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Paintball0308
09-20-2006, 05:58 PM
I just put a regulator on my gun and I got it chronographed and it was at 270fps 5 times and there was no drop off and good consistincy. Today when I was dry firing I noticed that there was alot of co2 smoke coming out of my barrel and feed neck and when I was shooting for every shot there was a second shot like a half cycle. Is this because I wasnt shooting it without paintballs or was it because the reg didnt let the co2 expand. Also does it even matter if there is co2 smoke? Its a t-1 kit reg on my spyder imagine. I already know I need parts to make it operate good but I have the pressure at about 800 so I know that its not because my gun pressure is too low. Anyone have and idea why its double shooting?

Hossy
09-20-2006, 06:01 PM
theres always "smoke" when you use co2...its cold tho...thats why if u touch ur barrel after u shoot alot, its cold...

it will always do that if ur dryfireing, the stuff outa the barrel is what pushes the paintball

Paintball0308
09-20-2006, 06:03 PM
yeah I know but when I had the expansion chamber you couldnt see it and now theres alot more air coming out of the feed neck. but for the double shooting problem would you know why that happens?

mv540
09-20-2006, 06:35 PM
It had happen to me, but i conclude that was becuase of the trigger, that was to tight that you shot a second shot without noticing...

Paintball0308
09-20-2006, 06:42 PM
I know its not trigger bounce because my trigger is kinda far and I slowly pushed the trigger and held it down and shot once and it fired twice, so I didnt shot twice without noticing it but thanks anyway.

Hossy
09-20-2006, 06:46 PM
the co2 may not be able to pust the bolt all the way back, ending in a double fireish thing..

make sure ur trigger frame is on tight..

nbishop66
09-21-2006, 03:25 AM
I agree with hossy on the trigger frame. Also make sure the striker is lubed up.

MVS1
09-21-2006, 05:07 AM
Have you increased the size of your front block (aka vertical adapter) holes? On the electra and 2 pilots that I have mod'd, increasing the size of the inlet and outlet holes has made it possible to drop the pressure to 275-300 psi and no "stuttering". Since you replaced your expansion chamber with a reg you have less room (aka volume) for the gas to expand. This maybe what is causing the stutter and increased amount of frost discharge. If you decide to bore out your front block I suggest you read otters article on lp before you do it and have a main spring kit available when you go to chrono. You'll find that a low to med-low spring will put you in the 270-280fps ballpark at the lower pressure. Another mod to seriously consider is increasing the outlet diameter of your valve to to the same size as your front block or even replace it with an aftermarket valve. I went with the Bandit bolts (www.banditbolts.com) mostly because of the price ($18) and how huge the outlet was. Take a look at it and decide for yourself, IMO its the best bang for the buck. I can't garantee that these will resolve your stuttering (however I am pretty sure it will, as long as there are not other problems with your marker) problem but since you have all the components to go lp you may as well go for it, you won't regret it, and it will pretty much completely do away with your frost discharge while dry firing if that is what your concerned about. READ OTTERSC's article, it will give you some good adivce/education on lp as well as other important criteria to help you id and resolve other issue's.

Paintball0308
09-21-2006, 04:58 PM
Its not my frame because its on tight.

Have you increased the size of your front block (aka vertical adapter) holes? On the electra and 2 pilots that I have mod'd, increasing the size of the inlet and outlet holes has made it possible to drop the pressure to 275-300 psi and no "stuttering". Since you replaced your expansion chamber with a reg you have less room (aka volume) for the gas to expand. This maybe what is causing the stutter and increased amount of frost discharge. If you decide to bore out your front block I suggest you read otters article on lp before you do it and have a main spring kit available when you go to chrono. You'll find that a low to med-low spring will put you in the 270-280fps ballpark at the lower pressure. Another mod to seriously consider is increasing the outlet diameter of your valve to to the same size as your front block or even replace it with an aftermarket valve. I went with the Bandit bolts (www.banditbolts.com) mostly because of the price ($18) and how huge the outlet was. Take a look at it and decide for yourself, IMO its the best bang for the buck. I can't garantee that these will resolve your stuttering (however I am pretty sure it will, as long as there are not other problems with your marker) problem but since you have all the components to go lp you may as well go for it, you won't regret it, and it will pretty much completely do away with your frost discharge while dry firing if that is what your concerned about. READ OTTERSC's article, it will give you some good adivce/education on lp as well as other important criteria to help you id and resolve other issue's.

Thats what I thought thanks but I have some questions. Do I drill where I put here in the pic. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h83/lud_08/doneasa.jpg
I'm going to buy a 32* spring kit and a NDZ valve but can I use the stock valve stem and cup seal? Also where do I drill on the stock valve because I want to see if I can mod the valve to compete with the NDZ one. Thanks helping so far.

MVS1
09-21-2006, 09:38 PM
Drill where you have the arrows...be extremely careful when drilling to ensure that you drill from the valve side and once you are through to the side that your expansion chamber (e/c) or volumizer (depending on who you ask) that you do not damage the area where your e/c o-ring seats or you will have to thread tape your e/c to get an adequate seal since your o-ring seal will be comprised. Sounds more scarry than it really is, just be patient, don't force it and take your time. When I have done this I will stop occasionally and see just how much further I need to go before it is through to the otherside. Don't drill from the e/c side because you take the risk of damaging the threads for your e/c. I have used the stock valve stem, however I think most will agree that since a good valve stem like the NDZ HP valve stem will flow better and comes with a Delrin cupseal, that it is worth the additional $10 or so to get it as well. If your going to drop the cash for a spring kit and aftermarket valve it makes sense to finish it right and get the valve stem too. My reg only goes down to 200 psi and with my combination and heavy valve/low main spring I can get reliable operation at around 270 fps. I like to stay at 275-300 psi mostly because it gives me some room to adjust and seems to be more efficient there. As for drilling the stock valve when you hold it as if it was in the marker there will be a hole that passes from top to bottom in the middle of the valve. Drill the top hole ONLY, do not drill all the way through since the bottom hole is where the set screw that holds the valve in place seats and if you increase the diameter of that hole your valve will not be held in the proper position any longer. Once you have drilled out the top hole us a very fine rounded file or dremel and smooth out any rough edges (very important to do to keep from gouging the internals when installing the valve into the marker body). For all drilling I used a 9/32 drill bit (approx. .300"). This will help you match the diameter of the holes in your front block but as for competeing with an aftermarket valve, not really. It will definitely increase your airflow enough to run at a much lower pressure, at least 300 psi if not lower. I mod'd one of my friends pilot's and didn't touch the stock valve at all just the front block and was able to get it down to 300 psi (280 fps) but to maximize efficiency you'll want to let your marker flow as efficiently as possible. If you want them I'll upload some pictures to help if necessary. If in doubt don't hesitate to ask.

nbishop66
09-21-2006, 09:54 PM
PM'd You.

Paintball0308
09-22-2006, 07:31 AM
yeah get those pics that would help alot.

MVS1
09-22-2006, 05:08 PM
Here are the pictures for modifying the vertical adapter (front block). Your imagine block is different however the concept is the same. Your block most likely has 2 holes on the side that your regulator or expansion chamber is attached to. Drill those holes out using a slightly smaller drill bit. However be very careful not to damage threads. Hope this works for ya.

Paintball0308
09-22-2006, 07:59 PM
thanks alot.

Paintball0308
09-23-2006, 07:55 AM
Im going to drill it but I cant see the psi cause I have no gauge so when I get one I'll tell you guys how it goes.

Hob Hayward
09-23-2006, 08:05 AM
Ooh in advance notice, don't drill on the volumizer side of the nub in the VA, you'll drill through the threads and then your volumizer will leak, not fun. I did it to my imagine :(.

Paintball0308
09-23-2006, 10:36 AM
Ooh in advance notice, don't drill on the volumizer side of the nub in the VA, you'll drill through the threads and then your volumizer will leak, not fun. I did it to my imagine :(.
I didn't see what you said but I noticed that before I drilled. I also wanted to drill a second hole where the regulator comes in but I noticed it would go into the volumizer threads. I also got pics. I started with smaller drill bits and ended it with a 7/32 drill. should I drill bigger?

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h83/lud_08/th_goodasavideo.jpg (http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h83/lud_08/?action=view&current=goodasavideo.flv)

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h83/lud_08/asa2.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h83/lud_08/asa4.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h83/lud_08/asa3.jpg

Paintball0308
09-23-2006, 10:37 AM
I need to debur the inside and test it I'll tell how well it works.

Total90Oliver
09-23-2006, 10:42 AM
i got ur vise grip homz, and dam that looks good, better than the ones in the stickies

Paintball0308
09-23-2006, 08:06 PM
It works really good, I got it probably on about 100 psi or less and it was recocking. I think it was that low because when I turned it a lil bit lower it stopped the flow so I think I did a good job, I need to drill and tap it for a guage to make sure.

Paintball0308
09-24-2006, 07:11 AM
Should I drill bigger than 7/32? and does any one have a spare gauge that they can give me for free?