View Full Version : cocking knob problem

07-03-2006, 01:31 PM
I've benn having problems with this cocking knob falling out when in play.
Ive. had to stop and look for it please help!!:confused:

07-03-2006, 02:13 PM
falling out? everybody is always saying they can't get it out. try tightening the set screw on the back of the bolt, that might do it. i had to by a new bolt cuz my cocking knob broke off inside the bolt and i can't get it out.

07-03-2006, 03:09 PM
I actually had mine break off leaving a piece inside the bolt. To turn the set screw that holds the pin in place (via a spring & ball bearing) I had to heat up the screw with a torch. You must first disassemble the inside metal parts from the acs bolt (you don't want to melt the delrin plastic) then heat the screw. Use leather or welding gloves to hold it. I suppose a heat gun would also work. The loc-tite on those threads is so tough you can strip the head of the bolt trying to do it cold. In your case you need to possibly turn it in a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Don't get it too tight or you'll have problems getting the cocking pin in or out. Good luck.

07-03-2006, 11:23 PM
yeah, i had my dad take it to work(he's a toolmaker) and he had a hell of a time getting that screw out. i got the screw out and everything but i'm still unable to get the rest of the cocking knob out, so i said screw and bought a new bolt

07-03-2006, 11:35 PM
There is not only a screw in there, there's a spring and ball detent(should have been anyways). Once they are removed the broken knob should come out as well -

07-04-2006, 03:14 AM
To turn the set screw that holds the pin in place (via a spring & ball bearing)

I had mentioned the spring & ball, but perhaps the blow-up parts diagram would help also. There should be a parts diagram with the instructions. If not, you can find it at Kingman's site:


Parts 1717 a-c. Good luck.

07-04-2006, 10:05 AM
yeah i cant make my bolt screw budge either i didnt wanna break anything so i just left it alone. only now the cocking knob is starting that getting stuck crap. i think its time to ditch the bolt for a new one. im thinking about the orange wasp fenix

07-04-2006, 10:30 AM
viper, pull the cocking pin and look at the bottom portion that goes into the bolt. My first pin had bent slightly in this area before it finally broke off. If it's bent at all it can make removal a *****. You can get the screw to move, only if you heat it. Heat softens loc-tite. Try not to get frustrated and take your time, it will loosen. Good luck.

07-04-2006, 10:55 AM
yeah, i took all that out, the spring and that ball, the bottom of the knob is still stuck, to bad it's aluminum otherwise i'd use a magnet to get it out. i'll just use it as an extra extra back up, you know, put a stick in the hole if i need to cock it lol

07-04-2006, 11:04 AM
Can you reach in thru the end now that the screw/spring/ball are out with a small flat-head screw driver and pry the bugger out?

07-04-2006, 11:08 AM
oh i've tried it all sandman, it just sits there moving ever so slighty teasing me. like a jelly donut behind a glass case to cop, just teasing away

07-04-2006, 02:15 PM
So let me get this straight, I should separate the plastic from the metal and heat it up then turn it to tighten?? If so let me know did it work for you

07-04-2006, 02:24 PM
Ok, here we go:
Get on a clean table with a towel laid out on it- some parts are spring loaded.

1-Take the bolt out of the gun.
2-Reach down into the center of the bolt from the front(opposite end of the cocking knob) and unscrew the center bolt. Be careful, there's a small o-ring on it.
3-Turn to the side of the bolt and unscrew the allen bolt, that holds the pin, that goes in the hammer.
4-Remove the center metal portion of the bolt and spring.
5-Now you have just the metal part you want to heat up and work on, so do that.
6-Let it air cool, don't dip it water. When it's cool, reassemble.

Hope that helps, Good luck.

07-04-2006, 07:49 PM
just out of curiosity would milling out the front and back of the slot the cocking knob slides back and forth in help prevent it from such bending? maybe kingman f'd up on the tolerances and the damn knob is banging against the metal each time it cycles. just a thought. im going home in a month anyhow and i was planning on playing with my buddys lathe and doing some custom milling anyway. not so much to put any fancy designs in the body or anything but just to knock off excess metal and save weight. its one of those old school manual style lathes so itl take a lot of patience but itl be fun

07-05-2006, 05:21 AM
I don't really know. I've noticed that since I've changed bolts and gone LP, my cocking knob problems are gone. I did however clean up the slot with a dremmel once to remove burrs the knob made from hitting it. Maybe at 800psi with a stock bolt it can rebound too far and hit the frame slot.

07-05-2006, 09:02 AM
I made a lanyard and attached my cocking pin to the cotter pin that keeps the take-down pin from coming out and I have not lost my cocking pin since. Another thing to do is clean out the cocking pin socket and ball with gun solvent, then blow-out/dry the residue, then apply a couple of drops of gun oil. Use an allen key or something small enough to get in there and depress the check ball so that the gun oil coats it. I know it sounds like it would work the exact opposite, but the better lubricated the check ball is, the better it holds the cocking pin in place. I went all weekend, over 3000 rounds, without having the cocking pin pop out. I'll post a picture of how I secured the cocking pin to the marker as soon as I can.

07-05-2006, 01:50 PM
I don't think gun solvent and delrin mix. Neither do gun oil (because it has solvents) unless you mean marker oil. I wouldn't suggest using gun cleaner anywhere on a paintball marker.

07-05-2006, 03:15 PM
Forgive the brain-fart, the old mind isn't what it used to be, if i misled anybody i do apologize. My other sport is combat arms shooting. thanks for catching my mistake sandman.

07-05-2006, 03:24 PM
cool, NP. You could always post some pics of your arms in picture pages. I have a nephew who's an assault rifle collector- we'd love to see some.

07-05-2006, 09:23 PM
yes please do, i'm a firearm nut myself i'd love to see pics of new stuff. Thats probly why i got so much into paintball, its a firearm (sorta) thats highly customizeable. maybe when i go home on leave next month il get some digi pics of my guns back at mom and pops house and bring em back and post em. i hope yall like rifles cuz thats the majority of it, besides some shotguns and vintage hand cannon pistolas. my favorite is an old school ruger blackhawk, i think its a flat top, 44 mag. just pure evil gun that one is.

anyway back to the cocking knob thing. i was taking a closer look at the acs today, hell might as well start callin it by its nickname cuz its shorter to write. i was thinking of going with either blackhawk, nighthawk, or shadow. il put it to a poll one of these days. but yeah i was talking about milling some stuf out when i go home next month. even though im probly goin with an aftermarket bolt in the near future anyway. what do you guys think about just milling the cocking bolt slot clear out the back of the gun. and maybe a little milling towards the front of the gun as well. dont wanna make it and wider though. if anything it could be narrower, i see a good amount of play side to side with the cocking knob. thats probly what makes the things bend. this would allow for all the guys that stick with the stock bolt to just slide the whole damn thing out without having to take the cocking knob out at all unless you just wanna break down the bolt to its bits and pieces. and i would figure any other top cocking aftermarket bolt would slide right out as well without taking the cocking knob out.

you guys think this is a good idea or no? if it turns out to be a good upgrade i could have my buddy hook that up for you pilot guys.

first i gotta see how well it works out. but from an engineering standpoint im curious what you guys think. it make it easier to dissasemble but theres always that pesky structural integrity thing to worry about. it doesnt look to me like it would cause a problem structurally. im knocking out roughly 1/4" till i get to the back of the gun where the back cap butts up against. if that much. i dont have a micrometer with me to give you exact numbers but i do have all that good stuff back at the shop in texas.

sorry this things getting so long. but one last thing, do you think it would interfere with the operation of the gun, i.e. is it designed the way it is to keep the bolt from going all the way to the back of the gun and striking the back cap.

gimme some feedback and if it turns out that it wont f my gun up to do this im gonna play with some milling and see if it cant benefit some people.

07-06-2006, 10:40 PM
hey speaking of the actual firearms i just remembered i got a pic of one of our .50 cal brownings on my phone. its kinda crappy pic but if yall want me to post it il try and see if it works well enough. Once i get the camera il get some better pics, maybe even post some stuff from our helo's on here.
MH-53E seadragons. just a thought. We dont really have much armaments to post pics of though. but a gun that firing directly at humans and animals is banned cuz its inhumane is always cool. stupid geneva conventions, they should make an exception for shooting at terrorists.

07-10-2006, 12:46 PM
now guys lets try to stay on subject. I tried to heat and turn the screw it didnt turn saw some goo might be the lock-tite dont know but still no turn
would a rear cocking bolt fit?? my bolt plug broke anyway?

07-11-2006, 10:04 AM
ya know i was curious of that myself. if that back cap wasn't there (broken off, cut off with a dremmil, whatever) i think the rear cocking knob would work. however do the rear cocking ones have the same design so theyl have that pin sticking out the bottom to connect to the striker right? If so that would give us a lot more options to work with. plus it would probly be a plus to upgrade with a beavertail or something to keep that knob from hitting you in the face.

i dont know, my buddy's spyder is rear cocking i thought, il see if the bolt will interchange.

07-11-2006, 10:37 AM
after my knob broke off in my bolt, i ordered a new one, i went out to play before i got my new bolt. the exisiting bolt did fine, didn't have to cock my bolt so no need really for the knob anyways and if i did need to cock it for some reason i just had an allen wrench there to stick down in it to cock it. other than that it really was no diff in playing or anything, kinda looks more sleek without the knob anyways lol

07-12-2006, 11:04 AM
Well I've been playing with out it in and i just have the cocking knob hanging from my neck just in case. But I do like the beavertail look anyway. so if if i can i will make a custom beaver tail that bolts into the slots up on top where the cocking bolt is supposed to be. what do you guys think?:cool:

07-19-2006, 09:21 AM
Here is a link for a rear cocking bolt.


If your striker/bolt plates has broken off (I'm up to 2 of them now) this will slide right in after you take care of any rough edges on the plate. Still looking for a rear cocking rod that I can replace the set crew in the back of the bolt with.

07-19-2006, 02:08 PM
Here is a link for a rear cocking bolt.


If your striker/bolt plates has broken off (I'm up to 2 of them now) this will slide right in after you take care of any rough edges on the plate. Still looking for a rear cocking rod that I can replace the set crew in the back of the bolt with.

Your strike/bolt plate is technically called the dust cover. If its a pilot kingman will send you a new one slightly modded under warranty. The flanges that slide into the bolt tube are cut shorter.

07-19-2006, 03:24 PM
I saw a picture of an imagine, back was milled so that there was free access to the bolt to cock it. I was wondering if i made the cocking knob a permanent fixture to the bolt can i just mill the little piece in the back so the bolt can go in and out without removing the cocking knob???