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View Full Version : Spyder Victor goes LP...


MonkeyWiz
03-26-2006, 06:59 AM
I made it!
My Victor is going on 300-325 psi.

Setup as follows:
* Pure Energy Inline Regulator ~12$ (Second hand)
* Modified stock bolt from a Victor II
(Removed venturi and polished inside and outside + opened up the hole on top) ~0$
* Modified stock vertical adapter
(Opened up holes and polished) ~0$
* Modified stock valve
(Opened up airflow and polished) ~0$
* Modified stock valve pin
(Grind of excess and polish + 'coned' the cup seal) ~0$
* Modified stock striker
(Grind of excess and polish) ~0$
* Switched main spring to medium hard and set the regulator at low.

Now it runs like a god!

In adition to the LP-setup I got a
DYE 14" pipa 'Quiet Riot'
VL Revolution 12V with X-board
Dyed original green JAVA grip, now black

Any suggestions to my next buy?
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PS-before.jpg

ooglieboogliebob
03-26-2006, 09:13 AM
nicce gun :) ... hmm maybe you could get a electro trigger ... besides that .. the gun looks nice .. :) ... and nice color choices ..:p

MonkeyWiz
03-26-2006, 09:55 AM
nicce gun :) ... hmm maybe you could get a electro trigger ... besides that .. the gun looks nice .. :) ... and nice color choices ..:p

:rolleyes: Wasn't really a choice.
I got the VA with LPC and gas through and the red grip as a goodwill gift from a company that screwed up my order (twice).
I mounted the original grip after dying it black.
I will probobly send the gun away for anodizing later this autumn.

Have considered(!?) an e-frame but can't really convince myself to want it.
I mean: Why!? I try to play "one shot - one kill"

ooglieboogliebob
03-26-2006, 10:44 AM
true, that probably is a better way to play .. and when you do have an electro frame .. you can't help but to shoot fast cuz of the adrenaline ... and paint disapears quick ...

... but if not that ... HPA could probably be a good choice :p

druid
03-26-2006, 11:54 AM
yeah...I'd say HPA and you should be done

MonkeyWiz
03-26-2006, 08:33 PM
yeah...I'd say HPA and you should be done
All right then... :)
I'm not even surtain that I want HPA.
It is a bit of a hassle 'cause I have no paintball fields in my area. No refills!
I might consider it if I can get a group of people to chip in on a scuba tank.

I am thinking of getting it annodized, as I said erlier.
I can't decide on a color though.
Every part is supposed to go:
Reg, drop, barrel, LPC, VA and, of course, body.
I was thinking blue/grey (not fade, tone) or black...

MonkeyWiz
03-28-2006, 02:42 AM
I came up with some new colors.
The grey one we spoke about:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PS2.jpg

And then:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PS4.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PS3.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PS5.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PS6.jpg

davidthegr8
03-28-2006, 04:35 AM
get an electric trigger!!!

druid
03-28-2006, 05:26 AM
I said before "Have considered(!?) an e-frame but can't really convince myself to want it.
I mean: Why!? I try to play "one shot - one kill"

If you were to read the thread, I would not have to repeat myself...

wow...quite an attitudinal response for someone seeking praises about his marker...good luck then...

MonkeyWiz
03-28-2006, 07:37 AM
wow...quite an attitudinal response for someone seeking praises about his marker...good luck then...
Well, it kind of bugs me that some people won't read the threads and then answers randomly.
He gave me an answer that I already said no to... :rolleyes:

And no, I am not seeking praise. I'm seeking for help and ideas.
Some kind of input on how to keep on modding.

If my message seemed harsh and unfair, I'm sorry!
I really didn't mean to jump somebody.
It is only so tiresome to get the sam response all the time.

druid
03-28-2006, 08:13 AM
Well, it kind of bugs me that some people won't read the threads and then answers randomly.
He gave me an answer that I already said no to... :rolleyes:
which you will find happens most times...expect it
And no, I am not seeking praise. I'm seeking for help and ideas.
Some kind of input on how to keep on modding.
praise, help/ideas...w/e...you're looking for someone else's opinion and ^^that's^^ not going to get you much help
If my message seemed harsh and unfair, I'm sorry!
I really didn't mean to jump somebody.
It is only so tiresome to get the sam response all the time.
And we all do it and it gets done back to us...noobs come here and don't read the stickys...don't read all of Otter's site...then ask for answers they could find for themselves, simply by reading...blah blah...


but to answer your call for help...

*Feedneck - some kind of clamping style, a low-rise model
*drop - lose the stock drop in favor of another (or none at all)
*Stock asa - lose it for some kind of on/off or unimount (your choice)
*Hopper - is fine since you won't go ESP
*Lose the sight rail...besides being ugly, they have a tendency to scratch goggle lenses.
*You don't want/need a board upgrade and as such, eyes are a moot point.
*Trigger job...tutorial on Otter's site
*S/S line where it goes into the reg...get a 90* adapter and take that weird bend out of it.
*New .45 Grip panels

That's all that's really left to do...

and BTW....I like the gray rendering the most but not in conjunction with the chrome barrel. Since the barrel's aluminum also, it too can be annoed

MonkeyWiz
03-28-2006, 10:00 PM
Thank you Druid, I'll straighten up... ;)

My list of upgrades so far:
1. Anno
2. Feedneck - some kind of clamping style, a low-rise model
3. Drop - lose the stock drop in favor of another (or none at all)
4. Stock asa - lose it for some kind of on/off or unimount
5. Macro hosing with 90* nipple


*Trigger job...tutorial on Otter's site
-That I have done. I shortened the pull and it feels great.

*E-frame
-I think not. It really isn't for me. I play 'one shot - one kill' and do not need any more BPS than the ones I get from a mech frame.

Alex228
03-31-2006, 01:44 AM
Hey Monkey how many fps is your gun shooting?
You see I tried doing the LP setup as well. This is my setup:
Setup as follows:
* Palmer Male Stabilizer (second hand)
* Modified stock bolt from a Spyder Xtra
(Removed venturi and polished inside and outside
* Modified stock valve pin
(I sanded it and polished it)
* Modified stock striker
(sand and polish) ~0$

I am getting a 32* spring kit in a week. The problem is, I can turn my gun to a really low psi but then the gun doesnt shoot as far as it does with it higher? Are you supposed to put the psi as low as it is possible and then adjust your velocity from your main spring?
Also for your bolt you said you made the hole larger. I've never heard of any1 doing that. Is that in otters website? if so could you link me. Also you said you "coned" the cup seal? Could you show me where you got that from? i've also never heard of that. If you could help me with this it would be greatly appreciated.

MonkeyWiz
03-31-2006, 07:32 AM
I'd say you got to wait for the spring kit.
You simply can't get it done without a weak valve spring and a strong rear spring.
Without it, my poor spyder didn't recock at all and kept on 'burping'.
Now I do 285 fps at 300-325 psi.

The bolt setup I got from a lot of places.
Can't seem to remeber where from though.
Some guy from somewhere had recocking probs. and did this mod.
He claims he got 5-10 more fps out of it. I don't know if it helped but it didn't hurt.

<|==
'Coning the cup' or grinding it to a cone made sense when I roamed the web for upgrades.
To evade gasflow restrictions I figured that if the cup is pointy it would abstruct less air. I don't know if it helped but it didn't hurt.
Some LP valve kits uses pointy or 'coned' cup seals.
The Maddman Rocket Valve (http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/949/) for example.


You did:
* Palmer Male Stabilizer
* Modified stock bolt from a Spyder Xtra
* Modified stock valve pin
* Modified stock striker

You also must do:
(Otherwise you have a 'bottleneck' that restricts the airflow)
* Modify stock valve (Open up airflow and polish)
* Modify stock vertical adapter (Open up holes and polish)
* Switch the main springs as described below

Keep in mind that no LP-setup is the other alike.
The basics are the same but my setup will get other results than yours.

* When you are done; set the regulator as low as you can and fire a shot.
* If the striker won't catch the sear; adjust the reg to higher psi and fire away untill it does.
* When the striker is caught by the sear; start worry about the FPS and adjust it.
* If you wont get to the fps you want; give it some more psi and try again.

Valve spring replacement:
strong spring = lower velocity
medium spring = stock spring velocity
weak spring = higher velocity

Main spring replacement:
strong spring = high velocity
medium spring = stock spring velocity
weak spring = lower velocity

druid
03-31-2006, 10:52 AM
alex.......here's what you are looking for.....
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/project.html
and
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/spyder.html#homemod
and
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/vertmod.html

read everything pertaining to Spyders...you won't be sorry you did. Also...chech the links on the left side of the pages...

Alex228
03-31-2006, 12:46 PM
Ok I cant find my camera but i edited Otters pics so you can understand what I mean.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Alex_Deza/paintball/1hole.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Alex_Deza/paintball/2hole.jpg

I added the second hole to the bottom picture. But that is somewhat what ines looks like. So i drill those 2 holes with a 3/16 drill?

In the first picture, mines is the same but it seems the hole is a bit deeper in mines. Anyways I also drill that hole with a 3/16 drill.

If you guys can confirm that then I'll go ahead and do it. For the Valve body though, it says I need a vice to attack the valve to, so until I can borrow some1's vice I guess I'll have to hold on to that upgrade.

ooglieboogliebob
03-31-2006, 04:58 PM
^^ ... QFT ....

but btw ... i think i like the grey better .... red looks ok also ... maybe a bit darker blue .. ??

Edit: .. seems to me i didn't click on the second page ... or even saw it ...

and it seems to me after 4 minutes of reading ... everythings really been explained ...

druid
03-31-2006, 09:58 PM
you can make the holes 1/4" if you want...or completely remove the center section (an oval from hole to hole) or even completely remove the floorplate where thos holes are. The bigger the hole(s), the more air flow you get to the valve.

MonkeyWiz
04-01-2006, 05:17 AM
you can make the holes 1/4" if you want...or completely remove the center section (an oval from hole to hole) or even completely remove the floorplate where thos holes are. The bigger the hole(s), the more air flow you get to the valve.
You mean like this?
http://insanepainsports.com/v-web/productpage/images/100_1929.JPG
Image borrowed from http://insanepainsports.com/page3.html

Alex228
04-01-2006, 07:55 AM
wow thats huge, is that what you did MonkeyWiz

MonkeyWiz
04-01-2006, 12:34 PM
wow thats huge, is that what you did MonkeyWiz
Kind of, but not really as big as that.
I only drilled it out like double the size from original.

MonkeyWiz
04-07-2006, 02:46 AM
I'm not sure I if said this before or not, but feel free to follow any progress at my blog:
http://thepaintballblog.blogspot.com/

Sorry to say I didn't take pictures while doing the mods, but I will get there.

druid
04-07-2006, 08:44 AM
You mean like this?
Image borrowed from http://insanepainsports.com/page3.html

yep...just like that...When I did my Esprit and now the Xtra, I removed that entire floor-plate...like this..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/druidsdecendant/Paintball/My%20mods%20and%20ideas/VerticalAdapter2.jpg

MonkeyWiz
04-07-2006, 09:40 AM
Woah! BIG HOLE!! :p
What did you use to do it with?
We mortals have only ordinary drills and a poor copies of a dremel.

MonkeyWiz
04-08-2006, 12:35 PM
Did the next step:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/th_PIC1.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PIC1.jpg)http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/th_PIC2.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PIC2.jpg)http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/th_PIC3.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/Photochopped/PIC3.jpg)
Made some milling on the rear, opened up the bolt area.
Next step: Get the upgrades from the post office and mount.

Hob Hayward
04-08-2006, 01:20 PM
Whoa, massive hole in that VA, I wanted to do that, but I don't have a good cutting tool on my dremel, and No drill bit nearly that size.

How did you get yours to seal though? I drilled some holes in mine, but It refused to seal, so I ended up epoxying it (bad idea, but I needed it to play the next day...) Do you use teflon tape or the like to get the seal on the threads?

Monkey, thats an awesome job, what dremel tools did you use? (I want to try a similar job on my imagine...)

Also I noticed you got that basic e-trigger, and you now have a CIP Assault Block? (shame on you, I loved seeing that you got your gun down to 300 psi with all stock parts)

MonkeyWiz
04-08-2006, 11:46 PM
Monkey, thats an awesome job, what dremel tools did you use? (I want to try a similar job on my imagine...)

Also I noticed you got that basic e-trigger, and you now have a CIP Assault Block? (shame on you, I loved seeing that you got your gun down to 300 psi with all stock parts)
I still did get all down to 300 psi with stock parts but I wanted to do some cosmetics.
The e-trigger is only for lighter pull and looks. Not bps!

For the job I used
* 'Cut of wheel fiberglass' to make a clean cut
* 'Diamond cutter cylindrical' to even out the edges
* An ordinary steel file to get the edges straight
* Some 600 grit sanding with help of musclepower
* Then, finaly I polished it in two steps with 'felt wheel' in the dremel again

Took me some time but I like the results. The dremel got awfull hot at times.

druid
04-09-2006, 01:57 AM
Whoa, massive hole in that VA, I wanted to do that, but I don't have a good cutting tool on my dremel, and No drill bit nearly that size.
5/16" High-speed cutter, Dremel accessory part #115
How did you get yours to seal though? I drilled some holes in mine, but It refused to seal, so I ended up epoxying it (bad idea, but I needed it to play the next day...) Do you use teflon tape or the like to get the seal on the threads?
It sounds to me as if you may have knicked the VA threads...only a tiny nick will cause a massive leak. You only need to remove enough of the floorplate to get the flow you need. The portion I removed is not quite as large as the regulator threads so the reg will screw-in as normal...and stop where it normally would. I started by drilling a hole directly in the center...where the pin-nipple is, then worked my way out-ward. I use Teflon tape...about 4 complete winds...on the threads of the reg and it seals just fine.

.................................................. .......

MonkeyWiz
04-09-2006, 08:57 AM
Part #115 -LINK (http://www.dremelonline.com/dremel/productDetails.do?productId=505534)-
http://www.shopservices.nl/photo/22273.gif


Knicked threads? Could it really make the VA leak?
Isn't the seal (o-ring) supposed to do the sealing? (No flame, it's an honest question)
Anyhow, I put som higher density grease on all threads.
Thick enough to grab and loose enough to let me unscrew it.

Hob Hayward
04-09-2006, 04:37 PM
Well, this morning I dremeled out my entire VA same as yours is druid, but the airflows the same as before apparently... I still won't recock below 450... I guess I'll be getting a cip assault block now... I had figured that before I was getting turbulence problems, but it seems either I still have them or somthing else is the problem, I know the reg is good enough, but I can't make sense of this...

Oh and about the VA, what I don't get is that the LPC screws in a bit less than halfway into the opening, mine is cut down now, but for yours, it should take up almost half of the opening you drilled, and the o-ring is what seals it, not the threads... =/

I don't get how Monkey's could get so low on modded stock parts while I can't get within 100 psi of that... Does having a gauge in the VA affect it any way?

druid
04-09-2006, 07:46 PM
monkey...yep that's the tool I used and you still need to teflon tape the threads on the reg ir it will leak...o-ring or not...and yes, the smallest knick on the threads in the VA can make it leak.

hob...it's your delrin ACS bolt. It's not high flowing enough. Try the stock bolt to see if it goes any lower. Did you drill out the stem that goes into the body as well? here's a pic...see the hole where the screw threads in on the bottom? DON'T DRILL IT THAT YOU OPEN THAT HOLE! It will make it leak like a rainspout...the pic..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/druidsdecendant/Paintball/My%20mods%20and%20ideas/VerticalAdaptermodinPaint.jpg
And as far as the LPC not going in all the way, I'd wager that the gauge you installed is interfering with it (it's in the way)...try getting a gauge with a shorter profile stem to thread in...

MonkeyWiz
04-10-2006, 12:38 AM
monkey...yep that's the tool I used and you still need to teflon tape the threads on the reg ir it will leak...o-ring or not...and yes, the smallest knick on the threads in the VA can make it leak.
Go figure... :)
I havent had a leak so far. (not knicked any threads though)
I don't get how Monkey's could get so low on modded stock parts while I can't get within 100 psi of that... Does having a gauge in the VA affect it any way?
I guess I got lucky.
The theories are consistent but markers aren't.
My Victor likes the mods I've done so far.
I think it is hoging gas though, I'll test that when season starts when I can play some.
It does however recock and fire 285fps at ~325psi.

Alex228
04-10-2006, 05:19 AM
Yeah i drilled the holes in my va and gauge and when i start shooting, after like 20 shots, it starts leaking through the barrel. I replaced the cup seal twice and its still doing it. Should I just get a new valve and assault va, or do u guys have a solution.

druid
04-10-2006, 03:05 PM
did you remove the valve at all? and reinstall it properly? the cup seal will only seal against the one hole properly and if it's backwards, it won't. Try a hard valve spring on the cupseal to put more pressure against it. It might just be enough to stop a small leak...

Leaking up the barrel is going to be a/combination of:
* a faulty cupseal
* a mis-shapen valve pin (getting 'hung up')
* valve-pin guide (star-thinggy) shifting and getting hung up
* valve O-rings need oil/grease or replacement
* valve's installed backwards
* not enough psi and it's escaping past the cupseal (not the case here)

Hob Hayward
04-11-2006, 06:21 PM
Yeah druid, I drilled out the hole between the va and the valve chamber a bit, but not too much, I havn't breached that hole, but I am within milimeters of it. The floor of the VA has been removed, and part of the lpc, because it screws in past the beggining of the floor, but it matters not, because its epoxied in there, so no leakage... I don't think I have air leaking from the vert ASA, because I'd hear or feel somthing... Ah Assault Block will hopefully be the answer... Looking at your diagram I get it now, the markers you did it to had different VA's, the imagine VA has one hole in it, not two.

Hob Hayward
05-01-2006, 02:46 PM
Saturday, April 29, 2006

Getting closer to my goal.
I got soem items by mail today.
An assault block and a new frame from ProToyz.
I also bought a drop forward with on/off.
Installed and never got to test it out.
I tried to buy parts from Game-On but they never delivered.
Bastards!
So now I have to wait for the macroline kit untill I can test the gear.

I do have some more milling/drilling to do.
The assault block doesn't fit as perfect as I want it to.
I will grind the sides and all edges to get the perfect shapes.
When THAT is done I will send it away to be anodized.
Great!!
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/MySpyder_2006-04-26_02.jpg

Updated on his blog.

MonkeyWiz
05-02-2006, 11:06 PM
Updated on his blog.
:D I failed to update in here. Sorry!
Wish I had more updates like some performed milling to report.
But there just isn't time right now.

May 20 I will be playing with my marker for the first time since I started modding it. We just have to wait and see if I love it afterwards or if I just will buy a new one... :p

Victa_Balla
05-03-2006, 02:31 AM
I'm always a fan of bumble bee yellow. I remember on the old boards someone had a sweet bumblebee vic.

nbishop66
05-03-2006, 12:37 PM
Druid, is it worth opening up the bottom of the CheckIt Assault block? Can it even be done? It looks like one hole flows to the gun and the other to the LPC. There looks like there is some metal dividing both sides. I'm running about 350 psi with my current setup on my Pilot ACS.

DH Titanium, CheckIt Assault Block, 32* Springs, 32* Magnaport Valve, Ergo Reg, and 68/3000.

Thanks Man,

druid
05-03-2006, 05:13 PM
I don't know. I know the assault block is a high-flow VA and it's bored from the LPC side that the 2 holes go to the same chamber...just like a standard VA with LPC. I bored out the Trinity which is basicly the same...so I'd assume yes.

Hob Hayward
05-13-2006, 02:31 PM
Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Mounted the last parts:
1 black macroline
2 90* macroline fittings
1 600 psi gauge
Soft main spring and medium valve spring
I ran it on 290 psi and got it to re-cock without problems
but I have no idea how 'hot' it shoots. (FPS)
I will get the chrono next week so I will test it thoroughly.
All I need now is a pretty littel feedneck...

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1292/1829/1600/MySpyder_2006-05-04_(03).jpg

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1292/1829/320/MySpyder_2006-05-04_%2801%29.jpg

Latest update

MonkeyWiz
05-15-2006, 01:23 PM
Latest update
I can really trust faithful Hob's to keep the update a jour.
It will be some time untill next upgrade.
I shall chrono and adjust everything this week, if I get my things.
When that is done I shall play, play and play. All summer: Play!

Then suddenly, when winter is uppon us I will send the battered thing away to be annodized. $60 is it worth... :D

Prospekt
05-16-2006, 02:47 PM
Ok I cant find my camera but i edited Otters pics so you can understand what I mean.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Alex_Deza/paintball/1hole.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Alex_Deza/paintball/2hole.jpg

I added the second hole to the bottom picture. But that is somewhat what ines looks like. So i drill those 2 holes with a 3/16 drill?

In the first picture, mines is the same but it seems the hole is a bit deeper in mines. Anyways I also drill that hole with a 3/16 drill.

If you guys can confirm that then I'll go ahead and do it. For the Valve body though, it says I need a vice to attack the valve to, so until I can borrow some1's vice I guess I'll have to hold on to that upgrade.

If you drill the other side you're going to be cutting into the threads for the LPC. That'll make it difficult for you to seal it and not even increase airflow (since the LPC screws in that far, the hole will be covered)>> But by now you've probably done it.

ooglieboogliebob
05-16-2006, 03:05 PM
... well really.. your not supposed to drill that far in anyways ... your supposed to measure it to where the o-ring stopps ... (probably a little more than half way ... ) thats what i did atleast ...

Hob Hayward
05-18-2006, 07:42 PM
Yeah, at least with newer VA's the old ones didn't work the same way. Or else otter's VA would be useless.

RollerDisco92
05-24-2006, 05:23 PM
I personly love the mod! I am an owner of a spyder victor II (not yet but soon to modified) . I really like the open bolt! How does it shoot compared to a formal spyder victor or spyder victor II?

MonkeyWiz
05-27-2006, 11:39 AM
It went to pieces.
The frame I got was not electric and it actually didn't fit the spyder.
The sear won't catch the striker...
I will send it back and I will demand a kind of refund.

I lost an entire day of playing thanx to this...

Hob Hayward
05-28-2006, 03:12 AM
Ah that really sucks... Going to try an get an e-frame then?

MonkeyWiz
05-28-2006, 04:35 AM
No, I don't think I will.
I will keep the original frame and polish it up.
Some good paint and finish would make it sweet.
I will also get down with some sanding on it to smooth the edges and such.
I already made the trigger a bit softer.

RollerDisco92
06-06-2006, 10:13 AM
that sucks about the shooting thing are you going to make it shoot well or just have it be cool looking? ither way is sweet

MonkeyWiz
06-08-2006, 12:07 PM
I pulled out the original frame and I will make that frame rock!
Actually it is working fine now, but it is butt ugly.

RollerDisco92
06-09-2006, 05:52 AM
That REALLY sucks, But at least it shoots well now! What is your next plan (if any) for your marker?

MonkeyWiz
06-10-2006, 02:51 AM
That REALLY sucks, But at least it shoots well now! What is your next plan (if any) for your marker?
My next course of action is to play with it. All summer, just play.
I might get a new bolt to create suction (Fenix bolt with three o-rings).
I should look for a clamping feedneck and I will fix up the frame so it looks good.
Then, maybe, when winter is upon me, I shall paint it grey.
Painting is only going to happen after I got ALL parts and if it works as I want it to.

MonkeyWiz
06-12-2006, 01:26 AM
Made som modding to the trigger.
Super light pull and not so damn curved anymore.
I tightened the screws in the drop too...

Seems as I won't get a Fenix bolt cause the owner wont sell it. He wanted it for himself.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y298/MonkeyWiz/PB/SpyderVictor/MySpyder_2006-06-12.jpg

paintbllkang
06-14-2006, 12:41 PM
nice gun

MonkeyWiz
06-14-2006, 11:43 PM
Not yet, but it will be when I'm done.
Thanx!

paintbllkang
06-16-2006, 10:12 AM
Not yet, but it will be when I'm done.
Thanx!


well that is true...but it is better than the stock victor that i have...ha