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View Full Version : Help w/ eye install on 04' Imagine


guerrero101
11-15-2006, 03:09 PM
Hello everybody,

I just installed a new T-Board and use a eVLution II hopper and the marker now it chops paint like crazy. I want to install eye but i'm not too sure about the eye templet posted on Otter's site, I don't know if it is a good fit. Does anyone have pictures or advice on a 04' Imagine that they could share? If installin bounce beam eye, does it matter what side I drill for the eye? Whats better break-beam or bounce beam?

Thanks,

Hob Hayward
11-15-2006, 03:55 PM
Break beam is generally better than bounce.

As to otter's template. It was wrong when used with an 05 Mongoose.

Are you sure you're outshooting your hopper? Usually chopping like crazy happens from somthing other than low feedrate, not to mention unless you have super fast finger the egg should keep up decently well.

shunut
11-15-2006, 07:18 PM
Some of the newer bodies you just have to modify the template and use different landmarks to like it up. When I do it I cut the template in half and use the detent holes to like up the template. I've done quite a few of these and that always works for me.

guerrero101
11-15-2006, 10:42 PM
Are you sure you're outshooting your hopper? Usually chopping like crazy happens from somthing other than low feedrate, not to mention unless you have super fast finger the egg should keep up decently well.

Before the T-Board VerC was installed my marker had a T-Board VerA with a Magno-trigger from Sun Dragon and 50gram T-Switch but could never get the VerA tuned right. I then ditched the T-Board VerA and went back to the original Kingman board. All was fine until I installed the VerC and tuned it. Now the hopper doesn't seem to keep up even when I install fresh batteries in the hopper. It shoots fine if I just keep a slow steady rhythm.

Some of the newer bodies you just have to modify the template and use different landmarks to like it up. When I do it I cut the template in half and use the detent holes to like up the template. I've done quite a few of these and that always works for me.

If I do break beam then the hole on the left side (looking away from the barrel end) will be within the detent cover. Will I need to get rid of the detent cover and replace it with the Intimidator Eye Cover?

shunut
11-16-2006, 07:02 AM
If I do break beam then the hole on the left side (looking away from the barrel end) will be within the detent cover. Will I need to get rid of the detent cover and replace it with the Intimidator Eye Cover?

No, you can keep the stock detents you just have to modify the timmy eye covers to fit. Although if you go with the Timmy eye covers and detents you can have dual timmy detents which are better than the stock spyder detent IMO.

guerrero101
11-16-2006, 02:47 PM
Thanks for all your help guys.

shunut
11-16-2006, 05:47 PM
NP, tis why we are here.

guerrero101
11-22-2006, 07:52 PM
Guys, I have another question.
Back when I purchased the VerA T-board I had also purchased break beam eye. Today I was testing out the eyes before drilling any holes and the eyes didn't seem to work like they should. Here is my problem.

The Installation manual for the Spyder VerC T-Board says "When in the Eye Alignment Tool, the LED will light up when the eye is properly aligned. If the eye is blocked or misaligned, the LED will NOT light." Im seeing the opposite effect, which is the LED is OFF when aligned and ON when misaligned or blocked. Adjusting the eye potentiometer didn't help. The way I tested this was by securing the eyes on opposite sides the sight rail. I also had ambient light down really low to avoid false readings from the recieving side of the eyes. I sent Scenariodreams an email but it's unlikely I'll hear back from him before Monday. I'd like to get this resolved so I can get a game this weekend with eyes installed.



Thanks,