View Full Version : AIM Shock regulator help

08-25-2006, 07:26 PM
My TL won't recock with this new regulator. Using weak main and heavy valve spring. 32 degrees valve, drilled out vertical adapter, polished internals, and stock bolt w/out venturi. Reg is turned all the way to 600 psi, but the gun still won't recock, anyone got any advice.

08-25-2006, 07:36 PM
I had the same problem. Its most likely your VA. I drilled mine out about as far as it could be drilled out and still it wouldn't recock below 5-600 psi. I even had a rocket valve with is argueably the best valve for a spyder. I got a Bob Long/32 degree High flow VA w/LPC and I got my operating pressure down to ~220 psi shooting consistantly at 285 fps.

08-26-2006, 08:02 AM
so you think if i got a new VA it would fix it?

08-26-2006, 08:04 AM
It might. I'm not going to guarantee it but it made a worlds of difference for me.

08-26-2006, 08:05 AM
where can i get a good one at?

08-26-2006, 08:44 AM
You can surf the sales forums here, occassionally an Assault Block'll show up. They run ~$25 used.

08-26-2006, 06:42 PM
actually, i would try changing your springs around. mine could recock as low as 400psi with the stock valve, light valve/medium main springs, drilled va, and the crappy stock kingman regulator.

08-27-2006, 11:39 AM
hold on
when i first got my aim it was doin the same, i realized it was happening becasue the output pressure of the reg was too low, all you have to do is turn the pressure up to around 400-500psi, its not recocking because theres not enough pressure to push the hammer back.

08-27-2006, 12:25 PM
damn everyones rocking the aim shock reg!!! thank God am not the only one. i had recocking problems too iff it went to low in psi. it would shoot automatic in semi with out holding the trigger. get a assualt block since the v/a hole is bigger than the stock one or drill it out, if you going LP then your going to need a bigger hole since you rely on more volume to fire the ball. big hole=more volume. Am i right?

09-05-2006, 08:06 PM
Ok guys I got the assault block got everything installed. still doesn't recock. Come to find out the 32 degrees valve was a wrong choice. Got low ratings on pbreview, and now I know why. The star shapped guide for the valve pin somehow got absolutley destroyed. The cup seal never made a good seal (always leaked). I need a new guide star for the valve pin. If I can find a rocket valve will I need to find a Star guide or do they need them? I need some help...I'm ready to get this TL shooting LP, but its not been a fun experience. By the way I switched my AIM reg for my buddy's CP reg.

09-05-2006, 08:12 PM
You probably should start your own thread for your own problems, but to answer your question no, you do not need a star guide for the rocket valve.

09-06-2006, 08:18 AM
Actually this was my thread, before my username had posting permission my friend posted that for me. So this is the same gun that we've been talking about since the start.

09-06-2006, 09:06 AM
Oh, I was kind of wondering because you were talking like it was your thread but I wasn't sure. You never know these days.

IMO the rocket valve is the best Spyder valve. The only thing that sucks about it is the intial setup. You have to keep taking the valve in and out of the gun to get the SRP set right. The AKA valve is good but way too expensive.

09-06-2006, 09:49 AM
the rocket valve actually is easy to set up to a certian degree. you start out with the SRP flush and use the lightest spring setup you can to get good fps with the velocity screwed out most of the way. after that, you screw in the srP and file the pin to adjust the velocity down. a guy on pb review posted the email he got from maddmans tech guy someone here is selling a rocketvalve for 25 dollars i belive. i also got mine here and i'm very pleased with it (but i NEED a high flow reg)

(heres the message)

""set valve dwell(gap) at maximum opening with the spring retainer plate "flush" or
even with the stem....start shooting gun and turning reg pressure
down til it won't recock.... then turn it up until it recocks consistently
every time WITHOUT paint...... then you can start making valve stem
shorter and turning it in and filing the valve stem as you go(so it doesn't stick
out past the spring retainer plate(srp) ..... once
you get to this point, it's a matter of what efficiency you want....lighter
components that seal well will allow you to go lower as will a lighter
hammer spring....make sure velocity adjuster is all the way out
so you use the lightest spring pressure to operate the gun.... start
turning srp in until velocity drops....this gives most efficiency at
lowest pressure, and this varies from marker to marker. hope this helps.
if you accidentally file the stem too short, that's what the rebuild kit is
for as it has a spare valve stem /nosecone seal , o ring and spring retainer

09-06-2006, 09:57 AM
Back when I bought mine, before new ownership the instructions weren't that clear, but back then the owners of Maddmann Products weren't doing a very good job of running the company.

09-06-2006, 11:22 AM
Yeah sorry I didn't even think about it being under two different names.

I really wanted to stay away from the adjustable valve. Is there any valve better than the 32 degrees that I can just throw in the gun and not worry about it?

09-06-2006, 04:16 PM
yeh i got an idea aking, just go valve-less. SUPER high flow, no recocking problems there. no but really, you need to get your gun working.

09-19-2006, 04:41 PM
Update: I got the rocket valve. No more leaks and it fires really good at 300 psi. I haven't seen how low it can go but I know it goes to at least 225. When I can get to the local field to chrono the gun we'll see what the psi is at around 285 fps.

09-23-2006, 12:52 PM
Update: Gun is shooting 285 fps @ 200 psi. Not very consistent. +/- 10. Is this a combonation between the regulator not being broken in and the fact that I still use C02? I shot about 100 paintballs ranging in fps anywhere from 270 up to 295. Will this fix itself somewhat as the regulator breaks in?