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View Full Version : More blasted trouble with my LP setup...


Hob Hayward
08-28-2006, 06:02 AM
After the last time I posted this, you guys suggested a new bolt, I have the IPS sunbear bolt now, aswell as the DH titanium striker. However, things are not going as easily as I would hope. I suffer re-cocking problems... STILL. I've left the titanium striker out of the mix for now, but I still can't I can't get it below 400 psi before it starts having re-cocking problems. The only thing I could think of now that may be the culprit would be the valve, or the the exhaust hole in the bottom tube. I'm hoping right now, that plugging the exhaust hole will allow me to lower operating pressure, but I dunno... Perhaps I need to polish the sunbear aswell, it can't really hurt can it?


THe main reason I had set the DH striker aside for now is due to wear that was on it when I bought it from johnny blast, the place where the sear catches is battered, and a decent ammount of the metal has been moved away so it may be more difficult for the sear to catch. Also the striker isn't nearly as smooth as my polished stock striker, should I polish it aswell? Also due to the wear I beleive, the striker does not move smoothly in the gun.

Oh yeah:

05 Imagine
palmer stab
trinity front block
NDZ hp valve
Sunbear bolt
co2

vwjimmy
08-28-2006, 06:23 AM
I wouldn't polish the Sunbear, but I would clean up the DH striker and put it back in, the weight being the important factor. What kind of springs are you running? Sounds like maybe the valve spring is too stiff.

shunut
08-28-2006, 06:28 AM
Do you not have a spring kit? If you don't have a spring kit then that could be your problem.

Hob Hayward
08-28-2006, 06:46 AM
I have a spring kit, and was running light valve, light main with the stock striker, the velocity was good, it was just the re-cocking trouble.

Does plugging the exhaust do much?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/hobhayward/12e78a92.jpg
thats the striker, I guess the wear is normal apparently according to the DH website. However that doesn't explain it not moving smoothly...

shunut
08-28-2006, 06:48 AM
Some say it does but when I did it I noticed a very minor difference.

Eaglelox
08-28-2006, 07:19 AM
have you clipped any valve spring yet. what FPS is it when it fails recocking. you can always mod you valve pin to let more air in to the striker chamber if you have your FPS+.
you may notice a small dif after plugging the striker exsaust hole.

Hob Hayward
08-28-2006, 09:30 AM
Now I get to say: CONFOUND IT!

The frickin thing won't recock at all any more :S I have no clue whats wrong at this point. I tried all the spring combos with the stock striker, but it just wouldn't re-cock, at high pressures 500+ it wouldn't even burp properly it just went forward made a bit of noise and stayed there. I had to lower it to around 400 just to make it burp like normal...

BLAST! any help is much appreciated, I have no idea what to think right now, I don't know how its possible that it worked yesterday under the same config...

Nenkitsune
08-28-2006, 10:17 AM
orings maybe? i had the same problem with my gun not wanting to run smootly at 400, put in a new striker ring and oiled it and it ran fine. i doubt a bit that it's your problem, but who knows-

Hob Hayward
08-28-2006, 10:31 AM
Nah, my striker o-rings are in good condition.

vwjimmy
08-28-2006, 10:37 AM
Better check the o rings on the valve then.....sounds like that might be the problem....

DRAGON
08-28-2006, 11:02 AM
If you blocked off the exhaust port that's why it won't recock. The prob is the light striker along with the wear. TC the striker and put the stock one in. I'm sure it will recock no prob afterwards -

Nenkitsune
08-28-2006, 12:11 PM
yeah, but that's if he blocked it and kept it blocked. i blocked mine with tape since i'm using a rocket valve (it works for those)
i'd say, try a light valve and normal main.

thechubbss12
08-28-2006, 01:26 PM
Polish the DH striker.... Also Replace the orings on the valve AND the striker...

make sure everything is lubed and cleaned.. then try a light main spring combo and med Valve spring combo..

IFthat does not work... Then polish the Sear... and retry it...

Hob Hayward
08-28-2006, 01:57 PM
I mean it won't re-cock with the stock striker.

I stripped the gun entirely apart and checked everything already, all the o-rings are still good, I already polished the sear. I tried Light valve/lightmain and lightvalve/stock main. The weirdest part is that i was shooting it yesterday with the same config of light main/lightvalve, and it worked at 400 psi. I bet I've done somthing stupid and not noticed it, because theres no way that it could just do that on me is there?

I partially polished the DH striker and used some mother's mag on it to make it alot smoother, but most importantly where the sear slides over the striker was really rough, but I polished it re-cocks smoothly.

Eaglelox
08-29-2006, 08:40 AM
make sure the valve is not in backwards

Hob Hayward
09-02-2006, 08:03 AM
Ah, dragon was right, blocking the exhaust prevented it from recocking...

However, I have no idea why I can't get this working at lower pressures, the only thing I can say now is either my gauge is partially busted or I should get a better valve? I think the gauge might be messed because its a 700 psi gauge that took a raw 850 psi from a co2 tank when I was trying to fix my brothers gun. The gauge at that point went almost halfway around again, and it doesn't look like it rests at zero. SO I guess I'll have to get a new gauge...

vwjimmy
09-02-2006, 09:52 AM
That gauge is the problem.....
One trip past the high mark and its bye bye.....
Get a new one and let us know where its at!..

Hob Hayward
09-02-2006, 01:11 PM
Ah I don't want to risk busting another one though...

vwjimmy
09-02-2006, 02:09 PM
Get a 1500psi and check it out....

DRAGON
09-02-2006, 03:13 PM
Let me just emphasize, you do not need the gauge. Sounds like you'd do better w/o it because I get the illusion that you're trying to beat the pressure gnome. Don't worry so much about the pressure setting and concentrate on tuning it to run properly and I think you'll do alright. Put a plug in the gauge port and tune it -

Hob Hayward
09-03-2006, 08:18 AM
Alright, I guess I'll do that, tune it as best as possible without looking at the gauge, buy a new gauge, and see where I'm at when I've finished. However, I might want to buy a rocket valve... I dunno how much of a difference it'll make though...

vwjimmy
09-03-2006, 08:23 AM
I have had great luck with the ND valve...running them in every LP project I have :)

Sandman_Bravo
09-03-2006, 11:32 AM
I also have had good luck with the NDZ valve pin. I have the bandit valve body, but it's similiar to the NDZ. I have had the same (near identical) wear with my DH Ti hammer. I had a recocking problem once in a great while so I carefully took a fine flat file and filled back the two edges on either side of where the sear had peened it back, stopping just before I took off any new metal. No re-cocking issues after that and it seemed that the wear from the sear (in the hammer) has stopped. I think it has reached a point where it has settled or "broken in".

Hob Hayward
09-03-2006, 05:13 PM
Ah yes, I had seen the same wear on the DH, and that was bothering me because I didn't know how it was used by the person who had it before me. I polished it as well as its gonna be, and its nearly as slick as my stock striker at this point.

Sandman, did you ever polish your DH, or just use it straight out of the box?

I'm going to play for the first time in at least 2 months tommrow, so I'll see how it works out.

On another note, I polished my phantom internals just because I was bored and ocd about polishing, the pump stroke is sooo smooth now, its awesome....

Sandman_Bravo
09-03-2006, 06:41 PM
Yes I DID! Shined it up like chrome. I noticed when I got it out of the box, it was smooth- but still had machining ridges (or grooves) you could feel with your hand. I dremmeled and polished it to a mirror finish. I thought it couldn't hurt, right? I use dow 33 on the body and oil on the o-rings. After polishing it, I've had it pop out of my hands more than once during re-assembly when it's lubed up, lol.
Good luck, I hope you get the bugs worked out.

Sandman_Bravo
09-06-2006, 05:20 PM
Just curious... did you resolve the problems?

Hob Hayward
09-07-2006, 12:13 PM
Well, I tried out the DH hammer for a while, but it didn't want to re-cock correctly, I was baffled when it gave overly high velocities at the point where it would recock and would randomly fail to recock sometimes with lt valve/ medium and heavy main. I guess I should have tried light main, I dunno what I was thinking, but I gave up trying to get it to work partially because I wanted to use my phantom (had a good time with that, even though my damned paint rolled through the smallest detent ring...)

Later on I tried my imagine with stock striker and it worked like a dream at what my gauge claimed was 400 psi on the dot. Easily the most accurate gun out of all my friends even with bad paint :P

I guess I'll try the DH striker with light main spring when I get a chance. I've been uber busy since school started on tuesday, so hopefully I'll have more free time soon.

Hob Hayward
09-09-2006, 11:37 AM
Well I just tried er out with light valve/light main, and the same troubles, it appears to work, then it randomly starts jackhammering. Its also louder than with my stock striker.

vwjimmy
09-09-2006, 12:04 PM
Did you mod the sear in your frame? Try something thinner than a nickel like a dime if you did....

Hob Hayward
09-09-2006, 02:09 PM
No, its unmodded.