View Full Version : My home milling

04-18-2006, 06:48 PM
Well i'm done my milling project. Cut the valve hole bigger. opened up my VA, and poked a hole thru my body for eyes.

!st the VA didn't go to badly. could only open it up to 3/16 because of the mount hole.

2nd the valve was a PITA. that is some hard a$$ steal they use there. took me like ten minuits for the drill press to get thru it. I hope i didn't smash it too badly. i had it wraped in leather but i really had to crank down on it.

3rd cutting the eye holes was a nightmare. the most critical phase. first my bit kept walkign all over the place due to the angled cut surface. the TITANIUM bit exploded half way thru. and i had to go at the speed of a snail so that it wouldn't just walk down the body. i think i got it straight thru but the bit i had left was too smal so i may have to open it up a bit more with the dremel. i think i'll just epoxy the eyes in there. if they break somewhere down the line there only $10. disposable in my book.

PS: Depending on how things go back together i may need a new VA, Valve and predrilled body, lol.

04-18-2006, 07:55 PM
The eye holes were so difficult because you didn't use any sort of process. The holes should be drilled in at least in 3 different stages using 3 different drill bits to progressively make the holes larger. From your description it sounds like you either used cheap or dull bits as well. Nuther thing.....aluminum is a soft metal and requires a slow drill speed. You want to cut/shave the metal with the bit not melt it. If the speed is too fast it takes forever to drill through it -

04-18-2006, 07:57 PM
slow bit just apparently cheap :) i think it got the job done though

04-19-2006, 05:06 AM
Dragon is right though about the eye drilling process. You have to do it in stages. First you use a very small drill bit to make a pilot hole so you have somewhere for your drill bit to follow. You do that with a hand drill and you start out drilling it at an angle then slowly bring the bit up to 90* to the body. Now you go to the drill press and make your hole all the way through with a slightly larger bit. After you have the hole all the way through you go to your final bit, which should be the size of your eyes.

04-19-2006, 05:56 AM
well luckly since the bit i had to finish with was too small i still have an opertunity to clean it up. i guess i had too much faith in the drill press.

04-19-2006, 07:56 AM
The drill press really is the only way to do it correctly, but unfortunately the bits that you use are so small that they flex easily. Trust me you don't want to do it with a hand drill. I had a friend that tried, eventhough I had the drill press and told him he could use it, and messed his up and had to buy a new body.

04-19-2006, 04:32 PM
Ehhh speed bits are fine for aluminum if you use them correctly.... (which i do use it correctly) Yes i have done many succsesful eye instalations and only done a 4 step process with only drilling twice..... but then again everyone is diffrent....

Humm titanium drill bit exploded... are you sure you didnt have a steel drill bit tipped with titanium?

04-21-2006, 04:03 PM
well first problem. though i didn't damnage the threads of the va when i drilled it i did nick the sides re the orings need toseal up against. lol scratch one VA valve felt good just blowing on it. well see what 800 psi does to it

good news on the eyes at least. appears they are not very picky about how there aligned. as long as there in front of eachother and not more than like 45* off from each other you're all good!

Passed valve preassure check. I ended up Jb weldning the LPC onto my screwed VA, lol. But it pressured up nicely and the valve cup seal is seatign beautifully. no leaks, no problems. ok so one problem. i was test fitting my eyes and it got stuck in the hole. i mean really stuck, and i don't want to force it. should i just leave it as is and cut the wires to route them or should i force it out? i figure if its in its in. i'm having a bit of a problem with the power feed side getting the power feed weld to let my reciever eye in but nothing a dremel can't fix!

04-22-2006, 10:27 AM
appears i'm a one man show here but anyway i'll keep goign with my progress. Opened up teh second hole a bit and i'm ready to cram the second eye in there. I'm guessing it will be just as permenant as the first one was. How do you guys run these eye wires?

04-22-2006, 10:48 AM
ok dry run #2 isn't quite as successfull.

yes the eyes detect that there is a ball in the breech, BUT the gun only fires when level. apparently the eyes are a slight bit too far back by a milimeter or so. when a ball rolls forward against the ball detent the marker can no longer see it. as soon as you tilt it up again it can fire. the stock ball detent does not look like it is going to do the job for me. :( what detent upgrades are there for sypders?

04-22-2006, 12:39 PM
looks like your's is the old style rubber detent than the ball detent ... you could always try a timmy detent .. not sure that'll help any though ... is there anyway you could move the eyes a bit forward ??

04-22-2006, 03:33 PM
Maybe drill a second hole in the Things that holds the detent.... like back a few cm.

04-23-2006, 07:34 AM
oppon further investigation thats not my biggest problem. i think as long as it has balls on top of the breeched ball it will not have a problem on the detent side(after i get a sligtly stronger detent). as long as it has a ball holding it down and its not bending the detent forward it will trip to beam.

BUT - i have another problem, the ball when i stacked a few up in the power feed settles BACK against the bolt missing the beam from the rear. THis is a PITA. how can i keep it from rolling back?


this is the lastes and greatest issue, obviously the O is the detent and the X is where my eye is set. the second ball IS down inside the breach just like that when ready to fire? is there such thing as a rear detent? i'm using a bob long cyclone III bolt with the venturi removed

04-23-2006, 08:05 AM
eyes should have been further up with eye delay set high, probably would have taken care of your issue. As to mod it to make it work now, sry no good suggestion to offer.

04-23-2006, 08:10 AM
Hows about sanding my striker or my sear to get the bolt just a bit further forward. all i need is a milimeter or so. so i could either take a bit off my sear or a bit off my striker to get the tolerances closer?

EDIT: damn i was a bit worried about that, i used the otter template. and thats about as high as i could have gone with the powerfeed on the other side. how much higher did they need to be?

EDIT 2: OK Ok another idea. the powerfeed side is pretty tight as i said. what about only redrilling one side can i have the eyes shoot diagonally? THe eyes do not exactly need to be DIRECTLY across from each other. in my testing i could be up to a 45* offset and still have the eyes detect each other. I could move the detent side up a few milimeters and have it detect across the breach again should catch more of the ball?


04-24-2006, 05:06 AM
anyone? dremel is standing by.... i'm just looking for some feedback here please?

04-25-2006, 04:29 PM
ttt - still afraid to try another step though i'm close to grinding the sear a bit

04-25-2006, 05:09 PM
Wouldn't it be better for my bolt to be flush with my breach hole? not a few mm's recessed?

04-25-2006, 06:33 PM
add a second detent hole to locate the ball to where you need it

04-25-2006, 07:50 PM
damn too late, cut my striker. lol. my bolt sits right were i want her now though perfectly flush with my breach
Nice and flush :) and my eyes now detect the ball in the breach as long as there is pressure on the ball from the next ball up so it stays in the bottom of the breach, and it doesn't roll in front of the detent. so i figure new detent and she'll be set!

04-26-2006, 07:03 AM
dry fire test. it cycles!!!!! at 800 psi, lol

Hob Hayward
04-26-2006, 03:37 PM
Ah very nice, I had the same eye problem on my brothers mongoose. What happened was I had to fill the holes with jbweld. Twice acctually... but on the third drill, THe eyes ended up being diagonal, not top to bottom but back to front, it works not so alls good...

04-27-2006, 04:08 AM
let me know how the striker mod worked, when you play for real. I have a friend that had the same issue and if that worked then I will have him do the same thing.


04-27-2006, 12:09 PM
cool i should have it going in a month or so. i'm out of town this weekend so i can' tget much work done. be back on monday. It just didn't make sence to me that i should drill them high and then have it wait before firing. i figured the whole point of the eyes is to tell when a ball is properly chambered not when it is entering the chamber. So i figure this marker is going to either function really well or really baddly. time will tell. there is always the 06 electra if i really screw things up :)