View Full Version : more T-board issues...

01-08-2006, 03:24 PM
i don't know why, but when i hook up my stock ESP board for a tourny and leave my T-board behind, i always hope the next time i install it that it will work... well it hasn't worked yet.

my situation is that more often than not, when i fire (mostly at high rates) it likes to "double fire" on default settings. so then i go into the settings and only raise my debounce to see if that will fix it. the only thing is, when i go into the settings and set them to the same as default, the frame sounds sick (ill). double fire on almost every pull, not a crisp sounding solenoid either, even though it is the same as default, just not "default".

so it seems when i go into the settings, i'm not starting at a point that i know, i'm starting from scratch.

any suggestions?


btw - i'm not using eyes

01-08-2006, 03:30 PM
Try shimming the noid. Start with a dime and move up to a quarter. Hows the battery condition? Is it fully charged? Does this act the same with the stock board? If not then I suggest Emailing Damon. He will replace it for you.

01-08-2006, 03:31 PM
might have a faulty board or that chip that fits into the slot might be defective

but why would u take ur t-board out for tourneys?

just curious

01-08-2006, 03:33 PM
shimming seems to only hinder the performance. battery is 24hrs fully charged. the stock board works perfect, i just want a higher rate of fire hence the T-board (and soon get the eyes installed).

Damon might be my only hope.

i take the T-board out b/c it hasn't worked for me yet, lol!


01-08-2006, 03:37 PM
oh ok lol. wel like i said ur chip or the whole board might be faulty or mayby the soldering points on the bottom of the board are touching something metal and shorting something out.

01-08-2006, 04:06 PM
trigger bounce...

01-08-2006, 04:24 PM
well i've got an ACP Thrasher and magnet mod with enough room between the switch and the trigger so as not to touch. the the trigger bouncing and actuating the switch shouldn't be an issue, or at least it's not with the stock board.

i just tried a few different settings, dwell @ 5,6,7 and debounce 15,16,17. worked alright, but still had the double firing occasionally. but worse, at high rates of fire, sometimes the striker wouldn't recock all the way. not alot, i'd say less than 1/32 or so. just had to pull the cocking knob, but the striker didn't move really, it just "turned" and then seated. hmmm...


01-08-2006, 05:05 PM
What type of marker is this on? Just wondering.

01-08-2006, 05:09 PM
oh, i thought i put that in the first post. it on my BLM. i have to try it on my Classic to see what kind of results i get.

the frame is "modified". i.e. - i rounded out the whole top side (sear side) to fit the 'gun body flush. i notched out the bodies to allow for the sear pin also.


01-08-2006, 05:31 PM
trust me... my BLM does the same thing.

Doesnt sound as bad as yours, but it doesdouble fire occasionaly. Its a paint in the ass.

And yea, you have to mill the top of your trigger frame because the Botton side of the BLM is different than a electro-spyder body.

I still havent figured it out, i thought it was my switch. I broke my switch modifying it before i could adjust the settings and debounce. But once i fix it, i'll let you know.

I really think the sear isnt "in" the body enough to catch the striker. Or the other way around. Not sure. Ill test it out.

Good luck.

01-08-2006, 06:35 PM
that's kind of what i've been thinking.

but then why does the stock board work and not the T-board. i can crank on the stock board all day and cap it out w/out it double firing once. it worked with my Classic and my BLM. it's just the T-board where i have issues and that doesn't make sense.

i need to switch my frame to my Classic and see what happens. won't be tonight though. i'll keep you posted.

thx for all the input,

01-08-2006, 08:12 PM
Didnt read the stock board part... Hmm. I've never tried my stock board on my BLM. I think i might do that.

If the stock board works, then its definetly the settings on the T-Board.
Try Lowering your Dwell and raise your Debounce.

*Anyone else, feel free to correct me on the settings thing. *cough* Dragon

01-08-2006, 09:20 PM
if i go with a lower dwell than 5, (w/o air) you can hear the sear wanting to "double fire". it has a weak sound to it. all my testing is using a fully charged Java 9.6. and a debounce of 15+ i think should be high enough to extinguish a bounce issue. but the occasional double firing still occured.

i think i'm going to get a little wild with the sandpaper and dremel this week. i might take a little more off the frame and maybe notch out the BLM so the frame actually sits in the receiver. i don't know yet.


01-08-2006, 09:36 PM
Talk to Damon before you start cutting/grinding.

Maybe the capacitator is weak. Not giving enough energy to the solenoid

01-08-2006, 09:57 PM
one might think that, but it's only when i change the settings. i think the cap. is still good. if it's default, it's fine...

okay, how about i explain it like this:

default settings; sounds great (no air). everything sounds solid, not missing a beat.

go into setup (put in factory "default" settings); sounds different than actuall "defualt".

does that make sense..? they don't sound the same, when in actuality, they should be no different at all?

i have 3 BLM bodies, so i figure i could test on one of them. i got one for free in a trade, it's pretty "modified", looks wise. looks like poop, but it should serve as a test dummy.


01-10-2006, 04:37 PM
well, i've gotten close. i've got a dwell of 5 and a debounce of 25 and things seem to be going okay. i've only dry fired, no balls yet. i don't want to have to clean this thing if it doesn't work out ya know. i haven't done any sanding/dremmeling either. think i'm going to do just a bit though... because every so often, at high rates of fire, i still have the occasional "not fully cocking" issue. but with a ball, this might go away.

i was also wondering, if i have my debounce up to 25, is that going to affect my firing rate? if not, i'd almost go to 50 or so and just leave it.


01-10-2006, 09:29 PM
100ms = 10bps. <-- otters site

T-Board Tutorial (http://www.ottersccustoms.com/t-board.html)

01-10-2006, 09:42 PM
great! thx again adrian...

so then 50ms = 20bps, right. and then 75 ms = 15 bps. if so, why wouldn't everyone have it set there? that would cap it at 15 bps. i think i'll do that if that's the case.

in a sense, if a tourny only allowed 15 bps (which most do) either ramping or not... this would automatically have the board set at 15 bps (75 ms debouce), right? regardless or not if i had the ramping chip.


01-11-2006, 06:25 PM
so i just installed the Ramping chip becuase we get to use PSP to 15bps in this next tourny. i'm a little confused on how to get this setup correctly.

i know how to do "Setup 1", but it's the crossover to "Setup 2" that i can't quite figure out. do i need to shut off the frame after completing "Setup 1" and then go in to "Setup 2?" the manual reads a little funny and i can't get my frame to act the same way the manual says to do it.

any help is appreciated as always.


01-11-2006, 06:34 PM
yup had the same exact problem. just explian ur problem a little better.

01-11-2006, 06:41 PM
well, i just get stuck in the transition from "1" - "2".

-taken from Scenario Dreams, LLC-

"Example1: Turn on the marker with the trigger held down until the LED blinks once, release trigger, pull trigger three times (Dwell), hold trigger until the LED turns off, release trigger, pull the trigger four times (Eye Delay), hold trigger until the LED turns off, pull trigger twice (Debounce), hold trigger until the LED turns off, pull trigger four times (Eye Disable), hold trigger until LED turns off, pull trigger until LED turns ON (Eye Type), hold trigger until LED turns off, pull trigger until the LED turns on (Ramp enabled), pull and hold trigger until the LED turns off, pull trigger four times (Trigger Speed), pull and hold trigger until LED turns off, pull trigger once (Time to Ramp), pull and hold trigger until LED turns off, pull trigger 7 times (Ramp Speed), pull and hold trigger until LED turns off.

the "red" is where i get messed up. it says "pull until LED turns ON"... well i don't use eyes, so i just hold until light comes on in the Eye Delay, Eye Disable and Eye Type. after that the LED turns and stays on like it would without the chip. but then when i pull the trigger, every third shot is a "rebound" shot. i.e. - when i let go of the 3rd shot it shoots again.


01-11-2006, 07:08 PM

The T-Board operates exactly like the stock Spyder control board. When you pull the trigger, the marker will fire once. Each time the trigger is pulled, the LED will turn OFF. When the trigger is released, the LED will turn back on. There is NO burst or full-auto mode on the T-board. The eye can be disabled AT ANY TIME by holding the trigger down for approx two sec. The eye is disabled when the LED turns on while the trigger is still down. The Dwell will NOT be changed when disabling the eye. To re-active the eye, the marker must be turned off for 10 sec. and then turned back on. The marker MUST be turned off for a minimum for 10 sec. Failure to do so could cause the marker to not function properly.

The default dwell time is 5ms, default eye delay is 20ms, default debounce is 4ms, and default eye disable is 2 sec. The minimum dwell time is 2ms, there is no maximum dwell, the min. debounce is 2ms and min eye disable is � sec. We do not recommend a dwell higher then 12ms. When the marker is turned �on�, the default dwell time, eye delay, etc. are used. To use a different dwell time or eye delay, the setup procedure must be used. NOTE: When the marker is turned off, the T-Board will keep its settings.

To change settings, restore defaults, or enter the Eye Alignment Tool:

1. Turn marker ON while holding in the trigger.

2. The LED will not light.

3. Continue to hold trigger in.

4. After two sec, the LED will blink once. Release the trigger now to enter the SETUP mode.

5. After another two sec (four sec total) the LED will blink twice. Release the trigger now and the T-Board will be restored to its default settings.

6. After another two sec (six sec total), the LED will turn on. You are now in the Eye Alignment Tool.

7. Release the trigger.

8. To exit the Eye Alignment Tool, the marker must be turned off for 10 sec.

****IMPORTANT: You MUST restore the defaults when you FIRST install the T-Board!!!!

01-11-2006, 07:11 PM
so try to reset to the factory settings

01-11-2006, 07:11 PM
i did, and i do every time i go in and change something, just to get a fresh start.

okay, if i go into "setup1" and set that and leave; turn off the trigger frame and back on; then go into "setup2" and set that... it seems to work alright. maybe it's just that the 15bps ramping seems alot faster than i thought. i mean it's going really, really, really fast!

i think i did that part right, 9+1+1+1+1+1+1=15. if that's the case then... wow! i don't know if my marker will be able to keep up. it sounds like when the bolt "jackhammers/burps". i guess we'll see tomorrow when i get more air (and when i figure out why my striker o-ring keeps on chopping).

also i just noticed this. if i keep the trigger held back, it's fully auto? that doesn't seem right, or is it (PSP wise)?

and just compared this: friends '05 Imagine (stock board) full auto @ 13 bps sounds slower than my T-board @ 9 bps ramping... hmmm. i'll have to compare with my other friends CAMD board. they seem to be a little faster.


01-13-2006, 09:12 PM
Give us an update. Everything Ok now?

01-16-2006, 04:28 PM
okay... i got everything to work out just fine. i just set the ramping up seperately, after i turn of the board and fire it back up. i did find out however that the "so-called" 15 bps setting with the ramping chip is more like 18 or more. don't know why though. so i set it to 10 or 11 and it seems just short of 15. worked great!

also, i can't use the ramping chip in the tourny because of the full-auto scenario it represents. so unfortunately, you'll see this marker, or most of it anyway, in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum shortly. i'll probably use it in this tourny (no ramping chip) and sell it after i clean it.

so if your looking for a BLM, keep checking the B/S/T section. i am also going to sell a Classic.

thx for all the help.

01-16-2006, 07:19 PM
so the debounce fixed the re-cocking problem?

mines acting like a lil *****.

I cant get my trigger set screws just right cuz they're stripped and my trigger switch is acting dumb too.

01-16-2006, 08:03 PM
yeah, i set the debounce to 25 and never had a re-cocking problem after that. it didn't slow my rate of fire down at all. i still have my trigger set to about 1/16" away, almost touching. i can ramp and hold and not have it "burp" once.

it may be because your using eyes that you are having a few issues... but i doubt it.

too bad i'm gonna let it go, figures i would get it working right before i get rid of it. LOL! oh well.