View Full Version : pilot acs, milling cocking knob slot

07-08-2006, 11:02 AM
ok im wanting to try an experiment but i need some helpful imput. There seems to be an issue with the pilot acs that after some use the cocking knob hits against the ends of the slot slightly bending it and making it really hard to get out so you can dissasemble the marker.

of coarse mine started doing it too so what i want to do is mill the slot clear to the back of the marker where the back cap butts against it. this will allow for an easy and quick way to strip the gun. just pull the quick disconnect pin, take off the back cap and springs, then grab the knob and pull the bolt straight out the back. problem is i dont know that much about the markers so i have some questions to clear up before i attempt this.

first, will it harm the structural integrity of the marker to mill the last 1/4" (roughly) to the back of the gun. it looks thick enough back there to me that it shouldnt cause a problem. but some expert advise would be appreciated.

Second, will it interfere with the operation of the gun. it looks to me like the springs keep the bolt and striker from going too far back and slamming into the back cap and or flying out of the gun entirely. but again im not 100% sure of this. if its the metal at the back that the cocking knob hits against that keeps the bolt from going too far back then obviously i cant do it. So any words of wisdom on this one guys?

third, does it have to be sealed back there to allow proper c02/compressed air flow.

finally, has anybody done something like this before that can tell me if it works or not.

i have the equipment and i know how to operate the lathe. i can make the cut without any problems. i just want to make sure it wont hurt the marker to do this before i start. il probly just cut off the top part of the back cap as well and smooth that off. i realize this will allow debris to get into the marker but i clean it regularly and if anything does get in there during a game the allowed quick stripping will let me get it out immediately.

also before you say otter customs i already looked and didnt find anything pertaining to this on there. So if anybody has ideas or helpful info on this modification let me know.

07-08-2006, 11:27 AM
You could mill the slot farther back without causing air issues...but I'd be worried that the striker would start slamming into the pack plate harder or instead of - the cocking pin on the rear of the slot...causing the plate to snap off while firing and smacking you in the face. A high-speed cutter on a dremel works good (I did a side-cocking job on my old Xtra, is how I know). Just watch the rearward clearance of the striker and back of the bolt, in relation to the back plate and velocity adjuster.

07-08-2006, 11:43 AM
if i do it that top piece of the back plate wont be there im gonna shave that off too. that will just leave the velocity adjustment knob attached back there.

also theres gonna be lost of edge rounding so if the bolt is allowed to clear out the back slightly it wont be rubbing on any edges. i may use the dremmil for the rounding and cleaning up the edges but as far as the actual solt cut im just gonna use my buddies lathe. thatl let it clamp the part in place and just run the bit back and forth in a straight line. i dont have a steady enough hand to do it with a dremmil cuz that line has to be straight.

hey if this works out we could have a usefull mod. but i wont be able to do it untill i go home next month on leave so you guys might have to wait a while on an update.

if it dont work out anybody know where i can get a cheap pilot acs replacement or aftermarket body for cheap?

07-08-2006, 12:39 PM
It will not hurt the structural intregrity at all.... Its actuly a simple mod and if you still have the striker buffer then you will not have any worries or the bolt flying out of the back... The only thing that sux about only doing this little of a mod is that you will not have the convience of just removing the bolt by simply pulling the bolt pin? Like an Intimidator...

Its a simple mod if done correctly it should turn out nice...

07-08-2006, 01:26 PM
awesome, i was worrying i was gonna hear nothin but negative's on this idea. i feel much more comfortable doin it now.

hey it may not be as easy as pullin one pin. but it'l still be a lot quicker stripdown than normal. normally you gotta pull the qd pin and take the stuff off the back, then pull the cocking knob, then find something soft to push the bolt out with so you wont damage it.

after this all i'l have to do is pull the qd take the stuff off the back, the grab the cocking knob and pull everything out the back. that bypasses 2 steps, both kind of annoying, especially when ya gotta have pliers to get the cocking knob out after a while.

oh well thanx for the imput, i appreciate it guys.

07-22-2006, 07:07 PM
new update, i broke down and got a dremill, and cut out the back of the slot. i fired a few shots through it and the operation seems to work fine. it definitely makes getting the bolt out really simple and fast. and it hasnt hit the back cap yet. we're going to play tomorrow so more updates after that. if everything works well, i got some costetic surgery to do on this thing so it doesnt look like crap and il post some pics.

08-03-2006, 04:27 AM
don't worry about hitting the back cap. it has that buffer in it and anyways, rearcocks would have problems if that were the case wouldn't they ^_^

08-03-2006, 07:36 AM
yeah im not sure what buffer is but if your talkin about that springloaded section that sticks out the back of the acs bolt, the NDZ bolt doesn't have that.

anyways im probly gonna slice the dust cap off too cuz after the body mods i did it just looks funny. i'm making it into a bolt out back looking thing.

08-03-2006, 10:14 AM
the buffer is on the hammer side. it keeps the hammer from hitting the velocity adjuster. so basically you're going to make it a rearcocking now?

08-03-2006, 06:41 PM
ok your still confusing me, you mean the spring between the striker and velocity adjuster knob, or that thick rubber donut? i dont know all the paintball gun terminology.

but to answer your question, i sliced some of the body off in back where it normally covers the back of the bolt. i did it at an angle so it kinda looks like the new electra how the bolt is visible when it goes all the way back. At the moment im still using a top cocking bolt but if i cut off the dustcap piece just above the velocity adjuster knob i could just as easily put a rear cocking bolt in it too. just gotta find one with the right specs i guess.

08-03-2006, 07:09 PM
the rubber donut is the striker buffer

08-03-2006, 07:26 PM
the rubber donut is the buffer ^^
i get what you mean now. as for what to use for the rearcock, i found a steel threaded rod at home depot, it's 3/8th inch i belive. if you take out that brass screw in the back of your bolt, it'll thread into it quite well. then you can make the knob for it or w/e. I use a bunch of rubber bands so it's nice and squishy/ It actually was a topcock acs bolt till i made it a rear cock for my gun

09-13-2006, 10:08 PM
sorry its been a while. but as an update the gon body has been sent to the machinist to smooth up the internals. as soon as dad mails it back to me il post some pics. however i dont know if he smoothed up any of the external blemishes my cutting made. so yeah that may still be ugly, oh well, it was never meant to be a pretty gun anyway, this ones straight up function over form.