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View Full Version : Put my stock valve back in


crimsonguard
04-29-2006, 03:51 PM
Well, I kept having issues with recocking with high rates of fire. I tried lots of spring combos to get the velocity right, but the recocking is constant. Up pressure, doesn't do anything. I have cut my light main, and it may be contributing to the problem.
So I decided, after getting only 400 shots from a 48/3000, it was time to put the stock valve back in. I knew this would also help me out with velocity. After I put it in I figured I would start with a stong valve and med main combo. I started the pressure at 350psi and it fired hard. I lowered to 300psi and it still fired hard. I went all the way down to 200psi, with no recocking issues under high ROF. Checked velocity... hitting 220FPS@200psi and then I ran outta air.

I will try some more spring combo's, after I get some more air. Gonna pick up a 68/4500 tomorrow. Getting really tired of driving back and forth for refills. Figured this would save a trip every other time and it was time for the upgrade anyway.

Moe
04-29-2006, 04:18 PM
Silly Spyders....

Hob Hayward
04-29-2006, 04:43 PM
You can mod your NDZ valve to open up the passage back to the striker. Just drill the smaller hole to be larger. The super light main should make iteasier for the gun to recock though...

crimsonguard
04-29-2006, 06:29 PM
Good suggestion Hob. Although I think if I get the gun running at lower pressure with the stock valve, I will list the NDZ for sale in my local forum. I got a couple things to try tomorrow.

Hob Hayward
04-29-2006, 06:36 PM
Yeah, see with the NDZ, the top hole is larger, but not the striker opening, so a higher percentage of the air ends up going to the ball rather than the striker, thus your recock problems. Thats why opening up the back hole should help. One method is to drill 3 tiny holes in a triangle around the back, one at a time and then test after each one. A guy had the same problem on pbreview, and this is how he fixed it. Shoulda posted this before, but yeah...

DRAGON
04-29-2006, 08:10 PM
If I got this right, all opening the back hole is going to to is create leaks because it will make the pin wobble. It will also give the channel a rough finish which will create more friction. The smart way to open up more pressure to the striker would be to file the flats of the valve pin down more. This will open up more area for the passage of pressure -

crimsonguard
04-30-2006, 10:47 AM
If I got this right, all opening the back hole is going to to is create leaks because it will make the pin wobble. It will also give the channel a rough finish which will create more friction. -
He means to drill a small hole on the valve body, not actually open up the pin bore.
I retested today after buying a new PE 68/4500 and 06 empire cover. Set pressure at 250psi--about 230fps right where I want it. I know with a quick change of springs I can get velocity higher, but this is good for now. Tried to rip some reballs, but the T-board wouldn't go. Set to defaults, and reset my settings, with lower debounce and just got bouncing. So, I wanted to be sure the LP is perfect and put the IPI 3.0 board back in. Hammered out 100 rounds quick fast. Wondering if I just get rid of the T-board or play around with it another time. The season has started and I got to have a good reliable marker. Wondering that I may sell the T-board as it seems I've tried everything.
As for how efficient the gun is right now? Well, I only fired about 500psi on about 200 rounds. The tank had 2500psi fill, which would mean approx. 1000rounds, where it would be about 650rounds on a regular spyder.