View Full Version : hammer mod question

05-02-2006, 04:36 AM
I own a Pilot & have polished my hammer to a mirror finish. I'd like to lighten it some now. Where can I drill to remove some material? I was looking at the sundragon aftermarket hammer and it has the sides removed to lighten it, and they claim it helps in flow / turbulance reduction. Could I modify my stock one like this?


Thanx for any help.:shamrock:

05-02-2006, 11:21 AM
I don't see why not, but I personally wouldn't attempt it without at least low end metal working tools and skill.

Since the flats shouldn't need very high precision you could probably get away with using a drill press, a milling bit, and a cross-slide vise like this one (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32996"). Basically a getto milling machine. It works, but take it slow: Drill presses don't have the right barrings for side loads like this and you can throw the thing out of alignment easily (or worse, cause the chuck to come loose). I only cut soft metals and wood this way myself, but a single piece shouldn't be a big issue so long as you go very, very slowly (use multiple passes) and use cutting oil.

If you really wanted to try and getto hack it, a decent bench vise and an angle grinder could probably do the trick as well. But it wouldn't be easy and would be much more dangerous. Of particular worry is the wheel catching the round as you're grinding and whipping itself around the hammer. Not only could this easily cause an injury, it's also likely to screw up your hammer by leaving a trail all the way around it that you'd have to polish out.

If you want to get into metal work more seriously...a decent mini shop mill can be had these days for under $500.

05-02-2006, 11:50 AM
Can I drill the rear horizontally/perpendicular to the sear catch & bolt pin hole?

05-02-2006, 12:58 PM
you're describing the 'swiss cheese' mod. Basically, you drill a few holes perpendicular to the length of the striker. Yes it's been done and yes it lightens the striker but you have to make absolutely sure of two things...
1. Deburr all the holes so they don't screach/gouge the striker tube
2. do not drill through the flat spot that the sear engages.

and you're going to need a carbide drill bit because the striker's one tough, little mother. Use a drill press so you can lock the work down and use oil CONSTANTLY on the drill tip to keep it from burning/breaking/lubricate/remove debris FROM THE HOLE YOU ARE MAKING.

05-02-2006, 01:14 PM
-yep, I already gave up. It's obviously case hardened and now that it's as slippery as snot on a doorknob from polishing, I can't even get a small bit started. I'm just gonna order a Dark Horizon titanium unit.

08-06-2006, 06:44 PM
I'm considering doing this but one thing concerns me. It seems like the holes could cause the spring to bind so if I do mine I plan on chamfering the inside of the holes.