View Full Version : MR3 LP Project

10-11-2006, 09:31 AM
I'm so enthused about ballin, that I think I'm going to attempt to outfit my gun with low pressure.

Here's the parts list so far:
Bolt: stock Delrin/Venturi -- I'll probably yank the venturi
LP Valve: Madman Rocket
Vertical Adapter: 32 Degrees Stainless Steel
LP Chamber: 32 Degrees (blacK)
Hammer: Dark Horizon polished Titanium
Springs: 32 Degrees Spring Kit
Regulator: CP Bob Long LP Reg (long version)

If anyone else has managed to do this, I would appreciate any tips.

The only thing I'm missing is a new bottomline. This way, I'll still have all the original parts in case it doesn't work.

I've ordered all the parts. I hope to have them by Friday. I figure I can work on it over the weekend. I know there'll be a little more modding to do (i.e. boring, sanding, polishing, etc), so I may not get it all done.

The only other thing I need is a Chrony for accurate testing.

I'll post updates as I go along, in case anyone else wants to do this too.

Well, I've run into my first snag. Got the LPC today only to find that it needs to be milled. Then I'll have to drill & thread 2 holes in order to match it to the shroud.

I also discovered that I didn't need the vertical adapter. The CP long reg has about an inch of depth before hitting the reg part. That should mean more volume for the LP. I'm still waiting for the valve.

In the mean time, I'll be looking for a machine shop first thing tomorrow. Wish me luck!

10-13-2006, 06:09 PM
There's a much more simple resolve for the LPC: Since you have the Rocket valve, simply cut off the raised area that holds the valve spring, of the reservoir adapter plug(#254) and drill it out. Voila! Instant LPC -

10-16-2006, 02:58 PM
There's a much more simple resolve for the LPC: Since you have the Rocket valve, simply cut off the raised area that holds the valve spring, of the reservoir adapter plug(#254) and drill it out. Voila! Instant LPC -

Yeah, that would definitely be quick & easy, but I don't always go that route. Besides, I'm making sure that I can re-convert the marker back to original stock condition (just in case). So, no mods to any original parts. In any event, the new LPC gives me an extra 3 inches of volume! The tip ends just inside the very edge of the shroud...perfect fit!

Also, I dremmeled the heck out of the LPC with only one small error. The second screw used to connect the metal shroud, was just a little off on the angle. When I put the shroud back in place, it was slightly twisted. It's not noticeable once I put on the plastic cover.

I had to trim down the new valve too. The SRP was all the way down to it's first threads, just so I could get the hammer past the blow-by hole.

It turns out that I didn't need the vertical adapter. The original one is just a straight through hole. Can you say max airflow?

I did replace the bottom line with a new CP one. It's got 4 ports inside giving it really good flow. I'll be using macro lines on it.

All that's left to test it is the CP Long regulator. I ordered it last Monday night, but the guy didn't ship it until Saturday! That really sucked. What's worse is that it's coming from California! I'm not sure it was worth saving $15 bucks. For the extra $15, I could've bought it at my local shop!

My only concern is the bolt. As it's plastic with no o-rings, I'm afraid it's going to allow too much blowback. Once I get the reg, I'll take another look at the fit.

Does anyone know if silicone is okay on plastics? I've got silicone spray & was thinking of spraying both the hammer & bolt to make it all slide easier.

Also, is it still okay to put a few drops of oil in your line, then shoot blanks (to lube the line) even if you have a reg installed?

Let me know.

In the mean time, I'm waiting for the reg, my new Empire barrel condom, XRadar chrono, and new Red Dot scope. I'm going to make this a mean little MR3 by the time I'm done!

Got the first protype LP chamber. The guys were off on a couple of measures as was I. The o-ring groves need another 1/64" and the top 2 1/2" needs to be milled to a 17/32" OD. I could've still made it work, but they drilled the holes in the wrong place.

I'll check back in when the second prototype is ready.

Well, the first machined prototype didn't work. No problem, I changed the design specs & provided the original plug as a reference. This time, I'm sure the guys will get it right.

I finally got my CP Long regulator. I decided to run some tests using the modified LPC I made. Whadda'ya'no! It worked! To my amazement, using my lightest main spring, it was recocking @ 195psi. There were a couple of leaks because there wasn't enough pressure at first to close the valve, and also because I didn't tighten down the gague enough.

It was already night time, so I didn't do too much velocity testing. But, I was getting 275 fps @ a little over 300 psi! Now all I need is the aftermarket bolt I ordered (with 3 o-rings), the final prototype LPC, and some tweaking...then I'm done! I was getting some velocity spikes, but I had read that the reg needs a couple of boxes of paint before it stabilizes and breaks in. I am wondering how (if possible) I can adjust dwell.

Well, I'll post an update after the weekend. By then, I should be done with everything.

10-19-2006, 11:36 PM
wow man thats pretty cool. i didnt know you could make an MR3 run lp, my next marker is going to be either and MR3 or MR2 and i would def convert it to lp. good job dude

10-20-2006, 08:52 PM
Thanks Raf.

So, I thought I could market a LPC for the MR series markers. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like enough people want in. Therefore, that idea is dead. Thankfully I milled my own piece and still have a pro machine shop making a design for free.

Now, I'll tell you how I did it all. First, the parts list:

MaddMan Rocket Valve - turned SRP down to first thread, then trimmed off the metal

Next, 32 Degrees Black LPC - used a dremel to grind down the threads, then milled all the way down the body to get it to fit in the shroud. I also cut a second o-ring groove, then tapped two holes for mounting.

CP Long black regulator - mounted it to the stock vertical adapter

CP direct mount bottom line - it has 4 nice ports for airflow and mounts directly to the grip

Bob Long 0-600 PSI gauge

Bob Long Macro Line kit

Custom, 3 o-ring, black, MR3 bolt made by Alamo City PB

DH Titanium Hammer

32 Degrees Spring Pack


Dremel, drill, + all bits

*Test results:

Full Auto recocking at 195 PSI

I used the black spring, left the MaddMan stock spring, & I now have it set for 295 fps (peak) at 300 PSI, the velocity adjusted to 2/3.

But wait...that's not all! I decided to keep the gauge in place & leave the option to adjust the regulator. So, I drilled holes in the plastic shroud. Now the gauge is permanent & I have access to the pressure adjustments.

I also bought an X-Radar chrono & a red dot sight.

Here are some pics of the final production.

Well, maybe not. I tried to reduce the pics, but it wasn't enough. Oh well.

I was really eager to test it out, even before I got the new bolt. I had a couple of leaks and lost a lot of air. I also lost air at the burping point and from my remote (the cutoff was leaking) too. All I can say is 88/4500 goes fast when you have leaks.

After fixing the leaks I started testing using the J&J Phantom barrel. Bad move. I was chopping paint because the barrel doesn't quite fit all the way into the marker. No problem, continued with basics but it got too dark to continue.

Today, I had some time to work on it. That's where I made measurements to drill out the plastic shroud. After I finally pieced everything together, I had a leak from the gauge. More teflon and another half turn took care of that. So, on with testing.

I put the pressure back up to 300 PSI and gave some test shots. Nice...250s. I gave a couple of turns on the velocity, 275. I cranked it up to about 2/3 the way in and ouala! It's peaking at 295! This time I used the Apex barrel which fits nicely. A half hopper went to measurements & sighting the scope. The other half went full auto without a single chop! Very Nice!

After sighting in, my grouping was about 12", despite some serious winds, at 75'. I still wanted to check out why the marker was peaking. As it turns out, the new bolt was a very tight fit. I discovered that it wasn't fully recocking. That explained the peaks. I decided not to waste any more ammo. Instead, I ran the tank out at full auto just to break in the new bolt.

The bolt was still tight, so I manually pushed & pulled the bolt through the receiver until it smoothed out. It's still a little stiff, but I'm pretty sure it will be fully broken in at my next game. I can see the wear lines on it where the plastic contacts the receiver.

Now, I'm doing my tests using an Apex barrel. You would think I would give the barrel a few trick tests. Unfortunately, that was not the case. My back yard is only roughly 75' wide. Not enough for the spin to kick in. I can't shoot outside the yard because housing here is a litlle crowded. The Apex tests will have to wait until I can find a good practice spot.

Well, there you have it! MR3 shooting 285-295 fps @ 300 PSI. Lawrence (Quick Shot Paintball owner) more or less swore that it wouldn't work. He'll get a chance to see it tomorrow. Besides, I need to fill my HPA.


10-22-2006, 03:39 AM
Thanks for the info folks, to my mr3 out for my first match today, it was about 100 people and A-5 heaven for most, I didnt see 1 Mr out there including even an Mr2, I cronoed at 260 and tried to get it a bit higher but my hands were too darn cold to turn it up to 280, I figured it would go up a bit when the weather warmed up a bit anyway.

Even using the stock feeder 1 st match performed flauless in full and semi w/eyes, second match 1 ball chop in full auto(no biggie) third match chopped 1 more time and blew it out with the (standard) JJ barrel.

Next match going to use the Vlocity feeder, should fix the small chop issue.

Great Marker.

Any more suggestions to keep fine tuning keep posting, kept hearing the comments at the match today in A-5 territory (whisper, hey thats one of those new mr3's, lets keep an eye on that marker)

10-22-2006, 03:37 PM
Mickey, I'm glad to hear you had a great day with the MR3. Honestly, this marker works great when matched with the right hopper. It may not be pinpoint accurate, but it is distinctive and shoots well.

As for mine, I've done a few touch-ups and need to test it again.

I noticed that less than half the shots required double-pulls. After reading the hammer review again, I decided that I would grind down the striker. While I was at it, I polished it up really good. Since I was already polishing, I decided to polish the sear too. It came out nicely.

I also did a little trimming on the MaddMan valve stem. I thought maybe I wasn't getting enough compression.

Before these latest touchups, I noticed the striker sticking. After the first grind, I let it run full auto blanks for at least a minute and it stopped sticking. I grinded a little more & polished to be on the safe side.

I noticed that I could turn the pressure up to 400 PSI, change springs, and the velocity was still jumping between 260 & 295. I decided that I'm going to remove the LPC & re-install the plug. I'm thinking I may have too much volume. The only problem is that the plug is still at the machine shop, and I'm out of HPA. I couldn't make it to Quickshot before they closed. Looks like I'll have to postpone additional testing/fine tuning until at least Wednesday.

10-23-2006, 05:01 PM
Okay, I did some more testing today to try & locate the sweet spot.

I'm using the lightest 32* main spring from the kit I bought. At 300 PSI, I'm peaking at 295 fps. That's with the spring turned in 1 1/2 turns! The problem I have is my fps is not consistent.

:confused: Can anyone suggest what else I need to do to make the shots more consistent? I calculated the volume of the LPC at about 3.8 cubic inches.

I've dremmeled & polished the titanium hammer so the firing is a lot smoother.

The bolt is a plastic replica of the original, except the back end is trimmed down and it has o-rings.

The CP Long has about an inch of gap between the regulating components & the stock vertical adapter. Plus, I must have already shot at least 1000 paintballs & another 1000 blanks. The reg should've stabilized a bit.

Why is it jumping +/- 10 fps? I'm using a carbon-fiber HPA tank pre-regulated at 850 PSI and the reg is rated for 900 input. Do I need to switch out the tank reg with an LP one (500 psi)?

Even shooting at 400 psi, the fps varies quite a bit.

I can live with it peaking at 295 fps, but I would much rather have the consistency. So, any ideas out there?

Hob Hayward
10-23-2006, 05:40 PM
No need to switch tanks. I'd sugegst trying the stock non LPC. If the bolt is still sticking, polish it up with some really high grit sandpaper, it helps a bit, plus if you have o-rings, it won't need to be quite so tight a fit to the body.

Have you looked at sundragons MR series LP guide? And also try the stock and heavy main spring, sometimes things work out where different springs will be more consistent. Its hard to say.

Sounds awesome though, good luck getting it to work!

10-23-2006, 07:12 PM
I tried the stock spring & the 32* gold. The pressure was up to 350-400. I couldn't quite find the sweet spot. When I went back to the black spring, The sweet spot was right there at 300 PSI.

Now, I found & studied Otters Customs info on LP setups. I couldn't find Sundragon's LP guide. Either way, I can't get the consistency down using any of the springs I have. I tried stock, 2 Pirana springs, and all the 32* springs. Black yielded the best velocity/pressure ratio. Once I got over 300 psi with the black spring, I started losing velocity.

I can't change the valve spring. I'll have to wait until Wednesday to see if maybe I have too much volume. That's about when I'll see my plug (machine shop has it). There's got to be at least 10 cubic inches in there. Is that just too much or what? Could the reg be choking trying to fill that much space?

10-23-2006, 07:29 PM
Here's how it looks with the Apex.

10-23-2006, 08:46 PM
Quite frankly, I'm getting a little tired of merging your posts. Please use the edit button from now on. Double or tripple posting or upping your thread is against forum rules. Thanks ;)

Hob Hayward
10-24-2006, 02:11 PM
Hmm, well never heard of too much volume, but there is the possiblity that its recharging slower than it should and somehow being inconsistent. Try different combinations of parts such as the stock striker and stock bolt to figure out where the problem is coming from. Forget about having high velocity, just try and make it consistent for now.

10-24-2006, 02:48 PM
Cool! You got a reg. into the foregrip, that's very interesting.

10-25-2006, 10:43 AM
Looks like a paintball mag just came out with there review on the MR3, I dont know the name of the mag off the top of my head but ill get it and post later today. It was a great review and they had a few suggestions there too :)

10-31-2006, 11:10 AM
What is the advatage of low-pressure versus just putting a quality regulator on the gun?

10-31-2006, 12:20 PM
What is the advatage of low-pressure versus just putting a quality regulator on the gun?

Better air efficiency and quieter operation.

11-06-2006, 07:26 PM
I went back to the drawing board a litlle on this project. I had trimmed the rocketvalve down a little too much so I ordered another one. I also found some leaks.

I went ahead & ordered a new valve & rebuild kit (figured I'd stick one in the Pirahna). I trimmed the valve a little an thought it was working better. Come to find out, the valve was sticking a lot! Then I realized that the threads at the SRP were causing the problem. So, I used a pencile to push the striker all the way into the valve, then went ahead and trimmed the valve down a little at a time until it was a smooth operation.

When it got too late to shoot, I decided to kill the leaks. Wow, I had to really crank down on all the fittings on the reg! The one thing that really sucks now is that I have to remove the gauge every time I need to remove the plastic cover!

Next I put a VerC T-Board in. I had problems with it though, because the eyes didn't seem to want to work. I emailed Damon about Saturday & he replied today. He thought the eyes might be bad. After I tried his suggestion to flash a bright light at the eyes, I realized that the sensor might have been behaving in reverse. So, I reversed the wires on the connector & bingo! Now my eyes work! I replied to Damon & told him what happened.

So, on to testing again. I was still having the instability issues. I'm hoping the next test is a bit more stable now that all the leaks are gone.

I did have one screw up. I had a hard time finding a replacement sear spring. Quickshot had a trigger spring for an Autococker that looked really close, so I bought it Sunday morning. When I went to put it in my MR, I couldn't find it! That really sucks! Now I have to wait until Lawrence reopens on Wednesday.

For those who are looking to go LP the way I did, I've already listed a majority of the parts in my earlier posts. When I'm finally done, I'll post the list again and try to post pictures.

Until Wednesday!

*************************************************U PDATE 11/9/2006********************************************** *****

Okay...the sweet spot is somewhere between 275 & 300 psi. I'm having a difficult time getting the velocity stable. I've also been having a hard time going 25 bps with the T-Board. As it turns out, the tape I put on the blowback hole pops out when I go full auto. So, today, I got an Intimidator trigger spring and used it to replace the sear spring. It's way lighter now.

I also bought a tap & die kit so I could thread the blowback hole. I had to take a 8-32 set screw & cut it in half. After I threaded the blowback hole, I had to take the dremel out again to remove the burrs inside the compression chamber because it was interfering with the striker. I used blue locktite on the set screw when I was done. I also found that the set screw was sticking out just a wee bit and it was interfering with the trigger adjustment. No problem, took care of that too.

I readjusted the trigger while I was at it. I think I set it perfectly 'cause it seems like I can walk 12-15 bps now. I'll know tomorrow.

I've had people PM me about where to get the parts. So, I'm going to run down the list again. I don't think I need to poast every single website. Just run the list through Google and I'm sure you'll find it.

1. Bolt: Alamo City Paintball MR3 Replacement Bolt w/ 3 O-rings
Note: I removed the first o-ring

11-09-2006, 06:17 PM
1. Bolt: Alamo City Paintball, Black MR3 Replacement Bolt w/ 3 O-rings
Note: I removed the first o-ring because it was breaking detents. I also had to sand it down a bit because it was binding.

2. Striker: Dark Horizon Titanium (long thin one)
Note: I made the nub almost flush with the leading edge of the striker. I also had to grind the sear catch area to round it back out and thin the line down (more like the original striker). I also sanded down a couple of areas that were binding. Then I polished the striker well (twice).

3. Valve: Maddman Products Rocket-valve
Note: The first time, I trimmed the stem all the way to the last thread. I got a new one plus rebuild kit. This time I kept checking the adjustment, pulling out the valve, trimming a little, then rechecking. The way I checked it was taking off the trigger, with valve installed, and bolt/striker in the chamber, I used a pencil to push the striker in until it touched the valve stem. I made a note of where it was at, then quickly pushed the striker all the way in feeling for any binding of the valve. Through earlier experiments, I found that the extra threads were sticking in the valve causing it to reseat improperly and also causing stutters. I continued trimming the stem a little at a time until the striker pushed all the way without any binding. One thing to note is that the valve is vented on the striker side. This is to provide more air to recock the marker at lower pressures. The MR3 has a compression relief hole on the receiver right above where your trigger is. I call this the blowback hole. I tried using electrical tape to cover this hole, but it kept failing.

4. Regulator: Custom Products Long Regulator with Gauge ports
Note: This fit inside the plastice handle perfectly. I used the stock vertical adapter as it was completely flow-through (no dimples or anything for mounting a bottle). Also, the reg kept twisting loose inside the handle so I applied a little gasket maker to the threading (just enough to keep it from turning).

5. Low Pressure Chamber: 32 degrees Volumizer/Expansion Chamber/Low Pressure Chamber (Black, Ridged)
Note: I really had to do some serious mill work on this LPC. Using the stock plug as a model (and a dremmel as my hand-held lathe), I cut a second grove to accommodate a second o-ring. Then I checked the fit through the metal shroud. Oh yeah, serious milling! ;-) Then, I measured the holes for the screws, drilled and tapped. I make sure to use teflon whenever I mount the LPC & shroud back in. ** You have to crank down on the screws to the maximum possible without causing any typ of stripping. If you plan on doing this, be very careful not to strip the threads! **

6. ASA: Custom Products "Screw-Through" ASA
Note: Removed stock drop/ASA & replaced it. It has four air holes and no screens. If you're using CO2, you might want to put a screen on it to help keep the typical contaminants that go along with CO2.

7. Air Lines: Custom products Macro-line kit
Note: I tried to get an elbow on the reg, but it just wasn't deep enough. Make sure the macro fitting is tightened all the way down into both the regulator and ASA. I had leakage until I cranked down on them. I really like how easy the line is to insert/remove.

8. Trigger Board: Scenario Dreams VerC T-Board
Note: I had problems with the eyes. After some troubleshooting, I realized the photosensor wires were reversed. I also had a problem with the EP jumper popping out while in full auto. I have the dwell set to 2 ms, Debounce at 5 ms, and eye delay to 15 ms. I was able to shoot 25 bps until the tape popped off the blowback hole. After that, the valve seated improperly and the striker wouldn't reset it.

9. Gauge: Bob Long 0-600 PSI
Note: You can use any gauge for testing. I decided that I wanted to keep the gauge on my MR3 so I made extra modifications. You'll need to crank down a bit on this gauge or else you'll have leaks.

10. Grips: Dye Sticky 3 (Black)
Note: I had to trim the whole top portion of the grip to fit the MR3. Then I had to ream the top mounting hole downwards until it matched the mounting hole on the marker. It wasn't a perfect job, but it works. I really like these grips! They are definitely sticker and provide a larger circumference that fits my hand much better than the stock grips. I also like the clear plastice down the center with the LCD bezel. It lights up just lovely with the T-Board! Could be a problem at night though.

11. Sight: Adco Hot Shot Red Dot
Note: This is a very nice little sight. It's single-lensed with a red filyer so you opponent doesn't see it. Caution--your opponent may be able to see the dot if it's very dark. I chose this sight because it fits both the wide & narrow mounts, the single lens makes it easy to sight with both eyes open, it's short, sweet, and simple, and because the reviews were decent. Best of all it has a full 1 year paintball warranty. Few people reported problems (of course it was after the sight was hit several times). Those guys called the company, sent in the sight, and got brand new ones.

12. Sear Spring: Intimidator Trigger Spring (light, black)
Note: No one currently has a sear spring for the MR3. I just happended to ask about it at Quickshot. Lawrence was able to find this spring. When I saw it, I was sure it was close enough. Mind you, the diameter is a little wider than the stock spring and it's a little longer, so it won't sit in that little hole under the sear. What makes this spring work is that it is really ligh without being too light, the trigger has a little area under the sear that helps keep the spring in place, and the sear doesn't protrude above the trigger assembly too much. All in all, the spring fit perfectly! I dry fired at 25 bps with no shifting of the spring.

13. Main Springs: Mixed 32 Degrees & Maddman Products Spring Kits
Note: I keep switching and testing but I'm still having consistency issues. The best consistency was at a little over 200 PSI, Black 32* spring, stable at 251 fps +/- 0. Sorry, but that's just not going to cut it with me! I have to have it at 290 fps! I want to cause pain! :-D I put the red springs in and it was shooting above 311 fps. Even at 200 PSI it was in the 290s & higher (adjuster all the way out). I decided not to use it because I might have recocking issues when I shoot at 25 bps.

14. Barrel #1: J&J 14" Ceramic Phantom
Note: At first, I had issues with this barrel and didn't see any improvement over the stock barrel. Now, this barrel does work really well! There are two things you need to do to get it on the MR3. First, put a good o-ring on the top-most grove. Don't use a regular thin barrel o-ring. Then put a little o-ring grease on it. Second, when putting it on your MR3, you really have to crank down on it. Make sure it goes as far into the breach as it can. I didn't realize the threading is a little short and that it will not mate with the breach properly. If you can work it all the way, the gap is minimized and it works flawlessly.

15. Barrel #2: Apex Spyder Barrel
Note: This barrel is truly SICK!! Straight, float, curve, holy sh*t! Without the spin, it's still pretty accurate. If you want accuracy, get something like the J&J. But, if you want SICK and are willing to give up a little bit of accuracy, then get this Apex. Just remember, the spin & accuracy are a trade off...the more spin, the less accurate. You can go 150 feet easy, but you'll be luck to get within a foot of your target. Though, this distance will work excellent as cover fire or to create a decoy without taking hits.


1. Blowback hole: I had to thread it with a 8-32 tap, then I had to cut a set screw in half. The hole needs to be covered, especially with high rates of fire. I used blue locktite on the screw so it doesn't pop out. Keep in mind, you may only need to do this if you use the rocket valve (this valve has a vent for the striker). Don't cover the hole if you're using another valve.

2. Plastic Shroud Cover/Handle: I wanted to keep the gauge on my MR. So I made a large hole where the gauge port is at the reg. I found a 1/4" air fitting extension with a hex on it for wrenching. It sticks out a bit more than I would like. But if I didn't extend the gauge out, it would put pressure on the reg and bind the handle. I decided the binding was a bad idea. I also milled an opening for the reg adjustment.

11-09-2006, 06:19 PM

I'm proud of my self for the work I've accomplished. It goes to show how "committed" I am! With the money I spent so far, you can see I'm very committed.

I'm still having consistency issues, but then I haven't tested it since I plugged the blowback hole.

I've actually reached high velocities at 200 PSI. I just want to make the pressure higher because the T-Board is very fast and I want enough pressure to keep up with the ROF. Also, I think the reg likes being at 275-300 psi. I was getting a little better stability with the Maddman green spring.

The LP setup with the J&J barrel is awesome! You only hear 2 quick sounds: 1. the striker hitting then recocking; 2. The board getting slammed with a paintball! You guys won't believe how quiet this setup is compared to the stock marker. My brother-in-law is a 3rd degree blackbelt with no fear and he is actually telling me that "after every thing you did to that gun, I'm afraid to get hit with it!"

The ROF is awesome. I'm tempted to see how fast it will shoot. To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't use that speed in a game. But it damn sure is nice to intimidate your opponent by letting him hear the quiet sprays coming out of your seriously modded Spyder MR3!

I took some pictures using my cell phone, but they came out crappy. I'll try to bust out the camera this weekend and provide some pics.

I know this is a really long post, but someone complained about doing multiple posts.

Anyway, now you have the whole story on this one.

Can I get some feedback from some of you? Thanks in advance!

PS: Sorry about the multiple posts. The # of characters was limited.

If this is a problem, then go ahead and delete the posts. It'll be okay. I'm only just trying to contribute to the forum.