View Full Version : cocking pin came off again!!!
ok this is the second time my acs cocking pin came off and its really pissing me off.. after the first time i got a new one and put it on there and i just played today with the new one and after about a hopper full it came off again! but of course i was playing in the tall grass and i could not find it,therefore, leaving me to have to buy another one! what is a solution for this without buying another bolt, im going to buy another pin,but all i want is the damn thing to stay on. please help.
09-30-2006, 09:58 PM
Call Kingman @ 1-888-kingman, ask for a tech and tell them your prob. They'll most likely send you another bolt that will hold the cocking pin in -
09-30-2006, 10:05 PM
Check out this thread....
dragon- i did not buy the gun from kingman, you think they will still send the bolt to me? and i was looking at a thread a while back of the same problem and someone said to get a heat torch to heat the screw part at the end of the acs bolt to turn since it is loc-tite or something. so what exactly do i need to do in order to take off the plastic part around the bolt?! thanks
10-01-2006, 05:54 AM
We need a sticky on the cocking bolt/pin. It seems every few weeks there's a post on a new person who's "lost" their pin.
The pilot has a top cocking pin that has been known to have some problems:
1) It can be lost from the bolt during use. Sundragon Paintball is one supplier who carries replacements.
2) It can be very difficult to remove from the bolt, making bolt removal impossible. Try a few drops of marker oil around the base and pull while twisting. If needed use pliers. Remember to pull straight up and away from the bolt, never pry at an angle.
3)The pin is held in place by a set screw pushing against a spring, which pushes against a small ball bearing. This spring tension holds the pin in place by wedging the ball bearing against a groove in the bottom of the pin. You can adjust the tightness (that holds the cocking pin) by turing the set screw in or out. Remember it has loc-tite on it and may need mild heat with a hair dryer. Do not over heat a delrin bolt; it's plastic and will melt or distort shape.
10-01-2006, 08:37 AM
This just my opinion, but I believe the gun has a design flaw. I did not have any problem with mine until I hit the over 1000 rounds had been shot. I started to notice the anodizing was getting marred on the top rail at the reward stroke of the cycle. The frame rail is to high and the tolerances for the ACS bolt are a bit on the loose side and as the gun is fired this gets even looser.
You can do one of a few different things. You can continue buying the stock cocking bolt pin and continue loosing it. This is the preverbal exercise in futility. Doing the same thing over and over again, exspecting different results.
You could take and mill the top rail down 1/16" and give the cocking bolt some clearance. Which is what I did, as well as fabricate a cocking pin 1/8" taller than the stock one. This solved my ejection problems, with either cocking pins, the stock one or my fabricated one.
Remember any modification to the gun voids the warranty.
10-01-2006, 10:24 AM
ya, just call kingman or go to their site, or find the nearest registered kingman manufacturer, and show it to them. :)
10-01-2006, 04:43 PM
dragon- i did not buy the gun from kingman, you think they will still send the bolt to me?..........
Only one way to find out eh? - ;)
Here are a couple of mod's you could consider. I did both with common hand tools and although the rear cocking mod has been the best fix the mod with the lanyard from the cocking pin to the cotter pin worked as well.
wow those are pretty cool.. what did you use to make the bolt mod? like how did you get whatever you used to stick on the end of the bolt enough where you can even pull on it and not come off? thanks
10-03-2006, 04:08 AM
Does the extra weight from the rear cocking pin create any inertia that can cause the ACS to partially engage? The reason I ask is someone here had milled o-rings on a stock ACS bolt and that little bit of drag engaged or partially compressed the bolt when firing, creating more problems. Just curious.
first question...I drilled out the set screw, the one everybody tries to tighten and ends up stripping, then removed the spring and ball. I found a bolt that I liked the shape and size of and then match it to a tap and CAREFULLY tapped the hole. I used thread tape to make sure it wouldn't back out. It has worked perfectly, absolutely no negative impact on operation what so ever. Key things to keep in mind when choosing a cocking device is how far it sticks out when cocked. A friend of mine bought an aftermarket rear-cocking ACS bolt and first time out ruined his brand new E-Vent lens, he forgot how far it came back while firing and gouged the Sh*t out of his lense, so be careful.
10-03-2006, 11:55 AM
Key things to keep in mind when choosing a cocking device is how far it sticks out when cocked. A friend of mine bought an aftermarket rear-cocking ACS bolt and first time out ruined his brand new E-Vent lens, he forgot how far it came back while firing and gouged the Sh*t out of his lense, so be careful.
Now he knows what those 'Beavertails' are for :)
You said it, I tried talking him into milling it down or ginstalling a beavertail before he used it but he insisted he didn't need too, Like my dad used to say, sometimes you just gotta let em learn.