04-23-2006, 05:51 PM
I need help drilling the eyes for my 05 spyder electra. I wondered if anyone has a template for drilling the holes on this style of marker? I'm using hybrid tech shades iron cross eye covers (intimidator style)
04-23-2006, 06:33 PM
*****ORIGINALLY POSTED BY THE TROOPER*****
Okay, this is going to be a big one, and will be a work in progress.
This mod is to help everyone understand the process involved in doing an eye install for the T-Board, IS Board, and the XSF board. Now if using the XSF eye covers the trigger frame will not require milling, but the eye drilling for the body is the same. In doing this this step by step I chose to use the OtterscCustoms eye template. I feel this will help standardize things. Just to let you know, if you have a Flash, Xtra, and some of the newer bodies the template will not work, so therefore you will need to measure everything out. Just to show you the difference in the E-99 and the Xtra see photo.(E-99 on the left, Xtra on the right)
You will need the following tools: drill, dremel with cutting disk, #2-56 tap the bit size is a #50 (#4 - 40 tap can be used but you will need to drill the cover hole for the bigger screw, this is also a more comon size and comes with drill bit and can be found at Lowes), and some #2-56 (for the stock Timmy screws) or #4-40 stainless steel screws 1/2" long. You will first need to print out the template to scale. Template can be found at http://www.ottersccustoms.com/pdf/eye-template.pdf ,and what I mean by print it out to scale is, there is a scale at the bottom of the template it must measure 1 inch. (look at the picture to see what I mean) You may need to play with your printer sizing to enlarge it, or just print it out and enlarge it on a copier. (I think mine was 106% BUT YOURS MAYBE DIFFERENT)
Picture of the scale and template.
Now that you have your scale to size (1 inch), cut out the template and the holes for the screws and detents and eyes.
Now line up the feedneck screw holes and make sure the dotted line where the eyecover screw goes is centered in the valley between the top and bottom tube. This is very inportant. If it doesn't you run a risk of drilling into the botom tube which will create an air leak, so pay attention. The following pictures will show the steps. (I printed my template out on an ImageSetter that I have, that is why my template is see through, plus it made it durable so I could reuse it) After you made sure everything lines up, mark the holes to be drilled with a marker.
Now notice the 2 silver holes in the valley between the two tubes. Disreguard first one as it was from the origonal template, the 2nd one is the corrected hole. The red hole is where the eye will be drilled.
Now double check that all your measurments are correct. Meaning that if the eye hole 2 1/4" from the front on one side it should be 2 1/4" from the front on the other. So once you have double and tripple checked all your hole markings it is time to start drilling. Lay the body on a clean flat work bench or drill press table. You will need to shim the bottom tube so that the body is level for drilling. I generaly use two penies or two quarters for this, just place one at the front of the bottom tube and one at the back of the bottom tube. In the pictures below I have shown you with a square how the body should be. Notice the side of the top tube compaired with the square, one picture (shimmed) shows both lips of the cut touching the square and on the other picture (not shimmed) only one is.
Now that you have the body leveled out you can begin drilling. I usally start with the eye holes first so that I can pre assemble the marker and test fit the eyes and double check the cover mounting holes line up.
To drill the eye holes I do it in steps, I start off with a 5/64" drill bit. Start by drilling at a angle to avoid the bit from walking around, then slowly level it out. (If you are using a drill press I would recamend moving the bit all the way into the chuck except for about 1/4". This will keep the bit from walking.) Now when your done with this first hole, double check the measurement and compare it with the other side. If you find that your off on the hole you will need to revise the eye placement on the other side to match. Now that you have done that, shim the body and repeat the same process for the other side. Once the bit has entered the inside tube try to line it up with the other hole This will insure that the holes align. Once the holes are completed, repeat the process with a 7/64" bit. (XSF and IS board users, this will be you final bit since your eyes are 7/64.) T-Board users will need to go to a 3mm or #31 bit after they completed the process with the 7/64 inch bit.
Now that the eyes are done now you should drill the second detent hole. Double check that the measurement is correct, I usally use the right side eye cover and flip it over to the left line up the mounting hole on the body with the mounting hole on the cover then measure the distance from the front of the marker to the center of the detent knotch. If it is 2" then make sure the detent hole is 2" from the front of the marker. I use a 3/16 inch bit for the detent hole.
Now it is time to drill and tap the mounting holes for the covers. grab your eyes and put them in the marker, clear on the left side and the smoked color eye on the right side. Install the detents into the covers and place them oin the marker in there proper location. now look though the screw hole on the cover and see if it lines up with the mark you made on the body. If it does then your doing fine. The stock timmies use a #2-56 screw so I would recamend that tap be used. However, you can get a #4-40 tap with the proper drill bit at Lowes or Home Depot, They run bout $2.75 for the pack. The #2-56 tap is hard to find in most cases. I highly recamend a drill press for this hole.
Now it is time to knotch the trigger frame for the eye wires. NOW REMOVE THE BOARD IF IT IS INSTALLED ALREADYI use a 3mm carbide porting bit for this but you can use a dremel and a cutting wheel. You wanna make it deep enough to keep the wires from getting pinched from the body. Mount the trigger frame to the body and install both covers without the eyes. Now mark the frame where the front of the eye cover is on the frame. (thist will give you an idea where to stop making the channel for the wires.) There is not that much to say since the following pictures should explain everything. Just notice how the channel runs where the trigger sits. You don't want you wires touching the trigger because this will cause friction on the trigger and wear on the wires. So keep a lip the to keep them seperated.
04-24-2006, 03:11 PM
kool... i needed help too, thanx