View Full Version : Acs bolt and lp

05-18-2006, 04:27 PM
I have been reading alot oabout going lp on my pilot acs and everyone says that you need to get rid of the acs bolt because it won't seal well enough for lp. Has anyone tried to machine an oring groove in the bolt. If you make your measurements right and turn it out on a lathe you should be able to seal better and keep the acs bolt.(Rright???)

05-18-2006, 04:49 PM
I thought about doing the same thing. I don't think there's enough material thickness to machine a groove without really weakening it. Better to just get an Alamo or blue bolt:


I contacted Alamo & they said the TLX will fit the Pilot.

05-20-2006, 04:15 PM
I am looking at the bolt and it may be thin but i could jsut use a thinner oring therefore a smaller groove. I believe it will work. The thing i worry about is to much drag and then acs is useless anyways. any thioghts on that line?

05-20-2006, 04:26 PM
yep, if you use a machinists lathe you most likely can ... 1 on the front .. 2 more in the middle maybe ??

There most likely is enough thickness ... it's worth trying though isn't it ... if your gonna get an aftermarket either way ..why not ...

Try #15's still though ..other o-rings would have to stretch and such ...

05-20-2006, 07:17 PM
Or you could just go LP and use the stock bolt. I did and it works fine.:waytogo:

05-20-2006, 08:46 PM
one problem ... he doesn't have the sock bolt ... remember !!??!! .. he has a pilot acs....

05-21-2006, 03:17 AM
That's what I meant, I have the ACS too.

05-21-2006, 09:30 AM
eh .. many people seem to have recocking issues with the acs bolt ... and you won't really get as lowpressure as you should

05-21-2006, 12:44 PM
Any top-cocking bolt should fit provided the cocking knob is long enough to clear the sight rail....
One of the recocking issues seems to be a lack of O-rings. Without a proper seal, air leaks out around the bolt. Another seems to be that that because the bolt collapses upon itself...slowing reaction times (my theory only) of the bolt's movement and airflow. Click the below links...

Spyder Bolt Orings (http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=SQ21CY-cJDa1W8vsh811oYVVAWKQGlbWAUU=?ProductID=2oesFAY7AW UAAAD3UuGlA_2s)

Orange Bolt for the Pilot (http://www.compulsivepaintball.com/Itemdesc.asp?CartId={EVEREST89779FB0-6E38-414E-8EB9-41081C3CEBEC}&ic=11977&eq=&Tp=) This one has O-ring chanels to adjust for the marker.


05-22-2006, 07:10 PM
ok just got a 32 degrees magnaport valve. i hope this was good choice any opinions out there?

05-26-2006, 03:44 PM
i've always seen those things are for non-e spyders, maybe you'll prove them wrong lol.

05-26-2006, 05:35 PM
Let me start telling you my setup. Pilot ACS 05, 32*Valve, 32* Spring kit, J&J Ceramic, DH Titanium Striker, Stock ACS Bolt, Assault Block V/A, WGP Ergo Reg. I even tapered the back of the cup seal for easier flow. All this times 2, my son and I have the same gun. I am fairly mechanically inclided and not a complete bonehead either.

I could not get this thing to work. I tried everything. I got the operating pressure to 375 psi, but at only 250 fps max, it would not go any higher. The lowest I got it to recock was 320 psi. Some blamed it on my Regulator, my valve, and others blamed it on my ACS bolt. THe bottom line is the valve is not the greatest. I/you probably should have gotten a Rocket valve. I will be posting 2 used to tune only, DH Titanium strikers on the B/S/T soon. I'm back to the stock striker, Med Main/Med Valve running at 600 psi. I just got tired of screwing around.

I don't have the best opinion about Spyders right now. I wasted a lot of money trying to make this thing better. My son and I will probably get rid of our pilots at the end of the summer and get a couple of Smart Parts Nerves, or Autococker Super Stocks.

05-26-2006, 05:55 PM
Sorry to hear that Bishop. I'm sure you've read some of my posts on my journey into LP. I have the Dark Horizon hammer too and realize the dwell time can be less with a lighter hammer. I'm running around 325psi on co2 and shooting around 260fps. It was initially lower than that until I fiddled around with the springs, finally resting on the lightest valve spring and stock main spring. One thing I did was to shim the spring at the hammer rather than the velocity adjuster. I took the left over threaded plug from the Assault Block and inserted it into the hammer where the spring goes- it fits perfectly. This also gives the hammer a wee bit more moving mass/weight.(also I polished the hammer with a dremmel and never dull magic wadding polish, it's like a mirror) The only other differnces between us is I have a Bandit Bolt valve and Empire regulator. I really wish I could give you some more help with you and you're son's markers. If you're interested, I'll let you know if the Bandit Bolts delrin o-ring bolt helps velocity and general function. Good luck.

05-26-2006, 07:03 PM
I'm done spending money on these turds. Completely washing my hands of the spyders. My son's birthday is tomorrow and he hopes to get enough cash to get himself a descent gun sooner than the end of the summer. I’m stuck with mine.

THanks for the offer though.

05-26-2006, 07:29 PM
i am looking for a reg now and even emailed otter. I almost got that ergo reg but the recharge isnt' as good as the torpedo or the stabilizer so i wait to find a good one or have permissionfromthe wife to buy a new one.
The valve otter says isn't the best but it will work. so i will play i only got 10 bucks in the valve so i am not to upset if i have to buy a new one.