View Full Version : Making your own lighter microswitch

07-21-2006, 11:00 AM
Ok, since we can't seem to locate Dragon's old thread about this, I decided to make my own. I've done this several times, but you might need to practice a few times before you do this because if you bend it too much, it's very touchy! Of course, you can make it less touchy - it's trial and error, after all! Sorry for the blurriness of some of the pictures, but it's my crappy camera - yes, I had it on the flower thingy for up close pictures! Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

First of all, go here (http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=291&highlight=microswitch) to follow Otter's instructions on how to install/remove a microswitch to get it out of your grip frame. I personally don't remove the switch since it's not necessarily important with this mod.

You'll need these tools to do the job. Hammer, nail punch (or nail, or something to remove the pins for the microswitch, needlenose pliers and an Xacto knife (or something thin enough to pry the cover off the switch.)

Ok, before we start, note that I (nor Kingman, nor anyone else for that matter,) am not responsible for anything that will happen with this modification. If you wanna do it, do it at your own risk, don't come whining about MY modification if you shoot someone's eye out.

Let's begin!


1. Tools you need: Hammer (I prefer a small finishing hammer, but any will do,) nail punch or a nail or whatever, pair of needle nose pliers and an Xacto knife, or something that has a thin enough tip.


2. Remove the grip frame from your gun using the allen wrench.


Then remove the grips. You'll need to remove the pin for the trigger and the two pins for the switch using the hammer and the punch.


3. Remove the trigger and pull the microswitch through the front of the grip frame. Here, you can decide if you want to remove it from the wires or leave it attached.


Now, for practicality purposes, I'm using a switch that has been completely removed from the wiring.


4. Using the Xacto knife, pry up the ears on the side of the switch - one on each side. Be careful not to cut yourself! Also, take your time, because there are 3 metal prongs, a spring and a button inside there. If you lose any of them, you have to buy a new switch.


5. Now, there are 3 ways to do this mod. You can bend one of two different prongs, or stretch the spring. DON'T stretch the spring! Once you stretch it, you can't compress it back to it's original size.


Note the prong on the far left side. You want to bend that just a bit so that it's at a bit of an angle. NOT TOO MUCH or your trigger will be extremely light. You can try to do it without removing the components, but I find it's quite a bit easier to just leave it inside the box. However, if you take the spring/prong/contact component out of the shell, make sure not to lose any of the pieces! Also, when reinstalling, make sure the contact is angled up. Personally, I'd just leave it in the shell and bend the contact with an allen wrench or the pliers.


6. You want to bend the top left prong just a smidge so that there's an angle when compared to the straight edge of prong. Not much, because it will make it too loose! Kind of like this:



07-21-2006, 11:00 AM
7. Now, take the prong on the right of the assembly out.


With your pliers, bend it DOWN just a smidge, again, not too much as the contact needs to move between the two.


Reinstall the prong. Push down on the button to see if you can hear a click. If you can't, you bent it too much and need to bend it back up a bit. Notice the angle in comparison to the rest of the switch - not too much, not too little.

8. To finish it up, snap the cover back onto the microswitch. MAKE SURE to have the contact plate pointing at an upward angle, if you removed it from the switch to bend the piece. Then resolder the microswitch back to the correct wires (per Otter's tutorial) and slide the switch back into the gun. Replace the switch pins and then reinstall the trigger.

Voila'! You have a lightened switch. Now, test it out. If it's TOO touchy, you need to go back into the switch and bend one of the contacts back out a little. As I said, it's going to take some experimentaion on your part, but it works, and you get to say you modded your own switch - and saved 5.00!

07-21-2006, 11:27 AM
Nice Vik......couldn't have done it better myself - ;)

07-21-2006, 11:43 AM
Thank you!

Although, I learned it all from your previous thread on this. So, in a round about way, it's all because of you....Big props to my scaley moderator brother!

Ok, too sappy - get the hell out of here and go clean your house man! I can smell it here in Oklahoma! :p

07-21-2006, 01:34 PM
one word of caution

be careful when soldering it shut...i melted the plastic case shut...boo

07-21-2006, 01:43 PM
yay!! now we can actually link people when they ask about it. good job.

Hob Hayward
07-21-2006, 01:53 PM
Thanks Vike :)

09-17-2006, 07:52 AM
wow, now i know what i did wrong after all these years, i bent the middle prong, not the last one! thanks vike!

09-17-2006, 08:02 AM
i love it, thanks a bunch

Oscum Guy
12-15-2006, 05:33 PM
thanks for this mod. i did it on my e99 avant and it is awesome.

12-15-2006, 06:24 PM
:thumbup: :thumbup: You are all very welcome! Part of the fun is doing your own mods - this is just one of those fun ones...

12-15-2006, 10:09 PM
lol i found that you can do the entire mod with 2 tools. a hammer, and one of those small flat tipped scrwedrivers. use the screwdriver to smack the pins out, then use that same screwdriver to pop the switch open, and to bend the tabs ^^. i also found that a hose clamp bent in half makes a great pvc saw (oh the things you learn when you really need to fix things)

05-04-2007, 10:41 AM
Great info !!

Took your lead on going into switch, and along the way looked a tad deeper into the switches mechanics ....

The way in which the tension spring attaches to the top of moving contact really pretensions it to go up .... You are bending the top right tab downward slightly to get closer to the bottom right grounding tab, and making the effort to get contact to snap down less. All Good :)

What I found was if you removed the grounding tab (center of switch) and bend it down very slightly making it snug with case, you can bring the top tap down lower yet making the TOTAL travel of switch from trip to reset much shorter. But keep the spring tension on left tab damn near stock.

This made a VERY crisp switch with SUPER low travel distance to operate. My modified switch when placed on a scale was @55 grams, but even there is still very positive in it's action.

I use it with a custom Delrin trigger thats very light weight. This has not yet been an issue getting rebound trigger activation.


12-15-2007, 11:42 AM
wow, ive been looking for this thread for weeks. i was expecting it in the ESP section...never thought to look in here until last night. and otter doesnt have it on his site. :up: :up: again!

12-19-2007, 06:12 PM
hmm. interesting. think i might try it :)


02-12-2008, 06:35 PM
this does make a big improvement on my trigger

03-24-2008, 06:59 PM
i did this on my VS1 switch. wow, what a difference. it makes a much quicker contact than before. more sensitive. adjusted my trigger so it was close to the frame and Boo-yah. Good job on the tutorial.!!

07-11-2008, 04:49 PM
Hi I have a little problem. It all went fine untill one of the last steps, i went to put the cover back on to the switch, one side went on esaily but the side by the switch had to be slightly forced on. When I looked at it there was a small gap, then when I pressed the switch down it just sunk in with out a click or returning so I pressed it again it just sunk in more until it was level with the sides. So I took off the cover and checked everything put it back on and basiclly did all of that about four times!:mad:. So if someone could help me out that would be great.:)


S owner
07-11-2009, 07:53 PM
did you bend the plastic??

One more thing you can do to is flip the purple button 180*..