View Full Version : cocking knob update
11-05-2006, 05:09 PM
Well I lost the cocking knob again. This time it was the one that sidekick made for me. Please understand it happened after prolly 3-4 casses of paint and lasted much longer than the original so great job sidekick. But on to the real reason for this post. The cocking knob actually broke the back of my acs bolt. Anyone else have this happen? If I knew how to post pics i would try and get a good pic of the crack so if someone wants to pm me and teach me how to post a pic or jsut post it for me go ahead amd pm away.
11-05-2006, 05:59 PM
I have a stock replacement if you're interested.
11-05-2006, 06:28 PM
actually sandman i wanted to ask you a question about your bandit bolt.
have you or do you know anyone that has messed with their low-blow bolts? or should i stick with the standard bandit bolt that you used in your lp spyder
11-05-2006, 08:44 PM
i had my cocking knob lost just after 2-3 hoppers. and it was the first time i used the gun. i need a new one now
11-06-2006, 02:58 AM
I had great luck with the Bandit low pressure bolt. The stock acs bolt worked, but I couldn't drop pressures as low as I wanted and it fluctuated a lot in velocity. I remember someone here trying to modify their stock acs bolt by milling in o-ring grooves and it didn't work. I'd say if you are going LP get a good replacement bolt. I've never had a chop with the bandit (when my hopper was turned on-lol) bolt, only barrel breaks; which would have happened anyway.
11-06-2006, 08:32 AM
Sorry to hear about the problem Halucin8. I'm still on my first replacement knob. But I don't play as much as it seems you do. I looked at my ACS bolt and there seems to be a large amount of free play between the delrin body and the aluminum piece. This may be the culprit that caused the damage. This marker has such a heavy recoil, that with too much free play that it could be slamming aluminum body against the delrin body. I'm going to drag mine into work and measure the two and see what is exactly the amount of free play they have. I'm sure that there is wear involved also. My ejection problem didn't start until after couple 1000 rounds had been put through my marker and this sounds about the same for most folks.
Go rear-cocking, its not as hard as you would think to do to your stock or aftermarket bolt (like the bandit bolt that is threaded for the set screw), if your lucky enough to get the set-screw to come out (if not than drill it out) find something that matches the threads and doesn't stick out to far (last thing you want is it smacking your mask and ruining your lense) and loc-tite (thread tape works but I'd recommend loc-tite) it in place. If you want, any of you guys can send me your ACS bolts to me and I'd do it for ya for free. You handle shipping and cocking rod if you want something different than what you see in the attached picture. I just enjoy tinkering and I am starting to run out of things to do to my marker and most of my friends. :D
11-06-2006, 10:14 PM
actually i was thinking of going to a new bolt and i msged i think it was alamocity bolts about what rear cocking bolt would work with the pilot and they said i would need to buy the shutter bolt. does anyone know for sure the shutter will work?
11-07-2006, 06:46 AM
I took my bolt apart and measured the parts; the delrin bodies ID is .507" and the aluminum bodies OD is .495". With a difference of .012", almost 1/64 free play. That seem like a lot of slop.
11-11-2006, 03:08 PM
Could someone please PM me a little more information on this cocking rod issue? I recently picked up a Pilot ACS and may be able to find a solution to your problems.
11-25-2006, 06:07 AM
I recently got this marker and had my cocking knob come loose during a game and it ended up getting bent. I was already planning on replacing the bolt. My question is that if I get a new bolt will it come with a new cocking knob as well, or will I be forced to get a new cocking knob?
11-25-2006, 07:22 AM
that happens to me to. but only when i use co2. except for the breaking part but i know someone that it happened to and it broke the bolt.
11-25-2006, 07:25 AM
not sure on the cocking knob part. I just bought a rear cocking bolt from alamo city and they milled and extra ball detent in it for my pilot. No more cocking knob problems for me.
11-25-2006, 08:02 AM
lucky. i think an electra is compatible with a short back cocking system.
11-25-2006, 12:30 PM
Sounds to me like the problem is that the bolt/striker are able to move too far back, maybe a longer striker buffer would help, or the other option is to mill the cocking slot in the top of the body back a bit further.
11-25-2006, 02:22 PM
About the cocking knob shearing off - look at the chanel in the body that the cocking bolt rides in. Look at the ends of the chanels. Does it appear that the cocking knob is hitting the end of the openings at the front/back? If so, take a dremel and elongate the chanel.
11-25-2006, 06:26 PM
Peeps, as Druid said look at the slot. Also look at the top of the frame at the rear of the slot. If you see any silver showing, the knob is hitting there. It is my opinion that is where the problem lies. This gun recoils pretty hard and there is a good bit of free play between the parts of the ACS bolt. Enough that it allows the knob to hit the frame on the top. This is where mine was hitting causing it to eject. I put a longer spring in to keep the dent ball from moving and bent my pin.
There have been several different thing people have done to correct the problem. But seeing that your marker is new you may want to try contacting Kingman first.
11-25-2006, 06:31 PM
Yeah there is silver showing from where the knob had been grinding against it.
I plan on replacing the bolt anyways to see if that might help, but I dont really want to make it rear cocking, so I plan on putting a standard delrin bolt in there. I was just wondering whether or not the new bolt would have a cocking knob with it or if I would have to use the old one for it.
11-25-2006, 06:41 PM
I really don't know the answer to that. But I'd be willing to bet the answer is no it will not.
11-25-2006, 07:35 PM
I don't know either - but take a dremel to the slot and elongate the back and front by 1/4" each. That will stop the shearing effect and use teflon tape or fingernail polish on the cocking knob threads.
11-26-2006, 08:11 AM
the cocking knob doesnt have threads.
11-26-2006, 12:51 PM
the cocking knob doesnt have threads.
so it's the intimidator/Cocker style?
or is it the style that's locked in with a screw in the back of the bolt?
hrmmmmm...either way, fingernail polish obviously won't work...oops...lol...
well...my 'fix' for the cocking rod slot still stands. Elongate the slot so the knob stops hitting the body.
12-04-2006, 05:41 PM
will the evil bolt work its rear cocking also where would i find a beaver tail
12-04-2006, 07:12 PM
Look around where they sell Autococker parts, thats the best place to get a beavertail. they should work on a spyder frame too, though I'm not positive. I'd go with the elongation of cocking slot/removal of it altogether (cut all the way to back) then you don't have to even bother tanking the pin out ever, and the ejection/bending will be solved at the same time.
12-04-2006, 07:50 PM
Sorry but I don't agree with what you are saying. The knob of the cocking pin is hitting is at the top of the frame, not the pin hitting back of the slot. Opening the slot all the back will not stop the knob from hitting the top of the frame. There is at least 1/8" clearance between the pin and the slot at the end of the stroke. At least there is on my gun. There were signs on top of the frame, silver showing through the anno. While the slot is still nice and red.
I tried several thing before I milled the top rail down 1/8" and made a pin 1/8' taller than the stocker. No more problems for me.
The ACS bolt has way to much freeplay between the delrin body and the aluminum body, almost 1/64". That and the fact that the gun has a pretty heavy recoil allows the knob to hit the frame.
12-07-2006, 04:35 PM
still no answer to my question will the evil bolt work
12-07-2006, 09:55 PM
it should as long as you do not have the the back plate above the velocity adjuster. mine broke off so was not an issue. I put in an alamo City "Low-Blow" bolt rear cocking in my pilot acs