Only problem I can see is stripping off whats on there right now, its some strange powercoat stuff from the looks of it.

Its not that hard if you have a dremel. Its actually pretty soft stuff. The only hard parts to get the paint, powder-coat or ano, whatever it is, off is the tight spots, like where the trigger guard meets the frame. With the dremel though it can be done and doesn't take that long to do. The other good part about using the dremel to do it is all the "seams" and rough spots can be smoothed out.

aodsnyper
01-19-2007, 05:34 PM
thanks for the somewhat definitive answers... lol!

i just wasn't sure of the "quality" of the finish since it is indeed cast. i do believe it is anodized originally but it is somewhat difficult to tell.

- Shu; forgive them for they know not the Spyder enthusiast that i am (and have been for too many a year)... and btw, how did you become a moderator before i? lol!!!

- Hob, i am terribly sorry about my lack of frequency on the boards, i do still have the Milly body if you haven't lost interest or found yet another.


justin

shunut
01-19-2007, 06:14 PM
...and btw, how did you become a moderator before i? lol!!!...

:grin:
I paid otter :wink:

oh, Matt I <3 you too!

Oscum Guy
01-24-2007, 04:29 PM
Its not that hard if you have a dremel. Its actually pretty soft stuff. The only hard parts to get the paint, powder-coat or ano, whatever it is, off is the tight spots, like where the trigger guard meets the frame. With the dremel though it can be done and doesn't take that long to do. The other good part about using the dremel to do it is all the "seams" and rough spots can be smoothed out.
It is very soft. i dremeled in an esp frame to put a pilot trigger in it and to match the external charging port on the camd board. also for external trigger adjusting. it was all done very easily and cleanly and took less than 10 minutes (even when i used a 18v drill with a dremel bit in it).

Hob Hayward
01-24-2007, 06:51 PM
What dremel bit would you actually use, some sort of abrasive thing I'd presume. Do they make a bit that would take the finish off without effecting the metal underneath, because I kindof feel like doing this now. Do they have something like a steelwool bit?

Nenkitsune
01-24-2007, 09:02 PM
i know they have wire brush ends you could use. something like that might work. but i'd stick with good ol' sand paper

08Lud08
01-27-2007, 12:26 PM
It took me like 5 hours to get all of the black paint off the frame when I did it with sandpaper. The only hard thing to do is get the paint off the trigger guard area because of the curves.