View Full Version : My Spyder TLX....

04-07-2006, 06:14 PM
I got into the sport about a year ago. I rented many times beforehand and had a blast every time. The last time I rented, a buddy of mine and I decided to buy guns just to save money from renting as well as being able to buy ammo cheaper compared to the renters. My friend Chris found a guy selling two brand new Spyder TLX's that he had won in a tournament. Did some quick research to find that the $100 cdn that the guy wanted for each gun was quite a good deal. We made the deal and each had a new packaged TLX. We began playing rec ball with a few guys that I work with and some of there friends. Almost all of em were using electrics or RT, but I felt that my gun held up pretty good and that it also had plenty of room for upgrades...

It started with wanting a better barrel. I picked up an all black Freak Jr. with only the 693 bore. I was running the gun with a 12oz CO2 and getting more shots with the freak barrel over the stock tube. At this point I had already gotten tired of being rain on with paintballs from the other guys with electrics, so I looked for either a used e-frame or a spyder with working e-frame. Found one within days... an E99 Avant w/ shocktech bolt, teardrop, and a JT 2pc barrel. I sold the bolt to a buddy with an E99. The teardrop, VA and expansion chamber went to two other people. So I had made $10 from the deal and had the e-frame. The only thing was that the e-frame would only fire a few times with CO2 on... then not fire at all. Read through this forum and others to realize that I had most likely had either a bad cap or solenoid. I wasn't able to find a capacitor locally and I was getting ticked off cause I had upgraded other people and not myself, lol. I finally gave in and worked a deal with someone selling an Imagine to offer them my mech trigger frame and cash for his almost new e-frame and a CP flame drop. I found a used Halo TSA backman very cheap that worked excellent with the setup. The local shop put the lapco clamping feednecks on sale for $15 so I had to have one. It has lowered the profile and holds the loader solid. Searching forums I also found a guys selling two Check-It Assault blocks, one like new black(with a Java Gauge) and one brand new chrome. Took em both and sold the chrome one to my E99 buddy. Now I could rip my gun without any CO2 spitting and much better consistency.

During a day of play I would get a couple chops, nothing terrible considering at worst I was probably goin through 1000-1500 paintballs. I read reviews and decided to pick-up a delrin ACS bolt. Since it has been in, I have chopped only two balls(probably during break in) and shot two cases of paint. I was loving it!! I switched to HPA shortly after and the new style freak front in blue anno that is almost a dead match to the TLX body, as well as two more freak inserts.

Christmas had rolled by and we weren't playing outdoors anymore. Occassionally we hit up the indoor places when they have the BYOP specials on. Other times we go, its still expensive but great target practice shooting up the renters. I had seen the OtterSC site when I first bought the TLX and found it very helpful. I came across it a second time looking through these forums and was intrigued by the low pressure conversion. As I read on, I noticed I had many of the parts recommended/required. What that be the end of the upgrades? Or dump a little more into this thing? My E99 buddy got tired of his old spyder and upped to a ICD Promaster. I figured I could show him and everyone else up. I would build a high end marker for well under the cost of one.

EBAY came in handy for cheap parts. The NDZ valve and Maddman spring kit came to $40cdn new/shipped. I wanted a better regulator and got a CP like new in box for half the price of new. A piece of macroline and a NDZ ASA with on/off, and a Bob Long 600psi gauge(not pictured) would finish the conversion. I put it all together last weekend and was able to set at 310psi without knowing FPS. I am awaiting a pocket chrony with FPS and BPS that I have ordered from eBay. Then I wil be able to setup properly trying different spring combo's. After all this time had passed, I was getting very quick at firing the stock e-frame often capping it. Recorded me firing especially when I thought that I had capped and had friend who is audio engineer tell me if I had or not... Affirmative.

By this point I have read and heard so much about the T-board I felt as if I should have bought it before now. Ebay again for less than scenario dreams lists it. I have installed it and can already tell that I'm firing faster with the default settings(no air). I did not get the eyes and feel that I'd like to try the board out with just the anti-chop bolt alone... I'll see how its tests, if its no good then I'll order the eyes and the T-chip...lol.

Well I believe thats it.. ah nope. Just picked up a Halo B with broken on/off switch. Got this for a steal of a price and I'm jus gonna upgrade it to a reloader B instead of another Z-board. Oh and the E99 Avant?? Well I had so many extra parts from the TLX, the IPI board from the newer frame and now probably a good second hopper(halo TSA) that I reassembled the old E99. It will soon be painted to match all the parts.

I haven't had any chance yet to try out the low pressure or t-board so I will post when I do. ANY feedback would be appreciated as I have felt like an idiot from time to time building up a Spyder to this extent. Don't get me wrong I have enjoyed doing all the upgrades and love my gun. Will it perform like a high end marker? Bearing in mind that it is still a blow back.

A much special thanx to OtterSCustoms, PBreviews.com, Badlands Paintball(sale prices), torontopaintball.com(server shutdown), eBay(lol), and last but not least the Spyder Forums.

And along came a spyder.....

04-07-2006, 06:16 PM
lol sry didn't realize I went on that long...

04-07-2006, 06:20 PM
Looks good. I'm not a big fan of the Flame drop, but that's my own preference. I'm sure you'll love the T-Board though and the only thing I would recommend is getting HPA because Co2 + high rates of fire = not your friend. Looks good so far though.

Welcome to the boards. :)

04-07-2006, 06:53 PM
Yeah I've got one, I just mention it briefly. It is just a small 48/3000 but I am hoping to get up to 700 maybe 800 shots on it with the LP conversion. Although, I have found many good deals on bigger fiber wrapped tanks that I may be considering. Thanx!!

04-08-2006, 09:57 PM
A much better pic: http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/duanemac/LPSpyder.jpg

04-09-2006, 12:08 PM
looks nice ...
co2's recharge rate is 17 .... not very great ... but you do need to get the eyes with the t-board ...
But yeah i agree with durrell .. i don't really like the flame drop neither ..

04-09-2006, 12:33 PM
Not true, You don't NEED eyes with the t-board, if you have a halo or even an eggy it should keep up just fine.. I didn't read all of you post just because my attention spand isn't that long, so I don't know your hopper situation, but you do not need eyes although they are nice. You can try the board w/o the eyes and if you feel you need them you can buy them later and have some one or yourself install them. I know that Shunut does installs and is very good at it. There are also acouple others on the boards that do installs, just ask around.

Very nice gun.. again, the only thing I have agaisnt it is the drop, but you keep w/e you like and are comftrable with on it. Don't change something just because people on here say to.

04-09-2006, 01:44 PM
Nice gun! I have to say I've always liked the looks of these spyders. Props for the blue/black color scheme - best color scheme ever! (probably why almost all my guns are blue/black as well.)

I do have to second the motion that the flame drop sort of kills it for me, but it's your gun and whatever makes ya happy, man. I also think the feed neck is a bit tall, but again, that's just me. Cosmetically, how about some stick grips, or hybrid grips to finish it off?

Keep up the good work. I always said my spyder was a work in progress, and I was uncomfortable not adding something new to it every month or so, even if it was just cosmetic. Sounds like you have a pretty good face-mower going though....

Welcome to the boards, and have a great time!

04-09-2006, 02:54 PM
Not true, You don't NEED eyes with the t-board, if you have a halo or even an eggy it should keep up just fine.. I didn't read all of you post just because my attention spand isn't that long, so I don't know your hopper situation, but you do not need eyes although they are nice. You can try the board w/o the eyes and if you feel you need them you can buy them later and have some one or yourself install them. I know that Shunut does installs and is very good at it. There are also acouple others on the boards that do installs, just ask around.

Very nice gun.. again, the only thing I have agaisnt it is the drop, but you keep w/e you like and are comftrable with on it. Don't change something just because people on here say to.

... that was what i was trying to imply ... the internet doesn't do a good job of helping either ...

04-09-2006, 03:25 PM
Great feedback people... thanx! Um... I like having a drop to bring the tank a bit closer. As I have noticed a lot of players dont use one and rest the tank on the outside of there arm. All I need is a $5 adapter and I can put the ASA on the trigger frame. But, I like the flame drop. It is a very nice three dimensionally milled piece that just looks great and get quite a few comments(pos and neg).

As for sticky grips.. well I've tried getting them from local shops, but they are all out. I may get them at a place north of here, if I can talk him down on price. Or get them online.

Well I did some test firing today and made a pretty good mess. I am using a reloader b w/rip. I deemed that my paint was bad after some slow firing with a couple barrel breaks. After cleaning the barrel quickly I laid into the trigger with some intense firing. Had some major double firing going on, which led to double feeding from the reloader. What a mess. I know I had bad paint but the double firing was the cause. I've tried quite a bit to get the double firing to go away. I bumped the pressure a tiny bit. I've tried adjusting the trigger. I've adjusted debounce. This has all helped, but firing the board without air I can still hear it double firing when the trigger is slapped. I still have the stock switch from an 05 Imagine, it's like 250gram I think. I have a 50gram, I could swap from an old frame? What you guys think? Would eyes prevent the double fire??

04-09-2006, 03:40 PM
If it is double feeding due to the reloader.. you will need new detends.. I think timmy ones fit, but don't quote me.

04-09-2006, 04:57 PM
I'm pretty sure I've only had one or two double feeds. I know these loaders exert quite a bit of pressure, but I don't think that is my issue. Most cases under intense firing, I think the bolt punches a ball twice. Sometimes they go through and other times the bolt just smashes the ball. Since I lasted posted I have read through an e-frame thread and realized my debounce was way too low. I raised the debounce and adjusted the trigger a hair or two further away from the trigger and I think I have almost rid of the double firing. I'll gas up the marker tomorrow and try again.

04-09-2006, 05:14 PM
Alright.. let us know how it goes.

04-14-2006, 12:15 PM
I got a chance to do some test firing today. My new pocket chrony is in and I went to try it out. It is the "X-Radar" by Custom Chronograph. It seemed to work great, my TLX though, not so great. :o As for the velocity as is..... 310FPS @ 310PSI... ouch lol. So I should get lower.. but where to start? I am using a light valve and light main. Reducing pressure to 290psi with these spring causes burping. Should I try stock valve spring?

As for the T-board, what do you guys usually set dwell and deboune to? I just wanna get a better idea for what the settings should be. I've set the debounce around 25ms, which has seemed to resolve the double firing. But now I am unable to fire rapidly... the solenoid stops triggering, although it fired a shot at a time no prob. This may be do to a low battery.
Thanx in advance :)

04-14-2006, 12:45 PM
310 psi is fine, there is really no need to go any lower. Optimum efficiency for LP spyders is from like 300-400 psi.

04-15-2006, 11:26 AM
Tried again today. I swapped out the light valve for the stock valve. This improved the marker---> 270FPS @ 290PSI . Although these are some sweet numbers, I still need to bring down the velocity. Most indoor fields around here are 225-250 FPS. I can use 270 when we start playing rec ball. Anyone else using a Maddman spring kit?? Should I try the large valve spring? It looks as if it may be too big for the spyder...

I am still having T-board issues as well.... I can hear the solenoid trying to trigger the sear, but it seems the capacitor cant take a charge that quickly?!? This is only the case when I try walking it.

04-15-2006, 12:12 PM
hmm... the larger springs might not fit the VA ... try heavy valve spring ..and light mainspring ...

Umm... well as for your e-frame issue ... is the capacitor new ?? ... could be because it's too old ... is there some kind of liquid that has came out of the capacitor ... or is the top seem bulged out ?? .. signs of a bad capacitor ...

Stupid question .. but is your battery fully charged ?? ...

Hob Hayward
04-15-2006, 02:01 PM
I doubt eyes would affect the double firing at all, well unless, well now, acctually I think they might, it won't be able to fire a second time till the next ball is all the way in... This won't affect double feeding, but if you want, when/if you get eyes put in, you could have the person double detent it. (or do it yourself)

04-15-2006, 02:21 PM
Gonna have to buy a 32* spring kit I guess. The Maddman kit only contains one "useable" valve spring for the compact body, according to the Spyder Pages, and is lighter than stock. The odd one even looks too large. I agree ooglieboogliebob, try the heavy valve and light main next.

I have been wondering that yeah maybe it is just a low battery. The T-board's charging jack seems to sit in a bit away from the hole on the frame. I'm wondering if it is charging at all! :p Check battery with DMM, its sitting at 10.35V. I put into the E99... no probs. The T-board is new from pballchips.com, it was an eBay purchase. The cap looks good. I can set the board to default settings, and it fires quick, but it double fires like crazy.

What are other T-board user's setting dwell and debounce too? :confused: I'm getting a little frustrated with it. I have heard it can be difficult setting up. :(

04-16-2006, 04:29 PM
I have finally found and begun reading the "Official T-Board Thread" found on pbnation.com I should get my T-board issues figured out there. I went ahead and swapped a 50g switch that I had into it. It was sounding better, but I ran outta air before I started walking it. I'm planning to pick up a 32* spring kit, I'll get some more air then.

04-16-2006, 06:19 PM
how did you get the sight rail off, did you just tear it off, does it slide off?

04-16-2006, 06:22 PM
Sight rail?? You may actually have an XTRA opposed to a TLX. The later model body's have the same milling and anno. Does your marker have a rear or top cocking bolt??

04-16-2006, 06:29 PM
its a rear, yeah its like a walmart xtra, its got the body of a tlx

04-16-2006, 06:56 PM
The sight rail just unscrews I believe... I could be wrong.:rolleyes:

04-16-2006, 08:20 PM
Nope im pretty sur it doesnt, but if i were to upgrade to a better bolt would it have to be specifically rear cocking or is there something else i have to buy.?? if that makes sense.

04-16-2006, 08:51 PM
you can mill a slot in the top and get a top cocking bolt, which gives you more possibilities than rear

04-16-2006, 08:52 PM
Your only choice is rear cocking with the Xtra without modification. I plan on putting my stock top cocking bolt from the TLX and putting it into an E99 body which is also rear cocking. I'm just gonna cut a slot on the top of the body for the cocking knob. To cap the back off, haven't figure that out yet, unless I find another TLX type rear cap. Beat me to it matthew

04-17-2006, 04:55 AM
why would you have to cap the back off.

04-17-2006, 09:33 AM
You dont have to... but it would be best to keep any forien material out of the chamber.

04-17-2006, 07:50 PM
is the bob long cyclone bolt x long a good bolt or not.