PDA

View Full Version : Some Questions On LP


BrandChopian
06-02-2006, 09:21 AM
I'm trying to make my rodeo LP for as little money as possible. Yes I read the otter pages but they seem to be a little outdated, like how he said to drill the V.A. a little bigger but people had been emailing him saying kingman made it bigger stock. I checked the holes on the VA and they already seem to be pretty big. So far I have polished the bolt and bought a 32 deg. spring kit.
I'm going to polish the striker next but I'm a little confused as to polishing the actual insides. Do I polish both the cylinder where the barel screws in and the bolt sits as well as the one where the valve and striker is? Also is polishing the valve striker and trigger sear really worth anything?
Next question: So I have a J&J barrel, a spring kit, and polished internals; so the next thing I'm thinking I should purchase is a madman rocket valve? That would pretty much give me a poormans LP right? Should I drill anything out? (I'm not that good with tools but I go to an engineering school so I'm sure once school opens back up one of my friends can use the shop and drill something out for me) I'm trying to keep a CO2 setup (much cheaper, and I heard it works better with LP) figure I'm spending the money that I would have spent upgrading to a nitro tank on going LP, and getting a better gun because of it. Keeping the CO2 in mind should i get a different reg (I'm not sure I want to spend the money on one) which ones would you recomend? Is there anything else I missed in my LP setup?
One more question I swear :-D My damn venturi is stuck, I can't find needle nose pliers long enough to grab it so i tried sticking two hex screws in between the fins on opposit ends and twisting that with pliers, still can't get it (yes I heated it too damn dic is leaving black crud on my nice polishing job :-P) Any other ideas? It's not reverse threaded or somehting dumb like that? Thanks for reading my long post

druid
06-02-2006, 10:10 AM
I'm trying to make my rodeo LP for as little money as possible. Yes I read the otter pages but they seem to be a little outdated, like how he said to drill the V.A. a little bigger but people had been emailing him saying kingman made it bigger stock. I checked the holes on the VA and they already seem to be pretty big.
Personally, I'd think that the site is designed with older model spyders in mind...since there are more of them and they are cheaper for the younger generation to acquire.
So far I have polished the bolt and bought a 32 deg. spring kit.
I'm going to polish the striker next but I'm a little confused as to polishing the actual insides. Do I polish both the cylinder where the barel screws in and the bolt sits as well as the one where the valve and striker is?
You could polish the bolt tube simply by taking a new battleswab, remove the rubber tubing in the center, add the coumpund to the lamb'swool, stick it in a drill and polish it that way. I don't think it's necessary as I have never done this and have successfully converted at least 6 markers to LP.
Bottom tube, I'd say yes and in the manner I depict ^^here^^.
Also is polishing the valve striker and trigger sear really worth anything?
yes because once you remove the dark layer off the striker, it has less resistance. Same goes for the sear. Add a thin layer of Dow 33 to both to prevent rust.
Next question: So I have a J&J barrel, a spring kit, and polished internals; so the next thing I'm thinking I should purchase is a madman rocket valve? That would pretty much give me a poormans LP right?
The rocket valve is all I've ever used. It's an excellent valve but I suggest getting a spare cupseal/pin just in case...they are expensive to purchase alone and it'll save you on shipping.
Should I drill anything out? (I'm not that good with tools but I go to an engineering school so I'm sure once school opens back up one of my friends can use the shop and drill something out for me)
The VA is the only sticking point. You say that the newer VA's are more flow-friendly so perhaps you won't need to drill anything out.
I'm trying to keep a CO2 setup (much cheaper, and I heard it works better with LP) figure I'm spending the money that I would have spent upgrading to a nitro tank on going LP, and getting a better gun because of it. Keeping the CO2 in mind should i get a different reg (I'm not sure I want to spend the money on one) which ones would you recomend? Is there anything else I missed in my LP setup?
Bob Long Torp will be fine, you really don't need a higher-end reg.
Anything you missed? Yes. Find the exhaust hole in the bottom tube (otter's site) and plug it. Otherwise, the lowered pressure will be vented out that hole and not leave enough to recock the marker.
One more question I swear :-D My damn venturi is stuck, I can't find needle nose pliers long enough to grab it so i tried sticking two hex screws in between the fins on opposit ends and twisting that with pliers, still can't get it (yes I heated it too damn dic is leaving black crud on my nice polishing job :-P) Any other ideas? It's not reverse threaded or somehting dumb like that? Thanks for reading my long post

Take a flat-head screwdriver (that fits in the bolt face) that you don't mind ruining. Cut a notch in the blade that will fit over the fins of the venturi (would look like a tuning fork) deep enough to get a good bite on it. It's not reverse threaded, you just need some muscle because even after the locktite dries, it's still clogging the threads and making it difficult to move.